I got a "plastic one" !!!---2284
 

Yep, I done gone and got me one them plastic lawnmowers!:bigeyes: Last year I decided I had more mowers than we need to use--but I sure wouldn't mind having one of those great big cyclops Supers---if a cheap one came along. Tues night I did a no-no. Pulled up CL and typed in Cadet. Up popped a 1450 Cadet--but it sure looked like Cyclops to me. Going to Cadet's website revealed it was a 2284. Price was cheap---my kind of cheap (as in very). Looked a little rough, didn't run. I emailed the guy and he texted me around 10pm. Arranged to go look at it yesterday but he had a family emergency. He promised to hold it till I got off work today. In the meantime I sent the ad to Sam Mac. I figured he'd give an honest opinion and not buy it our from under me. To paraphrase Sam, he'd be all over it. I was hooked, if I couldn't find anything horrific, it was going 15 miles north.
I really need to pause and thank Sam for being a GREAT guy and not buying this behind my back since it was well within driving range for him.:beerchug: I'm sure I'll be making a pest of myself asking questions.:biggrin2:

I had a buddy come over today to help dad get the trailer hooked up behind dad's truck. Dad met me after work and we set off on yet another adventure. When I got there it turns out the guy flips late model lawnmowers, and he has some REALLY nice looking stuff. I was drooling all over a Cadet Tank with a new engine and immaculate original paint. Must have had 15-20 other mowers of all brands for sale. All were fairly new and in above average shape--guy has an eye for quality. This machine did not belong with the rest of his stuff. He actually traded for it. Claims he didn't have time to fix it with all the other work he has to do so he put it for sale cheap.

Guy had removed the PTO clutch trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't turn over fast. Don't know why he didn't just take the belt off. The guy he got it from pulled the right side valve cover--broke a bolt off in the process. The 2 of them are convinced there is something wrong with the camshaft/valves. Even though the starter would barely spin it over, you could tell it didn't have a broke rod (both sides appeared to be compressing air). I noticed a bolt out of the starter and the other one appears to have been out recently, seller didn't know anything about that. The grill is cracked at the bottom--he pointed out the side panels are what is holding that on. Tires look good, front axle seems fairly tight, power steering doesn't appear to be leaking. Rear end looks dry. Air filter looked about new. Dash has some cracks. Seat is a mess and safety switch unhooked. Deck needs a little help--loose bearings. I think the key switch is buggered--key fits real loose.

Got home and couldn't stand it, had to hook up the charger. Well, turns out it has a huge battery (for a lawn mower)--over 575 amps. Wouldn't you know it, positive cable is loose and dirty. Rolled out my big charger and it went to spinning a lot better, but not great. Pulled the valve cover removed by the PO and all looked well, other than the bolt I have to drill out.:bash2: Pulled plugs and have 100lbs compression each side. Seems low, is there a compression release in play here? Maybe valves need setting? It has oil in it so nothing to do but squirt some penetrating oil in carb to see what happens. It tried to make a little noise, sure the lube was good for the cylinders. Decided I needed more bang and used some starting fluid. Got a pop or 2, even seems it tried to kick back on starter. I'm encouraged. I think next we'll pull the starter and check the connections, as well as the rest of the wiring. Then I want to see how strong the fire is. Get it spinning and get fire, it should run--maybe just not well. I'll deal with the fuel system once I know it runs. Probably pull the engine for cleaning, it is quite dirty. I just want to know it runs before I tear it all apart and invest money into it.

By not ever owning one of these, I have generally ignored the threads about this series. Now I'm doing a bunch of research of old threads. Sam and Dirty Steve are now 2 of my favorite authors! I highly doubt this will be as nice as what those guys have done. My goal is to make it mechanically solid and reliable. And then to use the heck out of it.

Now here is the problem--not enough shop time.:bash2: I've got some MUST do farm projects before I can do much with this one. I'll probably tinker on it a little the next few days while finishing up the 1811 (hopefully). Then it will probably have to go into storage for a while.

