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-   -   Static Timing 14 hp K series (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21968)

sawdustdad 01-04-2013 08:36 AM

Static Timing 14 hp K series
 
I found the static timing procedure and used it successfully on my 108, but the 149 does not have a "sight hole" in the shroud and I do not see the same "S" and "T" marks on the flywheel. Is there a different static timing method for these engines?

jmroy 01-04-2013 09:08 AM

On my k321 the sight hole is on the bearing plate, and therefore the timing marks are on the back of the flywheel.

R Bedell 01-04-2013 09:22 AM

I am not aware that Kohler made an exception for the K321 for Cub Cadet. The site hole (#4) is on the RH side of the engine and the S & T markings are stamped into the flywheel.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...TimingHole.jpg

wshytle 01-04-2013 01:15 PM

K321 site hole
 
The site hole is located roughly where the #1 is pointing in Mr. Bedells post. The timing marks are on the engine side of the flywheel and not the same as a K301 or K241.

sawdustdad 01-04-2013 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell (Post 167974)
I am not aware that Kohler made an exception for the K321 for Cub Cadet. The site hole (#4) is on the RH side of the engine and the S & T markings are stamped into the flywheel.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...TimingHole.jpg

This is exactly what my 108 looks like. The 149 does not have the same hole. As jmroy has stated, I'll look at the back of the flywheel. I did notice a notch in the bearing plate, just didn't notice any marks on the flywheel.

Matt G. 01-04-2013 03:55 PM

I'm pretty sure that notch in the bearing plate is where the timing marks will appear on that engine. You'll probably have to clean some rust off the flywheel to make the more visible.

sawdustdad 01-04-2013 10:41 PM

I have the hole at position #1 as shown in the picture. The only mark on the flywheel is a spot of yellow paint at what I believe is the correct position--just before TDC. To get the points to open at this point, the gap is much larger than 20 mils, so I've reduced the gap to closer to .020 and the points open closer to TDC. I'm hoping this will work OK. The engine ran fine before disassembly, with the points gapped about .020, so I think this will work OK. We'll see.

Matt G. 01-04-2013 11:12 PM

There are two marks there. 20 degrees before TDC is where the "S" mark is, and that's quite a ways away from the "T" mark. If you can't see two marks, you haven't cleaned off enough rust yet.

sawdustdad 01-05-2013 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G. (Post 168097)
There are two marks there. 20 degrees before TDC is where the "S" mark is, and that's quite a ways away from the "T" mark. If you can't see two marks, you haven't cleaned off enough rust yet.

I'll look again, but I don't think there are any marks. Perhaps I don't have an original flywheel? Not sure. Thanks for the help.

Matt G. 01-05-2013 11:09 AM

They would have to be on a replacement flywheel, too...how would you time the engine without them? They may be faint, but they are there.

You may find it worthwhile to pull the engine and remove the flywheel shroud and flywheel so you can find them and clean them up. Also a good time to clean all the mouse nests out of the cooling fins.


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