149 hydro lever
 

Hello, I just recently purchased a 149 cub cadet. Looks wise it in great shape, mechanical wise it could use some work. First would be the forward reverse lever on the dash. I have tried to comprehend the manual that I found on this page but it just doesn't make sense. Mine has what looks like a clamp at the bottom of the shaft. Do I just tighten that up?

Also by the time I got it home I had quite leak under the rear diff on my trailer. I've sprayed and wiped everything down but can't seem to see where it's leaking from. Any ideas there? Maybe the hydro to.diff gasket? If so, can the hydro be removed through the tunnel to replace this gasket ? The manual appears that way, but what's the real world answer?

After a thorough cleaning, douse the suspect area with baby powder.
The leak will leave a trail in the powder and lead you right to the leak.

There was a serial number break in the transmission control lever linkage at
serial number 425,999.
Yours looks to be below that# and uses the parts below, in the upper LH corner inset.
Part #20 is a split plastic bushing that is tightened by the clamp when needed to cure loose control lever issues.
At least that is the way it's supposed to work.

Thanks for the parts list. I actually tighten the clamp bolt a little and it made it better.

As for the leak, I have heard about the powder trick but to get powder where it's leaking from I would almost need to turn the tractor upside down. I'll see what I can do though.

To my original question, can the hydro unit be pulled out from the top?

Borrow yer wifes' powder puff!!:bigthink:
An ear syringe works good as well

The pump can be removed thru the top but it's still a PITA either way.
Lots of stuff in the way

More than likely the leak is the cork gasket between the hydro and differential. it’s a common leak. I’ve done so many over the years and a long time ago I got 3/16s gasket material and make my own gasket instead of using the cork material

I know people have removed the pump though the tunnel, but I think it’s easier to just pull the whole rear out. You have to disconnect the driveshaft and hydraulic lines either way, then it’s only 6 more bolts and two linkages to just pull the whole rear. I tried pulling the one on my 1450 from the top once, from what I remember one of the bolts was nearly impossible to get a wrench on and have room to turn it.

^^ Agree it looks like a big job, but it really isn’t. Support the frame, roll the the whole thing backwards, then flip it up on a big block or milk crate. Easy to work on and oil stays in the diff.

If you have not inspected what the diff/fluid looks like, it would be a good time to remove the cover and do that.:beerchug: