1450 Lift Valve Handle Removal- Suggestions??
 

I'm removing a dual stick from a 1450 and so far it's been pretty straight forward, even if the tractor has to be practically completely disassembled. I'm down to the last piece. I'm not sure how to get the valve handle out of the dash tower. I've got the longer thinner handle removed but the second handle has me baffled. I've attached pics. If anyone knows the secret I'd love to know.

Is it possible that the handle unscrews allowing it to be released from the shaft?

On the one I had the handle unscrewed and then the base slid off, the handle acts as a set screw.

Thank you so much! I was afraid to try that without a second opinion. I didn't want to snap it off. That's for sure.

:IH Trusted Hand:


I might also add that the handle rod is a sleeve with a threaded rod inside of it. You may have to take the handle off (it's screwed/threaded on also), pull the sleeve then unscrew the rod.

You are exactly right. I removed the handle, the lock nut, and the tube. Then I was able to put a pair of vise grips on the the threaded rod to remove it. I used penetrating oil but should have waited and let it soak overnight. It snapped. Now I have to drill it out and repair the handle since it's made of unobtainium. I should have known better.

Ooooh. That sucks.

If you can't get it off, JeffinPa can make you a new one. I'll look around, I'm not so sure you can't buy that piece from somewhere else. It may not be chrome, but I thought I've seen them before....:bigthink:

My uncle has a lathe and likes to tinker so I might take it over to him. My thoughts are to remove the broken part from the banjo looking piece and also to drill and tap the handle rod. The I'll screw a stud into it....or maybe just call Jeff. :biggrin2:

Did it break off flush?

Then have Tim powderchrome it!

I was just thinking that.... you beat me!! Yes powderchrome it!! :beerchug:

It did. Still threads on the handle.

Alike great think minds! :bigthink:

You will still have to machine them, but McMaster Carr does offer a non finished rod end. You have to bore the hole in the end for the tube, and tap the internal threads for the handle, but it will save some machining time.

I really wish McMaster would let you link to a specific page.... :angry:
I included a screen shot. Maybe you can make out what I circled.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=17o70d6


Attachment 84881





Yeah... I wouldn't be too hopeful of getting that out. I bet it's stuck good if you twisted it off. I doubt an easy out will get it. You could try welding a washer and a nut to it, letting it cool then attempting to remove it. It might work. It's been my experience that when a bolt is broke off in something like that, when you weld the nut on it, it heats up what's left of the rod and once cooled it will come out. But not always. I'd probably try to get it out.

I found the blanks you were talking about. I'll give it a shot tomorrow to get the broken bolt out. I'm not getting my hopes up. As cheap as that blank is I think that's the way to go. Thanks for all the leg work. I appreciate it.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Heat WOULD have been your friend here
Too late for that now though
IHCCW had that part new.
I got one from him last year, not cheap.
Probably because of the chrome!:bigthink:

I'm thinking you can grind that as flush as you can and accurately center punch it to center the drill. Start small and then graduate to bigger and bigger bits you can most likely thin the wall out enough to get it out and save the end. Use plenty of cutting oil. I use left handed bits towards the end and have some good extractors. At any rate, good luck

Take off plastic handle, Double nut the threaded rod and unscrew the rod handle
You may need some PB Blaster, but will come off

Your behind.... he already did that, and it broke. Read all the prior posts....

Yep...I'm always behind, but maybe this will help somebody in future
Thanks

would like to have Jeff make one of the inner rods, already talked to him, would you be so kind and post the measurements for us.

Thanks
Carroll

I don't mind at all. Do you mean the threaded-on-both-ends rod covered by the chrome tube for the outer control handle?

Yes, inner threaded tube measurements and while your there the I.D.and O.D. and length of the outer sleeve tube that goes over it. Since these are NLA thought it might be worth it for Jeff to have the measurements for those like me doing a conversion or for those that need a replacement. Some pictures may help too.

Much appreciated

Carroll

The outer sleeve measures 5 13/16 long, .43 ID, .56 OD

The handle I have is broken so I'm adding both pieces to get the total measurement. I've attached a pic of an unbroken handle also.

The center smooth section is 4 11/16 long, .40 OD
The good end has 1" of 3/8-16 threads
The broken end has (approx.) 1.75" of 3/8-16 threads
Total length is 7.5" including the machined tip that acts as a lock on the horizontal shaft.

I'm not a machinist so these measurements are just "pretty close"

Thanks, will keep everybody posted, Jeff does some nice work I see.

Carroll

Need the "nub" measurement ( lock ) on the end. 1/4" OD x 1/8" long?

Almost there :beerchug:

Corrected thread size to 3/8-16 NC

Also and lastly for my 1650 I could use the measurements for the placement of front hydro outlet holes as I will need to do that . I have access inside or out as engine and cradle are out still.

thanks for your help

Carroll

The nub is still inside the rod end for now. I haven't had time to try to get it out yet. I'm going away until next week but I'll work on it when I get back.

I'll get that for you next week when I return home.

Measurements
 

Here's the measurements to locate the front holes for the hydraulic ports. I'm just okay at measuring and even worse at drawing so....

Got it, thanks Gary !

I corrected the thread size in your reply. Please go back in your reply and change them from 24 threads per inch to 16 threads per inch.

I have to make another shaft