Small pin removal frustrations
 

well tractor is almost totally apart, but those dam small pins (spiral and roll) just wont move. I have a (cheap) pin punch set and PB Blaster penetrant. Also, have not used my ox-acetylene torch yet but that's coming!

Trying to pull the driveshaft coupler at the transmission, the clutch-brake pedal cross over shaft pin, and the front axle pin.

suggestions welcome but it looks like may be time for some real heat... if I heat the end of that driveshaft the coupler is loose so I dont think it will overheat into the transmission input shaft, and that needs a new seal anyway...

if heating doesnt work and the pins get mangled then what? they are too hard to drill out supposedly. :bash2:

The pins look flush to the surface. Support and a 3LB hammer

how do I support it? wood? and does torch heat ever help?

Agreed.. support it and whack it! I use my air hammer with a bit I made specifically for the pins.:beerchug:

Cut a wood block for support? As to the air hammer, I HAD one but IIRC it was a cheapo HF one and I may have tossed it for being weak. may look on ebay for a used snap-on or IR one and do it right.

As to HF, I was an HF snob but the pic of my engine hanging over the cub includes, a HF chainfall, HF alum jack, HF impact gun (which I am VERY impressed with that one!), and who knows what else... I guess no more chit-talkin HF for me!

Do not use heat on the coupling/shaft!!
You will ruin the heat treatment.
Support it with a jack or piece of metal on concrete and whack the pin punch with a B.F.hammer, sometimes a person can hold the pin punch with a pair of vice grips if they are afraid of hitting their hand/fingers.:beerchug:
If the coiled pin is mushroomed, hit it from the other end or grind it flush.
You will not get it out if it has a mushroomed head.
As mentioned an air hammer works well,
but still solidly support the shaft, as it makes
the pin come out easier.

There’s a small chance that the coupler to trans has spun and the pin will never come out if holes are mis aligned. Like I said small chance but worth taking a couple pipe wrenches first to try to move coupler/driveshaft separately.

Get some good pin punches with locating nub on them and good advice to drive or beat pins flush first, support, etc.

I’ve beat shafts out breaking roll pins as last resort then you have 3 separate pieces to knock out BUT last resort. Use brass punch in this case.

Alvy,
over the years, I have seen the broken pin situation more than rarely,
one example is on a QA snow thrower drive sprocket.:angry:

A couple years ago I had a hell of a time getting the pin out of the drive shaft of one of the 102s. Ended up using one of those punches with the ball end (no clue what they are called) with a cheap Harbor Freight are chisel. Used a coupling nut that the punch would fit into and a bolt with the head cut off as kind of a holder to keep the punch and chisel in contact. Still took a hell of a time to get it out.

Once it was out I figured out why it was such a bear to remove, this may not be a very good picture but you should be able to see the ridge it was hanging on...

Success. OK I couldnt get the rear end out with the driveshaft attached because the clutch end wouldnt have come out. I didnt try to take that apart. I DID use heat on the driveshaft end (sorry George didnt see your post until I came back inside), it was the only way I could get the pin to budge, but quenched it in water to hopefully restore some hardness. If not, I'll have to source another less rusty shaft (or make a stainless one on my lathe?).

Got the rear pin out easier (no heat obviously on the input shaft).

As to supporting it, an impact socket wedged under the coupler worked perfect.

Got the brake pedal shaft off too, that was a lot of work, including power sanding the paint and rust off that shaft so I could slide (hammer/pb) the bellcrank off of it as it came out. The differential water came out too. :RollEyes2:

Now, the front axle pin is the issue.

The pin is stuck firmly in the axle. Blows with a splitting maul did nothing but pean over the end. It is very loose in the frame bushings, so I can make new ones and weld them on. Should I heat the cast iron axle center, the big stuck pivot pin, or do something else?


Thanks for all the help

actually just got an idea to sawzall the axle pin flush with the axle, and take it to the hydraulic press to push it out. Then can make and weld on new frame bushings... and turn a new pin (if 1018 steel would be good enough)

Is is advisable not to quench anything in water that has been heated or welded while still hot to the touch.
I'll not go into metallurgy 101 here, it is a 6 year college degree minimum.
What is done is done, the driveshaft can be replaced if it is worn.
Hopefully you did not heat the input shaft.
Stainless is pretty and corrosion free, but soft.
I'd use 5/8" dia. CRS from tractor supply
easy to get and it works just fine.
( it runs about .6235-.624 depending on the supplier) :bigthink:

Is the axle pin straight up down or angled? Maybe even toward the frame?
If you at all use a punch smaller than the pin, you'll lock the pin up tighter than an engine sitting in the open without a rain cap on the exhuast. You will pound like the dickens for a while!
But if its just rusty hit it good hard and drive home with a good pin punch.
Quenching makes it brittle hard martensite.
Agree with ol george. Just get shaft from a machine shop. About 2 bucks a foot. If your lucky they have stress proof 1144.

