Cub cadet 784 ignition problem
 

First off hello everyone and thanks for adding me to the forum. I just recently got 2 new to me cubs one is the 782/784 and a parts tractor 680 I’m having problems with the 784 ignition system, I have power to the coil when the ignition switch is in the on and on with lights position but when I put the switch in the start position it looses power to the coil but does turn over. It will sometimes start when I let off of the start position only bc the engine is still turning enough to get a last minute spark for the point then to the coil. What could be causing this? It’s frustrating reverse relay?

Here’s a picture of them the 680 is rough well they both look rough I guess lol

First, welcome to OCC.....:Welcome2:

The starting issue sounds like a bad 725-3021 Ignition Switch.

:ThumbsUp:

Welcome and thanks for the pick's
We have seen rougher. :beerchug:
Check/replace the the ign switch as Roland suggests.
The plug on the back of the switch is known for problems as is the switch itself, especially when they are exposed to the weather as your pix's would indicate.
What you will find is the male spades on the switch corrode, reducing the conductivity, producing heat and most times melting the plug, mostly the one from the battery.
sometimes wiggling the plug produces a temporary "fix" only to occur again at usually an inopportune time.
Also one finds the spades on the switch are loose on the attaching rivets.
Other times they are plum rotted off, or so corroded they break off easily.
Bottom line, replace the switch with the correct one AND the female terminal ends/plug.--- delphi-packard GM 56 series
Example: ebay listing # 382231331196
There are also some that sell the plug on a pigtail with terminals attached to wires.
Have fun!

I agree that the switch is the obvious problem, but nothing was mentioned about the 680 having start problems and both tractors take the same switch, so isn't the logical thing to do is swap the switch from the 680 into the 782 and verify a bad switch.

Also, I don't believe the 782 is equipped with a "frustrating reverse relay".

That would depend on the Generation of the Wiring Diagram used.

While a viable idea, sometimes in that old of machines, disturbing the wiring harness and or plugs, one winds up having to replace components in both machines because of degradation/frailty of components.
There are 2 wiring configurations, depending if it is a Ih built or CCC/mtd built.
The latter has the reverse relay.
Add to that if a magnum happens to be swapped in, there is a modification to the wiring with a relay added or a different ign switch.
(Prolly not the case in this situation as OP mentions it has an ign. coil) :bigthink:
I'm betting the ign switch internally, has lost its contact caused by the internal sliding contacts erosion.
Only un crimping the terminal board from the switch body would reveal that.
Blaw Blaw Blaw I'm too long winded:BlahBlah:

I am thinking it is the wrong ignition switch I’m going to pick one up today that is the right one

The 680 is a parts tractor and the ignition switch was never in it when I got it, I put a new “correct” ignition switch in the 782 and still am having the same problem but I did make head way it now shows it’s charging on the amp meter. Could someone point me to a wiring diagram for the ignition switch? And yes it does have the reverse relay.

This might be it.....
https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/u...737_624%29.pdf

In order for the 782 to roll over and start, these need to be accomplished. This is in consideration, that it is wired correctly and functioning properly, as well as the parts:

* PTO Switch needs to be off
* Must be sitting in the seat
* The Hydro Lever needs to be in the Neutral position
* The LH Brake pedal must be depressed

If that is all done, then it is on the Plan B.

AS A TEST............. You can run a Jumper Wire from the Battery Positive (+) terminal to the (+) of the Ignition Coil. See if this starts the motor.

Thanks Ik from this diagram my white and orange need swapped see in the picture the yellow is supposed to be the orange

:HeadScratch: :Huh:

The tractor needs to be wired correctly.

That would explain why you had no Ignition power while in the cranking position.
possibly someone in the past did some changes to the wiring??
If that is so, possibly your ignition switch is not faulty and would be a good spare.
We made the assumption that your wiring was correct when recommendations were made for a new switch.
Do lets us know what your outcome is as it helps others. :beerchug:

Yes I understand that I’m searching for the correct wiring

I’m going to head out and swap those wires here in alittle bit I’ll let you know if that fixes my problem, the old switch looks nothing like the new one on the back so I think the old switch is for something with a mag and not battery ignition

:Huh:

You posted a link to the correct Wiring Diagram in Post #7.

ok, seems some confusion here.
The correct wiring diagram has been posted.
Test the new switch:
Insure that the new switch does indeed make the connections to the correct terminals as the wiring diagram shows when turned to the various positions.
Make these tests with the ign plug disconnected, as it would not be the first time the wrong switch had been obtained in the right number box.
If it checks out correctly, them move on to making sure the various wires do indeed go to the components that the color in the diagram indicates they go to.
If that checks out, but the wire colors/with connectors are not properly installed into the ign. plug location,
slide the female connectors out of the plug and install them into the correct place in the plug so they are connected to the correct male spade on the switch when the
complete connector is installed on the switch.---
Clear as mud?

Maybe this will dirty the water some more. That harness looks pretty clean in picture. Is it possible the PO changed it? Perhaps with wrong harness, or moved wires in harness?

Coop,
We went to the same skool of experience,
I thought those colors looked not to be faded as most I've come across.
But like all things now, nothing amazes me any more.
Hopefully, systematic checking will uncover the problem, or at least eliminate
possibilities.
The more info the poster can present the easier it is.
I'm still wondering what he meant when he posted that the new switch looked nothing like the old one :bigthink: