Static Timing 14 hp K series

sawdustdad · #1 01-04-2013, 08:36 AM

I found the static timing procedure and used it successfully on my 108, but the 149 does not have a "sight hole" in the shroud and I do not see the same "S" and "T" marks on the flywheel. Is there a different static timing method for these engines?

jmroy · #2 01-04-2013, 09:08 AM

On my k321 the sight hole is on the bearing plate, and therefore the timing marks are on the back of the flywheel.

R Bedell · #3 01-04-2013, 09:22 AM

I am not aware that Kohler made an exception for the K321 for Cub Cadet. The site hole (#4) is on the RH side of the engine and the S & T markings are stamped into the flywheel.

wshytle · #4 01-04-2013, 01:15 PM

The site hole is located roughly where the #1 is pointing in Mr. Bedells post. The timing marks are on the engine side of the flywheel and not the same as a K301 or K241.

sawdustdad · #5 01-04-2013, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell

I am not aware that Kohler made an exception for the K321 for Cub Cadet. The site hole (#4) is on the RH side of the engine and the S & T markings are stamped into the flywheel.

This is exactly what my 108 looks like. The 149 does not have the same hole. As jmroy has stated, I'll look at the back of the flywheel. I did notice a notch in the bearing plate, just didn't notice any marks on the flywheel.

Matt G. · #6 01-04-2013, 03:55 PM

I'm pretty sure that notch in the bearing plate is where the timing marks will appear on that engine. You'll probably have to clean some rust off the flywheel to make the more visible.

sawdustdad · #7 01-04-2013, 10:41 PM

I have the hole at position #1 as shown in the picture. The only mark on the flywheel is a spot of yellow paint at what I believe is the correct position--just before TDC. To get the points to open at this point, the gap is much larger than 20 mils, so I've reduced the gap to closer to .020 and the points open closer to TDC. I'm hoping this will work OK. The engine ran fine before disassembly, with the points gapped about .020, so I think this will work OK. We'll see.

Matt G. · #8 01-04-2013, 11:12 PM

There are two marks there. 20 degrees before TDC is where the "S" mark is, and that's quite a ways away from the "T" mark. If you can't see two marks, you haven't cleaned off enough rust yet.

sawdustdad · #9 01-05-2013, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

There are two marks there. 20 degrees before TDC is where the "S" mark is, and that's quite a ways away from the "T" mark. If you can't see two marks, you haven't cleaned off enough rust yet.

I'll look again, but I don't think there are any marks. Perhaps I don't have an original flywheel? Not sure. Thanks for the help.

Matt G. · #10 01-05-2013, 11:09 AM

They would have to be on a replacement flywheel, too...how would you time the engine without them? They may be faint, but they are there.

You may find it worthwhile to pull the engine and remove the flywheel shroud and flywheel so you can find them and clean them up. Also a good time to clean all the mouse nests out of the cooling fins.