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Originally Posted by jbrewer
I'm going to save this list of really good ideas for my turn at rebuilding one of these. Thanks for posting them.
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Read this before you do.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
Just a couple of things that come to mind;
Make sure that you have a clean work area and that you keep everything clean and organized. Is the machine shop going to clean the block for you? If not you will have to clean it yourself before you start. And, using a tap, clean out all the threaded holes in the block.
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Machine shop better clean the block. They have to after boring it. Only a really bad shop wouldn't give you back a clean block. Most shops you have to tell them NOT to paint it too, or they will. That said, mine are usually pretty clean before I take it to them. They still will tank it after boring it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
Use an engine stand if you can.
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You don't need an engine stand for a K series. I don't even use a stand and I have at least 3 engine stands. Set it on a bench. It's not a big motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
Get a gallon bucket and put a couple of quarts of 30 weight in it. Dip all your moving parts in it before assembly.
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Don't do that. Just use an oil can. Dipping parts in oil gets it everywhere. No reason to make such a mess.
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Originally Posted by twoton
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That's in the service manual..... he better remember to do it. It's part of the steps of overhaul, just like setting the end play on the crank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
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These piston rings are small. You don't need that tool. You can use your hand. But whatever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
Clean up your timing marks and highlight them with a white or yellow paint pen. And remember, you can set the timing using the static method while the engine is on the stand or workbench. You might find this easier than after it's installed in the tractor.
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NOTE: You must be referring to the marks on the flywheel. Be specific, there are two sets of timing marks on the K series. The set that are internal, and the set that are external. Doesn't hurt to mark both, but you are talking about the ones on the flywheel. Painting them white is definitely a good idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
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You do not need to do that. It's is ridiculously unnecessary. The cam closes both valves before the piston is very far off the bottom of the compression stroke, and opens them again when it almost reaches the bottom of the power stroke. If you can't find a spot with your eye in 300 deg of crank travel, you're blind. Only thing you have to watch on this engine is that the exhaust valve isn't sitting on the ACR. If you set valve lash while the cam cover is off, and you should, this is easy.
You don't need a dial indicator to set anything on the K series. You can even set crank end play with a feeler gauge. Book tells you how.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
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Yep.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
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You should always run the same oil the engine is going to use normally to break it in. People who invented "break in oil" are just making money selling to people who don't know. It's a gimmick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton
Don’t rush it. Anything worth doing is worth doing twice if that what it takes to get it right.  |
Good advice here.
Sorry twoton. I like you man.... I really do. Just sometimes you go above and beyond, and it's too much. Not all the things you see other people do on this site are necessary, or good.
Here's my advice:
1.) READ the manual and FOLLOW it!
2.) Ask questions if you need help.