1200 Clutch Question

vr4Legacy · #1 05-16-2016, 10:36 AM

I finally got some time to work on my 1200. The clutch appears to have way too much play. I started to adjust the lever to alleviate it, but it seems like I am adjusting it way too much.

Here are a couple pics I snapped. Comparing this to the service manual it looks like the throw out bearing and spring spacer are there. The only thing missing is the teaser spring. I tightened the adjusting nut to remove most of the play and the clutch seems very tight. Also, I can't see the clutch releasing when I press it. Should I see the discs move apart?

The last picture is the play left when the plate starts to contact the throw out bearing. You can see how far I've adjusted it, it was in front of the worn threads.

Is the teaser spring integral, or does it just keep slack out of the pedal?

J-Mech · #2 05-16-2016, 12:23 PM

If it "seems" like your adjusting it too much..... back it off.

Clutch adjustment on these machines isn't rocket science. The pedal should disengage the clutch and apply the brake. As long as it's not so tight that the lever is touching the throw out, your good. As long as it disengages the clutch completely, it's good. Book explains how to adjust it if your still confused.

Teaser spring is to give the clutch a smoother engagement. Has nothing to do with the clutch pedal.

Should you see the plates move... well, the lever just releases spring pressure, it doesn't actually pull them apart, so... you may not see them move.

darkminion_17 · #3 05-16-2016, 01:02 PM

looks like you have it put together incorrectly.

It goes main spring,t.o. beaing,spacer cup,large end facing the motor,then the teaser spring.

vr4Legacy · #4 05-16-2016, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If it "seems" like your adjusting it too much..... back it off.

Clutch adjustment on these machines isn't rocket science. The pedal should disengage the clutch and apply the brake. As long as it's not so tight that the lever is touching the throw out, your good. As long as it disengages the clutch completely, it's good. Book explains how to adjust it if your still confused.

Teaser spring is to give the clutch a smoother engagement. Has nothing to do with the clutch pedal.

Should you see the plates move... well, the lever just releases spring pressure, it doesn't actually pull them apart, so... you may not see them move.

Thanks. There is still about 1/2" off play between the throwout bearing and the clutch fork/plate. It drove fine and seemed to disengage the clutch when I bought it, so I'm assuming it releases. Just wanted to make sure I shouldn't see it physically moving. Makes sense the way you explained it. Since it worked ok when I got it, maybe I'll back it off more for now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

looks like you have it put together incorrectly.

It goes main spring,t.o. beaing,spacer cup,large end facing the motor,then the teaser spring.

I didn't put anything together. I suppose the PO could have. Looking at the schematic (#5 doesn't apply to my S/N) is #7 spring spacer missing? Does the pressure plate go in front of (to the right on schematic) the roll pin? If so, it looks like the spacer is gone. If so, that would explain the play in the pedal.

Thanks again for the input!

darkminion_17 · #5 05-16-2016, 04:22 PM

It also looks like the po has the wrong clutch arm on it there should be no space between the arm and the bracket.

vr4Legacy · #6 05-16-2016, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

It also looks like the po has the wrong clutch arm on it there should be no space between the arm and the bracket.

Hmmm.

That would explain the crazy vibration I get too. It runs smooth when I have the clutch depressed. But once I release it, in gear or N, I can hear it shaking and vibrating. I just assumed the holes had worn on the arm, but looking at that picture, it does look like there's too much space.... That would explain why it's rubbing on the steering bolt too. Not sure if you can tell on the pic I attached, but the clutch arm/fork slightly rubs on the end of the steering bolt.

I also see sparks when I release the clutch, so something's not right in there. I'm going to price parts and at least replace the throw out bearing and get a new spacer and teaser spring. Depending on how much the rest costs, I may do a full replacement. I'll pull everything later this week and see what's going on with the fork.

bocephus1991 · #7 05-16-2016, 06:19 PM

Like Jon said, the clutch on these isn't rocket science. Like someone already said, that's the wrong arm. Maybe for a narrow frame? I've had mine apart several times. You have it adjusted way to tight. I've never cranked it down like that. Looks too like it had the wrong nut on there an the threads are all messed up now. I'd look at your 3pin driver too it may be cracked. Either way somethings not right no way you should have to adjust it that much.

bocephus1991 · #8 05-16-2016, 06:30 PM

Think you have a mix of parts. Is the 3pin driver, be solid piece of steel or does in have a thin piece in the center? If I was close by I'd look at it. Get us some more pictures. See if we can get it figured out.

twoton · #9 05-16-2016, 07:17 PM

vr4Legacy, Good chance you have a lot of wear in a lot of places that are all adding up to you having to over adjust that release arm to make it work. You're gonna have to go through every part to take out all of that slack. If the ball bushing in the 3 pin driver is worn, and chances are too the end of the drive shaft, it will vibrate/rattle when there is no load on it.

Bob95065 · #10 05-16-2016, 08:48 PM

I put a clutch in my 1000 this March. You can find the link here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=43135

I bought all the parts from sponsoring vendors found at the top of this page. I had terrible vibration noise when the clutch was out too. It engages very smoothly now and makes no noise. I had to replace the bracket, pin and lever.

My brother ran the tractor with a locked up throwouut bearing. It wore the shaft and left steps. I put a new T/O bearing on it so I could mow when I got the tractor back. The T/O bearing would hang up on the steps and cause the clutch to slip. Now I can dump the clutch in 3rd gear and spin the tires if I want to.

My suggestion is to spend the money and do it right the first time. I tried a band-aid fix to get it going and wound up doing it over. I am confident I'll get another 38 years out of the clutch the way it sits now. It wasn't cheap but it was worth it.

If you have any questions PM me.