Need a set of metal inserts for 1650
 

Hello,

I am in need for a set of 4 metal inserts for the iso mount bolts. they seem really pricey on cub store and was wondering if anyone had any spares.

Thanks,
nate

Hi,
There is a section of this forum just for wanted items. You will have much better luck there

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...splay.php?f=35

Also, there is a section for people that are selling stuff, so check there also since someone already may be selling what you are looking for.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...splay.php?f=34

Hi Nate
I make solid motor mounts and include hardware ( thick washer, grade 8 bolt and ny lock nut )
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...s/DSC00102.jpg

$47 shipped USPS Priority mail

Jeff

Jeff, how much does that make the tractor vibrate?? Mine vibrates badly after doing the cradle mod and purchased a set of "replacement" iso mounts a few years back. Ive seen some where there is a balancing weight that bolts to the crank shaft thats supposed to smooth out the vibration. However i cant ever get a black and white cut and dry answer on making a quiet line permanently quiet and vibration free

Grr...

You ever use that old 122 of Keiths?

It will run just like that... except it seems like all that tin work is noisy. No such thing as vibration free. It's a BIG single cylinder.

I deal with it even on the '82 series.

Nate I'd go solid mounts and do the cradle mod. And I've never heard or seen a quietline quiet or vibration free! They don't exist! Lol

All the earlier models were solid mounts. The only way any tractor is quiet and vibration free is to turn it off.

So is it cost savings or do the isolators not reduce vibration?

The isolators are a big pain in the rear. Overpriced, finicky, and unnecessary. No other models had them. So.... I don't know what you mean by "cost savings". It's cheaper to mount them solid. The rubber mounts and original cradle design ruined a lot of oil pans and drive lines. I have a whole stack of oil pans that either need rebuilt, or scraped that came from QL's. I wouldn't mount a motor in a QL any other way than solid. The only way a motor should be rubber mounted is when the engine and trans are bolted together.... in a car. Tractors are tractors. If you don't vibration, but a twin cylinder machine.

I think the rubber isolators do a good job of helping to eliminate vibration and noise in a Quietline.

Five years ago, I bought a 1250, with bad engine mounts. I used the factory replacement engine mounts, and am glad I did. There are several different theories out there for the installation of new Cub Cadet ISO mounts. One theory is that the new mounts should be tightened to 100 inch-pounds of torque. Another is that the original length bolts and lock nuts be used and they should onlt be tightened to show 1 1/2 - 2 threads beyond the locknut. I found the first theory to be rather snug, and the second theory to have bolts that could be turned in their hole. Both theories made a lot of vibration. After some research as to what others have found, I began tightenting the ISO mount bolts to attain the least amount of vibration. It took a lot of trial and error, tightening and loosening of the mount bolts, but I found a good spot for the least amount of vibration, and have left the mounts alone.

The recommended engine cradle modification is a very necessary part of the process. Having made the modification, and tightening the factory mounts to fit the tractor, I think my one-cylinder K-series does pretty well in the tractor. In my opinion, the rubber mounts do what they are intended to do-absorb and distribute the one cylinder engine vibration.