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#1
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The hood brace on my 125 broke. I know the right way to fix it would be to weld it, but I don’t want to burn the paint off the outside of the hood. Any other ideas what I can do? I thought about an epoxy like JB Weld, but I don’t think it would hold up too long.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#2
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I own a spot welder. Some of the better rental places will rent them. If you can rent one it would leave the smallest amount of damage.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#3
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Make a new one from a thicker gage mat'l
I have done it on several Cubs Use a spot weld cutter to remove what's left of the old one from the inside. |
#4
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Flex seal the sucker on, yeeeeee haaaaaa.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#5
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Bend a piece of thick siding or other sheetmetal to an "L" shape,, some piece of metal close to the thickness of the hood. If you can not find that, a thin piece of angle steel, with legs that are at least one inch can be substituted. you must have at least 4 square inches of area that will contact EACH part. Bend it until you have a good fit,, apply the JB Weld to the at least 8 square inches of contact area. I would apply it to all 4 surfaces, prior to assembly, to insure no spot remains "dry" After curing, that lap joint fix will be easily as strong as the previous tack welds. Large lap joints do very well at resisting vibration,, I have fixed many things that normally are considered "weld only" using the large surface area trick. |
#6
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#7
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Keep us informed what works I have a 122 with the same problem curious to see the results
![]() Best of luck on the repair.
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IH cub cadets 800x3,1000,1100,1200x2,1250DS,1450,1650DS, 71,122x2,123, 73x2,106,107,126x3,127,147x2,86x3,128,149, 169x2 ,Original, cadet 55, to name a few CCC machines 1282,1050,2072,1535,1440 |
#8
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#9
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I think that piece has completely fallen off my 122. :-)
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#10
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Its missing on my Dad's 100. Been thinking about bending a new one and epoxying it in place. We had to run some cosmetic grooves in some large stainless sheet metal strips at work. These were glued/epoxied in place in the entry of a hospital, some were even overhead. There are some rather high tech "glues" on the market these days. Maybe somewhere like McMaster carries such.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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