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-   -   18HP Command into 1872 or 682? (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49607)

samckitt 08-07-2017 06:09 PM

18HP Command into 1872 or 682?
 
Got a lead on a 18HP Command engine. Worth swapping into a 682 (Or maybe into 1872)? Any special/custom parts required?
Thanks

R Bedell 08-07-2017 06:31 PM

Should drop in and a slight electrical modification.

samckitt 08-07-2017 06:33 PM

Im not sure yet what Cub it came out of, it is still in the tractor. SHould I gett wiring harness, engine plate, driveshaft.....?

R Bedell 08-07-2017 06:34 PM

Quote:

Should I get wiring harness, engine plate, driveshaft
You can if you want to.

Shrewcub 08-07-2017 09:28 PM

Muffler
 
You'll need a muffler and heatshield from an 1863 ,1864, or 2084.

samckitt 08-08-2017 10:19 AM

Found out the tractor is a 2185

sorner 08-08-2017 04:28 PM

I'm into this swap right now actually. It's not a bad transplant. I put a CH18S from a 2185 into a 682 (kind of). It's a 1641 frame I'm using with some other stuff, but it's the same frame as the 682. You do need to make some wiring changes to account for the differences in ignition systems. You will also need to drill new holes in the mounting plate for your 682 to mount the engine, or you could get one from a cyclops tractor and mount it right up. You'll have to modify the driveshaft also. Here's my thread on it, but again, I'm doing more than just an engine swap.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=49314

samckitt 08-09-2017 09:16 AM

Any advantage to putting the Command engine in the 1872? 18hp magnum is in it, burns a little oil & I dont think the governor works properly, but other than that runs good.

Will the PTO from either the 18hp or 17hp magnum fit on the Command engine?

Anyone have spare heat shield & muffler from donor tractors mentioned above for sale?

sorner 08-09-2017 10:31 AM

Any advantage is in the eye of the beholder. Both are rated 18HP. I did the swap from a Kohler Series II 18 to CH18 because I already had the CH18.

The CH18 heat shields aren't easy to find, in my experience. One happened to pop up on eBay right when I needed one, but I didn't see many listed in the past that were either sold or ended. You might find something from a salvage yard.

As far as the PTO, I think it's the same and will fit. I'm sure this has been posted before in the forum somewhere. I have the bigger pulleyed PTO clutch on mine that was in the 2185 because I put a cyclops front axle under it so I can use my GT decks on it, which take the bigger pulley.

samckitt 08-10-2017 10:57 AM

Picked it up last night. Sorry no pics yet.

Then I go to mow grass with my 1872 & the end comes off the muffler. Always something.

samckitt 03-05-2018 05:58 PM

What driveshaft should I look for putting this Command 18 in the 1872?

sorner 03-05-2018 06:14 PM

Is this what the engine mount plate is for that I just sent out this morning?:biggrin2:

samckitt 03-05-2018 06:57 PM

If it was shipped to williamsburg, VA, then yep it was me. LOL

sorner 03-05-2018 07:03 PM

Yup it was.

I used part of a cut off 2185 driveshaft and the original 82 drive shaft and slid the 82 shaft into the 2185 shaft, so the rear was the original connection and the 2185 end went to the engine. That was on a 682 though, the 1872 would be longer and I’m not sure if that’s work. I don’t have that tractor anymore.

samckitt 03-06-2018 01:08 PM

I take it the 2185 is hollow, and happens to be the same ID as the OD of the 682/1872?

J-Mech 03-06-2018 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samckitt (Post 447637)
I take it the 2185 is hollow, and happens to be the same ID as the OD of the 682/1872?

It is hollow, but I do not believe the solid shaft is a tight fit to the hollow one. I would get a hold of Jeff in PA for some help.

Sam Mac 03-06-2018 03:43 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 447638)
It is hollow, but I do not believe the solid shaft is a tight fit to the hollow one. I would get a hold of Jeff in PA for some help.

Jon actually the 2000 series shaft is a nice snug fit to the 5/8" shaft used on most older Cubs. That's what I did on my 149 at the engine end. The 149 drive cup was shot as was the end of the drive shaft. Once I got the length as I wanted it I marked it, pulled it out of the tractor, drilled it and put a 1/4" spirol pin in it. Then I reinstalled it. :beerchug:

J-Mech 03-06-2018 04:31 PM

I never tried it. I knew someone had, but couldn't remember any details. I had it in my mind that it was close, but not a tight fit. Good to know. :beerchug:

ironman 03-06-2018 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 447646)
Jon actually the 2000 series shaft is a nice snug fit to the 5/8" shaft used on most older Cubs. That's what I did on my 149 at the engine end. The 149 drive cup was shot as was the end of the drive shaft. Once I got the length as I wanted it I marked it, pulled it out of the tractor, drilled it and put a 1/4" spirol pin in it. Then I reinstalled it. :beerchug:

Sam, have you concocted any way to use this ides at the other end of the driveshaft to eliminate the rag joint? In other words is there any kind of coupler that can go on the hydro shaft that will bolt up to the barrel housing?

Sam Mac 03-06-2018 08:28 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Jeff in PA makes the pump adapters that allow you to use the 2000 series or the CV style drive shafts. 1st pic is the type needed for something like a 782 with a 5/8" round shaft with the spirol pin, the 2nd is for the Supers or Cyclops that have the 5/8" nine spline shafts.

ironman 03-06-2018 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 447678)
Jeff in PA makes the pump adapters that allow you to use the 2000 series or the CV style drive shafts. 1st pic is the type needed for something like a 782 with a 5/8" round shaft with the spirol pin, the 2nd is for the Supers or Cyclops that have the 5/8" nine spline shafts.

Awesome! Thank you for that info. I have a worn rear coupler on my 149 and I already have a 2000 series drive shaft. With Jeff's adapter I should be good to go. Apologies for highjacking the thread.

J-Mech 03-06-2018 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman (Post 447681)
Awesome! Thank you for that info. I have a worn rear coupler on my 149 and I already have a 2000 series drive shaft. With Jeff's adapter I should be good to go. Apologies for highjacking the thread.

Sam's talked about that conversation like 100 times. I'm surprised you didn't know....not picking on you. But it's been mentioned a lot.

ironman 03-07-2018 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 447692)
Sam's talked about that conversation like 100 times. I'm surprised you didn't know....not picking on you. But it's been mentioned a lot.

I did know, but I always assumed that it was done mainly to replace all the junk at the flywheel end because it is a simple bolt-on transition. I wasn't aware there was an adapter available to do the hydro end. I will be contacting Jeff today.

sorner 03-09-2018 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 447646)
Jon actually the 2000 series shaft is a nice snug fit to the 5/8" shaft used on most older Cubs. That's what I did on my 149 at the engine end. The 149 drive cup was shot as was the end of the drive shaft. Once I got the length as I wanted it I marked it, pulled it out of the tractor, drilled it and put a 1/4" spirol pin in it. Then I reinstalled it. :beerchug:

+1 snug fit. The one I did I had to "persuade" it on with a rubber mallet.


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