Surprisingly, dad didn't pitch a fit about me buying this. All I had to do was to say bring the truck and he was ready to go. This one was built 3-4 years after he retired. He seems enthused about learning something new--at 86 yrs old.

That's "super" nice John. I was actually reading the comments on the Craig's list ad and realized you got it. Was hoping you would post about it, thanks for the story and pics. How many hours on the clock?

Congrats on picking up some plastic, John!:beerchug:

Great pics of your Dad! When I'm 86, I hope that's me! :)

Oh, nice monster 2284!

You're going to love mowing with that! No substitute for power steering and a tilt wheel!
Congrats. :beerchug:

Good grab John, Dad looks like he was impressed with your new toy.

Good for you, looking at those pics, you won't have to do too much, Dad may just take over the restore for you........and then take over the tractor.

Congrats on the new to you super John.:beerchug:
Good to see your pop's is interested...:beer2:

John

Welcome to the Cyclops club.

Here is some reading for you. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244


Kohler CH's have hydraulic lifters, no valve adjustment. Pull the spark plugs and see if it turns over. I'd also pull the valve covers and check to see if every thing is OK on the top end.

Your lucky I am in the middle of an 1864 or that 2284 would be in my shop, LOL. Just kidding I promised you that you had first shot at it. If you had passed on it I would be on the way to get it.

Congrats John. Great pics of your dad helping in the check out of the new machine. I bet your dad will like driving that one with the adjustable seat and tilt wheel. That is one of the nicest Cyclops I've seen come up for sale in the south and it was priced way under its value. I'm glad that one of "us" got it too.:beerchug:

Congrats on the new member of the family. I have got to come up for a visit. Sam I would have been closer and we needed to keep this one in the Old North State! LOL.

Gentlemen, thanks for all the nice comments. I'm really having to restrain myself from not working on this one--got to at least get the 1811 out of the shop first. The 2284 is still on the trailer. Charged the battery some more today, but it still needs help from the charger to spin over. I need to check over the starter, and check the strength of the fire. Hopefully with a bit of tinkering we can get it to fire off before finding a shed to put it under until I have time to do fun stuff like flushing the fuel system and examining the carb. Nothing appears beat up, a bit weathered though. Grill is broke where it mounts, I'm guessing that is age? Looks fixable, fortunately.

In addition to Sam and Steve, I have found Ryan chronicled a lot of work on a cyclops as well. Like I said in another post, I've kind of skimmed over/ignored the cyclops stuff--but you can bet I'm reading them now! Thanks to those who go to the effort of putting those together.:beerchug:

I believe the main reason the grills break is because people ram them into fixed objects that don't move. Some like to sit on the hoods, lean on the side panels with the hood open.

I have three Cyclops that I've owned and solely used and there's not a crack one in the plastics. Others I have bought not so lucky. But I have bought a few tractors that also had perfect plastic.

I've also noticed that whoever tightens down the grill to frame sometimes puts enough torque on the bolts to completely crush the plastic base. Snug is all that's required.

FINALLY, we had time to get this thing in the shop. Oh my what a greasy mess the engine is. So here is what we found. Somebody had the starter off at some time, one mounting bolt was missing. The engine seemed to turn over slow. I replaced both battery ends and charged the battery, I think this thing has something north of a 700 amp battery in it:Huh:. Still wouldn't spin over very fast. Pulled the starter apart to clean it up and the insulation on the fields had melted. It spun over a little better, but not much. Matter of fact it was so slow the plugs only fired "orange". Said the heck with it, ordered a new starter from DB electrical for $47 delivered. Put it on tonight and man does that thing spin over fast. Pulled the line from the fuel pump, and it was working. Left it off and tried to get it to crank on WD-40, only managed to flood it. Dried it out and switched over to Cub Cadet penetrating oil (that stuff will crank anything) and it fired up. Took a bit to finish drying out but after about a minute, away it went. I'm actually burning the old fuel in it, less than a year old supposedly. Let it run maybe 5 minutes all together, shut it down and restarted it a few times--effortlessly I might add. Couldn't resist so I removed all the wrenches and drove it a few feet inside the shop (much needed rain outside). Hydro is smooth very quiet, steering is responsive. I did notice the axle has a lot of slop, didn't appear to have any when it was just a yellow blob sitting in the guys yard--I'll have to address that. I do have a bit of a miss, but I believe that is a bad plug, gonna get a pair of plugs tomorrow. Gonna see about pressure washing--need to remove tunnel cover and maybe fenders--got a rat nest on top of rear.:bigeyes: After a bath, I'll change engine oil, grease it, reinstall PTO and try to cut some grass. Once I am content that it is solid, I'll service the hydro, and get a new air filter. Oh yeah, got to drill a broken valve cover bolt out of the head. Overall, we are quite pleased so far.
Yeah, there are a few little things--broken grill, crack in dash, panel where all those dash lights are is gone, couple deck gage wheels need attention, key switch needs replacing, safety swithches need to be put back into working order.

