Electric rear lift?
 

:bash2:As the snow falls are increasing, lifting and chaining the front blade to be able to use the rear blade is getting old fast. I've been pondering installing an electric lift actuator in place of the lift arms on my sleeve hitch like my old Sears SS-12 had on the 3 point hitch. I would want the rear blade to have at least 6" of clearance with the front blade in the lowered position. I'll have to lift the front blade to measure how far I need to lower the rear blade to contact the ground. I would need the measurements of the bottom (u) portion of the sleeve hitch to ensure I get a long enough actuator, but not too long an actuator, correct? EXAMPLE- an actuator with 3" of travel on the hitch may give me the 6" of lift on the blade.

This is what I did for a rear lift.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...=20585&page=15

Post #148 shows the mounts.

You could also remove the whole rear lift bracket (the one that mounts to the seat frame) and run an actuator from there (run the pin through the mounting hole in the actuator) and bolt the other end where the lift straps attach to the briny adapter.

Is it a cat 0 3 point or IH lift? If it is the IH lift, I agree with Sam and vartz. A winch or actuator from the top hitch mount to the sleeve hitch is easier. If it is a cat 0, you would need two actuators? One for each lift arm. When you chain up the front blade do you disconnect the lift rod? If not, can you just reach down and turn the pacman wheel to keep the blade up instead?

Bill

No, it's the IH lift. I think I'm going back to mounting a 3rd hydraulic valve on the fender and using a 149 or 1450 lift cylinder in place of the lift arms. I have the valve already.

I have seen pictures of Cubs with a separate lift cylinder for the three point. Keep in mind that it has got to float.

Thanks Sam. I hadn't thought about that.