Cut a grease pocket in your new pin and drill and tap the axle for a grease zerk. Tighten up the "C" channel, replace (if needed) bushings, tie rod and drag link ends, rebuild the steering gear box and you are all set. will drive as new.

I do this to all my cubs, Then they are a joy to drive.

End of issues

The war is over
 

That pin wasnt going to move. Smashing it with a 6lb maul it just laughed. So I cut the ends off inside the channel to get it out, and at that point, I could have went to a hydraulic press, but didnt feel like it so i drilled the center out and attempted heat. No luck. So I drilled it bigger and bigger to get a thin wall, cut that with a jig saw with a metal blade making a slit, and peeled it in with a Snap-On center punch. Very impressed with Snap-On metal quality. The hole has some rust scale with I'll clean up and can enlarge the little slit and add a zerk fitting that should help lubricate the new pin what Finrus said.

Question, can I just use mild steel or cut off a 3/4" bolt for the pin?

Something to consider since you will need the frame bushings...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-A...oAAOSwTxpbz7Vo

Or Jeff in Pa. makes the pin, maybe bushings too.

Jeff does make both as I’ve bought them from him. I may have got the prototype set!

Thanks guys. Is the pin ok to use mild steel like 1018? I have plenty of that and could turn it including a center lube channel. Could also use a 3/4" bolt (cut the head and thread end off and drill for pins) maybe?

You want the pin to be softer than the axle or the frame bushings so it wears, and is a replaceable part. I'd turn a new one, or buy a replacement. I don't think the bolt will have the proper diameter to be a good fit.

thanks sawdust. I only meant to use a bolt as raw stock and turn it down. But i have plenty of cold rolled and will use that.

Here's an interesting thread from a few months back about the axle pin vs axle bolt opinions....

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ight=axle+bolt

Looks like this tractor is putting up a good fight. Good thing your are handy with a lathe and such...

New pins are no joy to put in either. Got to really hit them good...over and over.

Saw a youtube where the guy used a small bolt instead for the rear couple pin, for that reason...

I might go with roll pins...

I thought about a bolt as well. However, the way it was put to me, the reason a bolt would be less than optimum is if there is any wiggle the holes are going to wallow out. The pins being so tight, they are the way to go.

I am attempting to put my 149 back together and have a new found hate for coiled spring pins. I am sure in the manufacturing environment they are absolutely wonderful and serve a great purpose. However trying to bang those things in has worn me to a frazzle. If there is one thing I've learned from this process, it is DO NOT REMOVE anything you don't absolutely have to if it involves one of those dang pins. :bash2:

wouldnt a roll pin be just as good?

I am wondering the same thing.

No.:ThumbsDown:

Maybe some help (maybe not):
1. After the pieces are lined up, run a 1/4" drill bit through the hole just enough to clean out any crud or burrs.
2. Cut a 1/4" bolt at the head end, just long enough to go half way through the hole.
3. Inset the cut bolt into the hole opposite the side you will be driving from. Tape it in place so it wont fall out. This will keep the holes in the two pieces aligned while the pin goes in. The pin going in will push the bolt out.
4. Put a very light coat of anti seize grease on the pin. This will help the pin go in smoother and make it easier to get out next time.
5. Run a piece of lock wire through the pin and twist tight. This should prevent the pin from falling out on it's own and marooning you down in the lower 40.

That's some good advice there Iron man. I like the bolt trick to maintain alignment. I'm curious though about the hole size, I always drill mine a little undersized, I wonder what Jeff drills his new shafts to...:bigthink:

Actually the holes are on size, it is the coiled or rolled pins that are oversize.
The coiled pins are stronger than rolled pins,and withstand shock better.
They also make coiled pins that are heavy duty, they have another roll/coil inside, and are even harder to drive in/out.
Much joy using them:angry:

Love this guide bolt idea ! Don't know why I didn't ever think of that before.

:ThumbsUp:

That's what I love about this site - innovative ideas that have been tried, tested and proven! :beerchug:

Thanks as always iron. Prob try that with spirols, but wondering why not regular split roll pins, too weak perhaps?

ol' George already 'splained it Lucy.

Well that brings up another question am I supposed to use the regular or these heavy-duty spirol?

The ones that came out were coiled all the way to the center if that says anything...

Not to be a smart a$$ but you answered your own question. You want to use the heavy duty spirol's. The others will work but if you want them to last just go with the better one's. Unless you want too go through this drill again. Like they say you can pay me now or pay me more later.
Good luck.

Thanks. I could have googled for pics to try and match them up but i was working with my cell phone at the Dr office so that's why I just asked. I'm home now and will learn about spirol types. I honestly had no idea until it was mentioned here that they might be heavy duty I was assuming they were just "spirol" and was even thinking to just use a roll pin. but that spirol installation advice was great and I can try that.

Lot to do before this goes back together for example I am going to try and make new clutch disks on the lathe. I have some 5" round material left over from another job, and it will be cool to make them if I can... :biggrin2: