129 flexible coupling replacement
 

Soak your pin with a good penetrating oil. Then soak it some more. Use a pin punch and hit it a little more that lightly. You don't want to hit it like you are going to drive it out. Hit it so that you set up a vibration so to speak. Get a kind of rhythm, like a blacksmith working a horse shoe. Don't beat it. let the weight of the hammer do the work. That should work.

Agree on penetrating oil, PB Blaster will do, also a small propane torch to heat the pin will do wonders if soaking in PB Blaster don't break it loose.

It also helps to have one of these....
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...olPinPunch.jpg

Hey.. that's nice! I like the tit on the end to help keep it in place. I see by the other end it has seen some use. Is that a special order tool? Or should I go on a mission to hunt one up?

RE: Spirol Pins and Pin Punches: The "tit" on the end is not to keep it lined up...it's purpose to cause the spirol pin to contract away from the walls of the hole and thus easier to remove.

Roll a piece of paper and pull the inside out of one end...and watch how the outside gets smaller...That's basically what's hapening to the splirol pins when the punch with the "tit" is used...

Myron B

Sears sells a set of roll pinpunches for $20.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s+%26+Pry+Bars

Yes I have that set, makes all the difference in the world. Do the job right. As Myron states the force is exerted to the center of the pin thus relieving pressure from the external portion of the pin.

Once mushroomed you can use an angle grinder and cutting wheel to cut off the mushoomed portion and try again. if the other end is clean tap from the other direction but with my luck the other end will be damaged too.





Scott

What's next??????
 

Taking everyone's suggestions, for which I am thankful, I bought some pb Blaster, put it on, used my shiny new Sears spirol pin extractor and after a few minutes the pin was out. Unfortunately even when I move the now free coupling back, there still is insufficient room to get the new flex coupling over the end of the drive shaft. Do I have to take the pin out from the engine end too? Do I have to remove the shaft?

I don't see an icon for teeth gnashing or vulgar language

Bombur

bombur,
Make sure that the pin at the engine end of the drive shaft is in it's proper place and not in a worn out area that prevents it from moving.

129 flexible coupling replacement
 

Nice catch. I removed the front shaft coupler off the engine and found the pin to be sheared, but enough of the stump was left to keep the shaft turning under load. The cooling air screen was 80 clogged with science project as well. Are pins available locally or are they an IH special blend.
Should this ongoing saga be off line?

You'll need to get that from an IH or Cub Cadet dealership.

It's getting worse. The rear end of the drive rod has worn a side street into the rear coupling so now I have to replace both, I have no idea where to find this stuff. The worn coupling explains how this fiasco started: a wobbly drive rod.

The forum sponsors will have what you need, but see if you have a Cub Cadet dealer near you. We need to keep them in business, too.

If you have a friend handy with a lathe you might get the coupling bored, and bushed/sleeved. Can you post a pic of how bad it is ? If you have problems finding one, and the part is not badly worn I might can help you out, however if you can find a good used one, or a new one is not to expensive it would be easier to replace.

Clint