New to me 149
 

Figured I would just start my own thread since I had a few questions as well. Just picked up a 149 and based on the serial number looks like April 1972. I have a few things to fix such as lights blew a fuse. I want to rewire the whole thing actually to freshen it up. It came with a 44'' deck which I will use come spring time to cut grass. I'm going to change oil and rebuild the carburetor and put a new air filter on.

Now my question. I was reading up on doing a static timing but can't seem to find a sight hole. Engine is a K321A, Spec. No. 60166c. There is no sight hole on either side of engine on the flywheel shroud. I was reading on another forum that most are below the S/G and sometimes they are on the carb side but I can't find one. Also read another guy has a sight hole on the front. Below the S/G on bearing plate is Serial No. 14078150 and it appears to be a raised nib like a timing reference marker but no hole to see the flywheel.

Any help would be appreciated.

Welcome and congrats on your 149 :beerchug:

As far as the wiring, I highly suggest purchasing from Mlamar
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=34457

Very affordable and every single connection is labeled.

Jeff

I’ve contacted mlamar via email already. Waiting a response.

As far as the timing goes. In this link my plate looks exactly like this below the S/G with the timing mark just no hole as in post #7. The following reply in post #8 said he drilled a hole.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=7750

Welcome to OCC,, NICE 149!! :bigthink:

The BEST way to time the K321 is with a feeler gauge,, simply adjust the points,,

Messing with trying to "time" the ignition is something you delve into if the feeler gauge does not give you perfection.

I have always had 100% success with simply setting the gap of the points,,

The timing has a large tolerance,, so the gap setting is hard to beat,

KISS,, as they say about keeping it simple,,, :biggrin2:

:Welcome2:

:GoodLuck:

The hole is in the rear bearing plate and may or may not have a snap in plug installed.
If not, I would install one as mice like to move into that area.

By all means static time the engine if it is on the bench. Piece of cake at that stage and you will not be disappointed.

You will have to remove the S/G to access the hole in the bearing plate.
This is the plate from my 149 w/original engine and I am cleaning the flywheel where the marks are.
There will be an "SP" or an "S" and that is what you are looking for.
Mine had only a "T" and an "S", no "OC"
From the black paint, it looks like your engine is a replacement so all bets are off in that case.

My engine has the same exact timing mark in the same spot below the S/G as your picture you posted, but there is no hole. The link I posted before had another member with the same issue of a timing mark on the bearing plate but no hole. I'll keep digging around but almost 99% sure mine also does not have a hole.

As far as the paint I'm unsure. The previous owner did not do anything to it because he only had it for a year and it sat. It looks like someone repainted a bunch of stuff and the engine they just spray painted black so it could be original or could be a replacement. First thing I noticed was the air cleaner cover still had painters tape covering the service sticker from when they painted it. The engine and air cleaner cover are yellow underneath so maybe the original?

One good treason to pull the engine is to do general inspection and house cleaning.
You may just find a surprise pkg. like this under the housing & tins.

Same here on setting the points

I might end up just pulling the motor to go over things a little better. I need to build myself a small work bench first in the garage.

If it’s a newer engine maybe the timing hole is on the left side of the blower housing like on an AQS engine.

I've looked everywhere on the blower housing(left and right side) and cannot find a hole. I'm thinking I might just pull the engine anyway. I want to fix it up for Spring time so I have plenty of time to slowly tinker with it. With the engine out it will be easier and I can work on a few other things easier.

I finally got around to installing the mule drive and the deck. I believe it is the incorrect deck. Just looking for confirmation from someone. The deck is a 44A which from a quick search came on the QL series correct? So it has the offset center pulley. I need a 44c deck for my 149?

When I installed the deck the center pulley hits the mule drive so I can't even lift the deck. I tried posting pictures but it keeps giving me an error.

Well after talking to a local guy it looks like my mule drive is for a 38/42” deck. He will either trade me decks or mule drives. Should I keep the 44A deck or go to a 42”? Which one cuts better?

A pic of my mule drive. After doing more research I do have the wrong setup. Guess I either find a 38/42” deck or find the correct mule drive for my 44a.

I met up with a guy and swapped mule drives for the correct one for my 44a deck. Everything is all good now except it sounds like I have a spindle bearing going bad. Pulled mine apart and I have the water pump style ST-745. I can get the newer aluminum housing style for $30/pc local. What is your guys opinion? Should I go to the newer style aluminum housing with replaceable bearings or replace with the original ST-745 bearings which I will grease regularly and probably get 20+ years out of them?

Also I’m having issues sending private messages. Type it out and send but the message never goes to my sent folder.

Personally, I am not familiar with a "newer style aluminum housing spindle" that would fit an older Cub deck. Can you post a picture or a part number??

I’ve been reading a few posts on this forum of guys who swap in the spindles off a 50c deck.