Camshaft end play

twoton · #1 08-20-2016, 07:17 PM

Reassembling a K321 AQS and need to get some shims to set the camshaft end play. Manual calls it out to be .005 - .010. I have .011+, not quite .012. Looking at the McMaster Carr site and was wondering if anyone could verify if these would be proper;

Spring Steel Round Shim, 0.005" Thick, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD (part # 90482A125)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=13t9pno

(Edit: See post #10 below)

J-Mech · #2 08-20-2016, 07:44 PM

Well, if they fit then they'll work. Why wouldn't they?

At .002" over I'm not sure I'd worry about it, but then again it may have a cam knock. I doubt it though.

olds45512 · #3 08-20-2016, 07:56 PM

Is that measurement with the original shim in it?

twoton · #4 08-20-2016, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Is that measurement with the original shim in it?

It is......

olds45512 · #5 08-20-2016, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton

It is......

Ok, I was just wondering. I'd order the shims and get it a little tighter, hate for you to go through all this work and have a slight knock.

twoton · #6 08-20-2016, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Why wouldn't they?

Just wondering if the 3/4" OD spring steel ones that I linked to would be a better choice over the plane carbon steel shims they also sell or should I just stick with the 1" OD Kohler shims.

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Ok, I was just wondering. I'd order the shims and get it a little tighter, hate for you to go through all this work and have a slight knock.

I'm gonna.

Thanks guys.

J-Mech · #7 08-20-2016, 09:38 PM

To be honest, I'm not sure it would matter. It's going to be running against a cast cam and a cast block, so either should work. I'd go with the harder ones.

athomas · #8 08-20-2016, 09:44 PM

They should work fine,also the 316 stainless shims would be another choice ,I have used similar shims.

mickb72 · #9 08-21-2016, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Ok, I was just wondering. I'd order the shims and get it a little tighter, hate for you to go through all this work and have a slight knock.

This is what i'd do too. I/ve been on the upper end and had a slight cam knock. Used balance gear shims can work also. Mike

twoton · #10 08-21-2016, 03:07 PM

Pulled the cam pin and shim out to verify size. Shim is actually 1/2" ID x 1" OD x .0096" thick. I guess 40 years of wear took a bit off it! Just ordered the OE ones;

.005" shim Kohler part # 275066-S

.01" shim Kohler part # 275067-S

Ordered them from here;

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/jac.../part/275066-s

Had to place an order with them anyway for a couple of RAG joints!

It should be noted:

“It is critical which end of the cam you shim. The helical cut gears put force on the cam pushing it in one direction”. (Towards the front of the engine).

From the Kohler Service manual, under camshaft installation, Part d.

“Before pushing rod through camshaft, slip one .005” washer (end play) between end of camshaft (opposite gear end) and block…… …..Check end play with feeler gauge… …add (or subtract) .005 and .010” washers as necessary to attain proper end play…”

As the mating surfaces of the end of the cam shaft, the thrust washer and the boss on the crankcase (front end) wear, the contact pattern between the camshaft and crankshaft mating gears is adversely affected. Shimming the cam back into spec’ at the proper end will re-establish this contact pattern. Shimming the wrong end of the cam will contribute to accelerated engine wear.

Also,

It would make some sense to measure the end play as part of the engine disassembly. This way you can order any shims as part of your rebuild package instead of waiting till reassembly which could result in a delay.

More camshaft stuff;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...649#post524649