Electrical Problems on a 129

Cub Cadet 123 · #1 07-02-2014, 02:41 PM

My nephew bought a 129 from me a while back. It ran fine before I sold it to him, in fact it was one of my best running cubs. He forced it to mow tall, wet grass and it didn't like that chore so much that he wore out the bushing on the throttle body. Well, it wasn't starting for him so he started using a drill bit to jump the solenoid to the point that it would no longer start. I put a brand new solenoid on it and it still didn't start. since then, I have changed out the following with no difference: ignition switch, amp meter, starter/generator, coil, condenser, regulator. I check all the grounds.....HELPPPPP!!!!!

Cub Cadet 123

J-Mech · #2 07-02-2014, 03:21 PM

Ummm..... did you test to see what was and wasn't getting power? Sounds like you replaced everything except the brake switch.....

Under edit: I was thinking, depending on SN# I think some of them had a PTO safety switch too.

Alvy · #3 07-02-2014, 05:37 PM

Yes there is brake switch and pto switch which interrupts the start circuit. Pto switch is buried in the top right portion of the fiberglass dash. You have a test light or meter? Ask questions before changing all those parts buddy, it can get expensive and frustrating as you're finding out

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22

TheSaturnV · #4 07-02-2014, 05:47 PM

^^^ Agreed, a multimeter is your friend.

Kratt · #5 07-02-2014, 06:51 PM

Try pulling back on the PTO handle while starting it. I have to do that on my 149. The tab doesn't quite push hard enough on the switch without pulling back on the handle.

dvogtvpe · #6 07-02-2014, 07:14 PM

there seams to be a trend lately were we spend allot of money instead of a little diagnostic time. most of the time on these old tractors all you need is a test light or a jumper wire and the diagram out of a manual.
while a multi meter is nice and
I use it every day. be careful when using it to check voltage. it takes no current to say 12v on a meter. I have a headlight with a couple jumper wires on it so I can load test the circuit.

J-Mech · #7 07-02-2014, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

I have a headlight with a couple jumper wires on it so I can load test the circuit.

I too have one of these handy "tools"!

dvogtvpe · #8 07-02-2014, 07:32 PM

I've seen guys change $1500 ECM's because their multi meter said the had 12v. they did. just couldn't carry any amp load.

gmbadgley · #9 07-02-2014, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

there seams to be a trend lately were we spend allot of money instead of a little diagnostic time. most of the time on these old tractors all you need is a test light or a jumper wire and the diagram out of a manual.
while a multi meter is nice and
I use it every day. be careful when using it to check voltage. it takes no current to say 12v on a meter. I have a headlight with a couple jumper wires on it so I can load test the circuit.

Make sure you use an OLD SCHOOL test light and not a LED light, they will show full power on a wire with only 1 strand attached.

Also, you did test the battery didn't you?

Greg

Cub Cadet 123 · #10 07-02-2014, 09:40 PM

Thanks fellas for all of the great suggestions. I was able to jump it at the S/G and it ran fine, so I know those parts are good. It does have a safety for the pto lever under the dash. I used a jumper on the safety switch (foot one). My test light lit for everything except for two terminals on the solenoid (small one) and lead to S/G and it did not light on the bottom terminal of the regulator. Should it light on these?

Thanks in advance of your help. Here's a cyber beer to show my appreciation:

....Believe me, it is greatly appreciated!

Cub Cadet 123