Changing Oil
 

Does anybody have a good way to change the oil without running it all over the belt and subframe??

My yard looks like the Gulf.:bash2:

Yeah, take off the deck and subframe.

I am going to try to build a pipe and pan setup that will fit under it. I tried a short piece of PVC pipe and that didn't work. I may add a 90* fitting to it.

my ariens 934 Hydro has a elbow and piece of pipe and cap attach to the oil pan that extends beyond the frame. I've was wondering if this would work on the Cubs. I've had this mower for 11 years now and no problems.

I added one to my Snapper, but it always worried me.

I mow about 6 hours every week, so I add up a lot of hours. It seems that every time I need to do something I have to remove the deck.

I think I have found the perfect thing to use. I am digging a trench to run a conduit and electricity to my Chicken Coop and I tried a 1" PVC conduit elbow and I think it will fit.

I've used a small funnel and hose before, but sometimes if overflows and is a little messy. Most of the time it works fine though. The PVC sounds like an interesting option to explore.

Cub Cadet 123

The elbow and pipe thats attach here is metal. My only concern with pvc is that if it gets caught on some thing it would break real easy. Then the engine woud seize. Even with the metal I'am still very careful when I use the machine. Removing the deck is alot easier than replacing a engine and less costly!

Here is what I came up with. A piece of 1" PVC Conduit Elbow. Should fit with the deck up or down, might still be a bit messy, but it's better than draining the oil in the grass, and all over the belt.

top-sider.. I use it to change the oil in my car.. works in the cub too...

What is a "Top-Sider"?

You could look into a Pella oil extractor. It will suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Strangly enough, it really does a good job of removing all the oil.

AJ

Amigatec-

How exactly is that going to work? You're still going to get a bunch everywhere between taking out the oil plug and putting that thing on there.

It will be a bit ticky, but you have to use 2 hands and hold it until the oil is drained. I may work with it some more and improve on it.

Just watched the video looks like it did a pretty good job! Which model do you have?

:Stop: :HeadScratch:

I am confused? I removed the deck from my 982 (which is VERY simple) to change the oil. I leave the mule drive and sub-frame on for the deck with very little issues. I slide the large square oil drip pan under the tractor, loosen the drain plug with the wratchet & socket, then take it out the rest of the way with my hands. Drain the block, then slide the pan over slightly and remove the oil filter and let the two drain out completely (as much as I can get out of it). When finished I slide the pan out with the old oil in, take a rag and wipe off the little dribble down the side of the frame from where the oil filter is. Then reach up underneath and screw in the drain plug finger tight, grab the socket and wratchet and tighten it up. Grab the rage next and wipe off the the small piece of the frame and the cross bar of the sub-frame. TOTAL amount of oil I wipe off the tractor....maybe 2 tables spoons? I am sorry...I don't see what the big problem is? At least, there isn't one on the 82 series. :beerchug:

I don't having to remove the deck everytime.

Methos I don't have one, but a good friend of mine does. He uses his quite a bit. I think he has the 650 model.

AJ

topsider
 

This is what they use on my MB (commercial version).. figure if it's good enough for them it's good enough for everything I drive...

We've had a 12v model for our big boat for years... never even dawned on me to use it in anything else till I walked (years ago) into the shop and noted thats how they were changing the oil... I asked the mechanic (who was changing it on a gelandewagen 550) if that was standard.. he said absolutely.. they didn't drain the pan unless something else was at issue...I asked on all of them, he said every single MB.. this was factory approved..

on my MB the oil filter is actually a pretty crazy contraption.. I do get some oil on my hands changing out the 5 O rings and sliding the filter on.. but the pump makes extracting the oil into a recycling container very, very simple..and very, very clean..



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too..._390306_390306

http://lifehacker.com/189493/diy-topsider-oil-changer

My 122 has a 90 degree pipe fitting with a pipe cap. Works great and allows me to put that oil where ever I want it.

The 1872 I bought had a brass shutoff valve on it which worked good, but I removed it because I use my tractors for more than mowing, and I'm afraid something would knock it off or open it. If you just mow, you can probably use something like that and just connect a hose before draining it.

I use a piece of cardboard to make a trough to the pan. I also have a brass nipple that sticks out about 1.5" with a cap on it. Makes it pretty easy and clean.

Scott

I drain so I can clear the bottom of the pan.

Scott

Yeah, that is a concern. However this type of service is very common on boats. Our 7.4L mercruiser engine (1989, 700 hours) would have to be removed from the boot, or the oil would just spill into the bilge. I also figure that mercedes Benz wouldn't risk warantee claims on any engine.

I think this is a chicken & egg deal, there are pro's & cons on both sides that are valid. The vacume method is just one alternative to fighting with the drain plug. For me it works.

I would think that if you warmed the engine up before changing the oil, all the dirt in the oil would be mixed up well enough that the little amount that settles to the bottom would be negligible.

AJ

I use the "burn and replace" method...eventually....over time....as the old oil is spit out the exhaust in a vibrant blue cloud, I simply add more. Pretty nifty huh??

On a serious note....I have tried all kinds of things from conduit to pvc to cut up funnels, and my newest contraption is one of my wifes old cookie sheets, the type with the raised edges. I drilled a hole in one bottom corner and position it over my catch pan. Works pretty well if the deck is on...but like others have said...its best to change your oil with the seasons, when your switching from plow to deck, or cleaning the deck in the fall...


Jeff (teet)

http://www.lakeandair.com/SAF-AIR-S1...-18-p/1977.htm
This is what we use on General Aviation aircraft. This may/may not be correct application, but is an idea I think of what Matt is referring to. This is super quick/clean for changing oil. You simply place a length of tubing over the nipple and open the drain. No mess. Again, with the application on a garden tractor, might accidentally open, but I think highly unlikely.

J Rob

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...264/siphon.jpg

$ 15.95 price,

Bought on sale @ Harbor Freight Tools $ 9.95 :Woo:

Been using this handy little pump for over 2 years, it will pump out a quart in about 15sec.. A cheapie unit but does a great job for very little cost.

Bought it for draining the oil mixture for my boat.
for Winter maintenance.

Nik,