105 hydro, Won't Go?
 

Hello OCC group,
I purchased a 105 on ebay for cheep so I do not expect this thing to work.
BUT, it would be nice nto see if I can get it to go.
Things I have done.
1.Changed oil in the 10HP Kohler engine.
2.Rebuilt carb.
3.Topped off Hydro unit.
The engine starts really good and runs well.
Things I know.
The lever was down and the catch was applied on the RH side by the seat.
The mower was pushed by hand onto my van and pushed by hand into the yard.
After geting it running and discovering that the hydro won't go I started the engine and pushed the hydro lever forward. That made it real easy to push under the carport. It was like it was trying to pull itself????? It was easy to back up too if I moved the leaver backwards while the engine was running.
What do you think? is the hydro "TOAST" or maybe something simple?
Again this is my First Hydro Cub Cadet. It's a 105.
:help:

The VERY FIRST thing I would check is to see if the Hydro Release valves are stuck down. If they are, pull them out, clean them up get the little plungers to move freely, then put them back in.

If the valves are not stuck down, then make sure the input shaft (the little nub on the front of the transmission itself) is turning when the engine is running. If it isn't, then the spiral pin in the coupler is broken. Be careful when checking this, INJURY or DEATH could occur.

If it is the hydro release valves, be careful letting it run with the lever in forward or reverse. If those valves finally pop back out the tractor will just take off on it's on. I was working on a 127 this spring that wouldn't move, so I went into the garage to grab a couple tools and heard the motor getting quieter. I look out and the 127 valves popped free and it went for a spin on it's own. Worse would be if you were around it and they pop free. Just a heads up :ThumbsUp:

Hey Yosemite Sam,
The valve you talk about???
Can I get to it by removing the seat and fenders?

OOOOHHHH!!!!!!
Not good kanders!!!!!!
I had my head under the rear wheels and was moving the lever back and forth..... Ahhhh...... there might have been two pops????:bash2:
That is GREAT advise~~~!!!!!

not to butt in but you will need to remove fenders and seat just to get to see the valves, the lever on the side has a small flaper spring that depresses the top of the valves. that is unless the PO did not replace it with self unloading valves.

once the seat and fenders are off you should be able to start the tractor and see if the tops of the valves have poped up, for saftey you may want to have the tractor rears up on jack stands incase it suddenly jumps into gear.

Hello bsyphrit,
You are not butting...
I will take any help I can get...... Especially if it saves me time, money, or trouble!!!!!

Jack-stands??? OK I will try that...

Thanks!

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf
i have a 125 which is the 12 hp versionof yours, above id the manual you should check if you are unsure, you may have to split the tractor to get to the valves. when in dought read tthe manual and ask for advise

I feel pretty stupid, for some reason I can not remember if you can see them from the top on a 105/125 series or not. It's only been a couple of years since I had a 125 apart. I think you can see them but I don't think you can get them out from the top.

I may be wrong about the whole thing...

I just had one apart last week. In order to get the valves out and work on them you have to split the tractor. This is where the wide frame(WF) guys think they have it better than us. PB blaster works wonders on the buttons.
Good luck and send pictures.

Greg K.

Hello Loghouse,
I just read through the manual that bsyphrit posted.
Yep! Looks like I would have to split this tractor to get it going.
I still have to go back and read through the "SPLIT" process in section 2-34.
Anybody wanna buy a nice running 105 that doesnt move???? ;)

Don't be discouraged so soon.

Pulling the transaxle out isn't all that hard, and the valves will usually free-up with a little work.

On the bright side, while you have the it out, you can clean everything and repair the trunnion, after you put it back in, you should be good for a LONG time.

After you get it running AND moving, you may just like it. Hydros are great for mowing and pushing snow.

I too was worried about splitting my 122 but it's really easy. The only part I don't like about it is messing with the fenders and seat pan. Other then that it's pretty easy. Trust me once you do it once you'll be able to knock it out in no time once you do it once.

Thanks for help guys-gals....
I was kidding about selling.....
I will take my camera and post some photos of my progress...
Later...

If I'm not mistaken you don't have to pull the fenders/seat support and other "sheet metal" parts from a 125 to get the transaxle out, because there is no shifter to take out.

The last 125 I picked up (about 2-1/2 years ago) ran very well. I pulled the engine, transaxle, seat, fenders, steering column and forward reverse mechanism... (Didn't take the hood, grill shell or dash tower off). I pressure washed 40 years worth of "stuff" off of the trans/rear end, engine, and out of the frame, fixed the trunnion, repaired the drive hub, replaced the pin in the drive shaft, rebuilt the steering column, changed fluids and filter and cleaned the rear end out, cleaned up and adjusted the tension on the forward/reverse mechanism, put it all back together, loaded the tires and put chains on, all in a 3 day weekend. (actually I think I loaded the tires and put the chains on the following day) All total I had about another $100.00 in the tractor and it's been running great ever since.

Anyway, the point is, if you're going to use it as a "worker" it's SO much easier (and faster) to repair the little hard to get to annoying things, if you take it apart in big chunks, and wash everything first, make the repairs, then bolt the big parts back on. You can even change points and adjust the timing with the engine out, saving yourself a headache and a ton of time. As far as "workers" go, I don't think I'll ever "fart around" nickel and dimeing another one. With all the resources here, it isn't hard (even for a beginner) to find out what kinds of repairs you are likely to run into and what parts you're going to need so you can get them together in advance. Keep in mind that there may still be other issues like; tie rod ends, carb. rebuild, cleaning out the fuel tank... that will need to be done later, but those things are basic and easy and can be done quickly enough with little aggravation. IMHO, if you do the "hard to get to" stuff at one time, the other things can be done "an hour at a time" and your tractor isn't "down" for days at a time, while you lay underneath it reaching up into a greasy, dirty hole.

Less time messing around with one means a LOT more seat time and a lot more fun.

It's also MUCH easier to crawl around underneath a clean NF tractor to disconnect the brake and hydro linkage than under a dirty tractor. Leave the driveshaft connected to the rear and pull it out with the trans; that way you don't have to mess with reaching the bolts for the rear coupler under the tractor.

Pardon me if I am pointing out the obvious, but after reading what I quote here, I have to ask, did you release the catch? The catch should be released for the tractor to move.

Hello Flatbedford,
Yes I did release the lever.
I am curious though, once released there is no resistance and the lever lays at about 5 O'clock.
Should the lever have spring tension to stay at 3 O'clock or just be kinda floppy?
GREAT Question Flatbedford!!!!!

Don't be intimidated about working on it, not long ago I was intimidated about swapping engines but I did it and now I can't be stopped. With the help on this site and just digging in you will build confidence in your ability in no time. Yes, you may sit there and stare at it for an hour or so and that is OK, but once you have studied up on what you need to do just go for it. You'll be glad you did. I know so much more than I did a year ago, but still have many years of learning to be like some of these guys here and they will not let you down.

Perfectly said... I've leaned more from this site and just doing it in the past 5 months than I have in the past however many years of owning a cub and knowing very very little about them.

Hello DX3
Hello Cub149
Thank you for the encouragement.< I need spell check While I am far from a mechanic, I am very good with my hands.
I have restored a few cars and worked on more than I can count.
I guess before I dig into this 105 very deep I need to ask another question.
I do not have any implements to go with my 105.
What deck does this tractor use and are they hard to find?I already have a dedicated tractor to pull my lawn cart around.
I get GREAT satisfaction from making something old work again.
I love OLD mowers and would not give a penny for anything made past 1980 or so. The only exception is I like the looks of the Cyclops style Cub.
I may get one of those someday