U joint upgrade?
 

I am sure I found a link to this off this web site, but I am not having any luck finding it at the moment. :BangPC: The link I am looking for was to were someone upgraded the rear drive shaft by removing the original rag joint and couplers and installing a couple of yokes and a greaseable u joint in its place. Thought I might look into this once I tear into the 149 that is going to get completely rebuilt.

Is there any type of upgrade a person could do at the front of the drive shaft where it couples to the motor? Thanks for any info you can shoot my way!

Jeff

I thought about doing that. Figured two u-joints, one at engine and one at pump end.


Then decided against it. I'm not in love with the sytem, but it lasted 37 yeras. I won't be worried about repairing it again 37 years from now.



Edit to add, sorry I can't help you with the link.

Is this what you are looking for?

http://cubfaq.com/davek.html

Jeff (teet)

If it were mine, I'd use all of the rag joint stuff from a QL or 82 series, with two rubber discs on each end. That will eliminate the 1x9 front coupler that can be potentially troublesome. If you use two rubber discs on each end and all new parts in the driveline, it will last a very long time. JD used U-joints on some of their shaft-drive tractors, and from what I've heard, they don't last very long. The rubber discs do a good job of absorbing the torque fluctuations from the single cylinder engine so they don't get transmitted to the rest of the drivetrain. I've had a few 82 series tractors with 1000+ hours and original flex discs in them yet.

I was considering ujoint mod for the diesel but decided against it after reading several post. To me it wouldn't be any benefit considering the time and money it would cost. I just put a new coupling and flex discs on the drivetrain of the diesel and it is awesome smooth now.

That is one big big u-joint !!

Yes that was it thanks!

I am not familar with the 82 series couplers, will look in to it and see what I think.

I have used this style Boston coupling about 2 years, putting on about 250 hours with no wear.
I have used this type of coupling in many things over the last 45 years.
and I like it over the rag joint,as it runs dead true and still has a little flex/cushion.

It also it is a breeze to remove the driveshaft, having only to loosen the set screw and slide the coupling half forward.
My rag joint was still good on the front so I havent replaced that one yet.

Who makes that coupling George? Interesting !

Nice Filter traitor man!!! (Kidding):biggrin2:

The set screws are the only thing holding them on? Do the set screws engage the holes in the shafts where the spirol pins used to be? That would be better, would not want to trust the set screws alone to keep the drive shaft spinning.

The Name brand is BOSTON model FC-15 -- been in business forever.
I use the coiled pin @ the pump, drilling the coupling and eliminating the set screw.
When I built a new driveshaft to replace the worn one,
I milled a keyway in the shaft for the front half of the Boston coupling.
The set screw merely keeps the coupling secured fore/aft
The Boston coupling is a little pricy if purchased new.
Ebay is your friend here.
It is basically a industrial coupling, and I had a few assorted ones on hand so it was a freebee for me.
My rag adaptor that goes on the pump was wallowed as was the flex disc from PO over tightening.
as far as the John Deere filter, it is a quality filter available very close to home and a cost savings.
Since they are the largest longest in business ag company in the world, I trust their parts.
I bleed IH Red, Persian Orange, JD green and Massey Red on this farm.