Have a few questions about my 1250...
 

First question is what thread size bolt do i need to hold my side panels on? (Like 5/16 or 1/4 or something along those lines) I've tried looking everywhere and can't find anything on them. Second and final question is what diameter is the trunion shaft? I will eventually be pulling off my fender pan and repairing the trunion ( should have done it when i had the transaxle out but i didn't think it would be as bad as it is,) and my damper plate is fairly loose. I think I'm going to reweld the trunion, tighten up the damper plate and replace the springs while I'm in there as it seems that's where most of my creeping problems come from. As always, any answers are greatly appreciated.

1/4" to hold the side panel on. Don't know off hand about your second question.

Thread size is 1/4"-20 for side panels.

If you are talking about shimming the pivot of the damper and control plates:

Damper 5/8" ID Shims
Control 1/2" ID Shims

Grab some .005 and .010 shims for both sizes so you can dial it in, as well as new retaining rings. It helps tighten things up if they aren't distorted.

More info here:

http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

Okay thank you guys very much. I'll have to find or pick up some bolts this weekend. Thanks for the info on the hydro shimming process. I just remembered reading that cubFAQ article about a month ago but forgot about it. Just need to find a spring for the front (seen one on ebay for 10 bucks. Maybe I'll pick it up.) And get the shims.

For the spring pick up a screen door spring at the hardware store and rebend the ends to fit. Probably have to shorten it a little too. Should cost about 3 bucks.

I find it more convenient to use knobs instead of bolts. You can usually find them in the hardware bins at your local hardware store. I usually use them in conjunction with a SS fender washer. I also find that a throttle or clutch return spring works well at the front. :beerchug:

Put a piece of rubber hose over the spring, it need not be full length, any old useless fuel line will work, it keeps the spring from vibrating/making a weird sound. ( harmonics)
If you like to tinker and remove the side panels often,
put the bolts in from the back side and pick up a couple of wing nuts or knobs as suggested,---- makes it easier/quicker on/off :beerchug:

Ok guys, i just thought of one more question. When i was installing my hydraulic lift, i somehow broke a terminal of my pto fuse holder. I rigged up a blade fuse holder and quickly realized it doesn't work with the pto. Can i just swap the light fuse wires for the pto and use the blade fuse holder for the lights? I know it probably sounds silly but i know the lights will work fine with the blade fuse, but i don't know if the two dash fuse holders can hold the same current. Also, thanks to all the guys who helped out with the first questions. I'm still sort of a newie to the ins and outs of Cubs. All I've ever owned was deeres and thought it was time to branch out to more brands.

No reason the blade fuse holder wouldn't work with the PTO. You must have another issue. Both fuse holders on the tractor are identical.

I popped in a 10 amp after plugging in the pto wires, flipped on the pto on (with no load) and it blew it almost immediately. I'm just gonna swap them around so the pto is on the dash fuse and the lights are on the blade fuse.Only reason i asked was because the lower fuse holder looked different than the top. But i don't have a blower or tiller for it so i don't need the pto until spring when i throw the deck on.

If the pto immediately blew the fuse, start by adjusting the air gap, its covered in the manual. If the problem persists, remove it from the machine, clean and inspect for damaged or exposed wires. Roland has the specs in the tech section for how to test with your meter.

If the fuse blew, there is a short. No other reason. Swapping fuse holders isn't the answer, and it won't fix it. You have a short, find and repair it. It may even be that the PTO coil is bad and internally shorted. Either way, it's a short.


Improper air gap will not blow a fuse. May cause the PTO not to engage.... but will not blow a fuse. No relation to air gap and electrical load. All an electric PTO is is an electromagnet. Power flows through it no matter what the gap is.


This is the correct answer. :beerchug:

Look for the short to be the power wire going to the pto, in the area where the wire enters the pto. I've found this to be common.

Hmm...:bigthink: I thought that when the fuse on my 1650 kept blowing it was because the air gap adjusting nuts had been overtightened and the resulting drag and subsequent friction was causing the pto to overheat resulting in amperage draw in excess of what the fuse could handle. I guess I was wrong.:bash2:

Also look for wear or cracks of the epoxy that beds the coil. You may find exposed wires there that will result in a short.

I have a feeling it is probably a short, most likely along the frame. Based on the condition of the rest of the harness, it has to be cut up somewhere. Kind of wish it had loom on it from the factory (would help saveme and lots of people a lot of headaches.) It didn't seem to have this many problems when i got it, now i have to replace the suction tube o ring (my consequence for rushing headfirst into a ported pump swap, not looking at a diagram and realizing there's an o ring in the pump that probably needed replaced), replace the speed control cam plate (engagement groove is wore so it has slop around the damper plate nub allowing for slop around neutral), do the engine mounts and cradle, and hydro fan and flex discs. Should have just replaced it all the first time i had the rear end out, but the money wasn't really there. Problem is i have about 4-5 other projects i need to work on and it seems like all i do is work on the 1250. But looking at the side to side movement of the damper and speed cam on their shafts there is very little to no play. Just about all of it is in the speed control plate groove (don't think the little nub is wore very much. Well, not as bad as the old one anyway. ) So it shouldn't be too bad (fingers crossed).

May I suggest to unplug the PTO at the connector, it is located maybe 6" from the PTO.
Then try engaging the PTO, if fuse still blows, it is a wiring issue.
If it does not blow, remove and inspect PTO.

I missed this.....

That's likely..... BUT... the fuse didn't blow with the engine off, while it was cold just by flipping the switch. It had to heat up first. Even then, it would have had to get really hot to make it pull enough amps to blow the fuse. It's likely your coil no longer has good coating on the coil wires internally.