Off the top of your head, anyone know what the second dash light from the left is for? It kept coming on while I was test driving, but it wasn't corresponding well with hydro lever position.

I think that is the low fuel light.
Glad to see you got it going John.

It's alive!! Congrats on the runner!!:beerchug:

It is the low fuel light.

Congrats on the runner John! :beerchug:

John,

Congrats on the new to you plastic tractor!!:biggrin2::biggrin2: I will have to admit that I used to be anti plastic... I was also anti CCC.. The only Cub Cadet I wanted was an IH built one!:beerchug: BUT.... I now must eat my words.. I stumbled into a 1782 several years ago at a decent deal.. I was looking for a metal hood diesel.. wanted to paint it red and claim it was IH.. Never could find one so I settled for a plastic Cyclops.. Got it running well and used it a little and I was in love... Dad drove it a little and HAD to have his own! So we bought one of Sam's 2182's for him!! Sam by the way is a great stand up guy.. full of Cyclops info!

The tilt wheel and power steering will spoil you!! You will learn to overlook the plastic hood.. With a bit of care it really isn't that bad... Some say the Cyclops wiring is a nitemare... had a few issues with the 1782 due to a previous owner mangling stuff... straightened that out and haven't had a minutes issue with it... Sam had already rewired the other one.. It works great also.

The two best mods I have done to the 1782... gauges and rear axle braces!

Have fun with it!! They still have a lot of IH heritage! :biggrin2:

Oh yeah... the front axle slop.... they have two pre load adjustment bolts on the front.. mine were buried in grease.. they require regular adjustment... I bet that will fix the slop!:beerchug:

Put new plugs in (runs better), drove it around a bit--hydro working wonderful.

Are these known for a very slow reverse? compared to my 2072, 982,1811 this thing creeps in reverse. Asking is this normal before I go chasing linkage adjustments and such.

Pulled the tunnel cover and everything looks decent---as in lift cylinder, steering, hydro were all dry and dusty. I am assuming the big square blob of electrical tape was the pedal safety switch? I'm guessing it is taped in the depressed position? My plan will be to restore that and the seat switch back to operation--seems I have had to do that to all our "newer" Cadets.

Hydro oil was full and looked/smelled normal. After I run it some more I will at least change the filter, maybe a full fluid change. So, I notice the axle housings are different, do these retain water and need the case drilled?

The engine had a couple areas that were greasy--got to look for leaks. We have a long non OSHA approved air gun that I used to clean the engine prior to washing--had the air cleaner base off so I could get to the flywheel area.

I got the broken valve cover bolt out. Engine is made with a counterbore for the spacer/shoulder bolt. So I made a guide for drilling the bolt out. I drilled it 3/16 (a little smaller than the tap drill for a 6mm screw). Turned a shoulder for a good slip fit in the counterbore and made it long enough so I could hold it with something while drilling. Worked great, I was able to fish the "threads" of the bolt out like removing a heli-coil.

Gave it a bath. Need to reinstall PTO clutch, grease the machine and see if it will cut grass. Oh, yeah change the engine oil! I'll pick up a new air filter eventually, the one in it isn't that bad--but it deserves a new one.

Your starter looks clean though.

Here is slow reverse issues.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

Starter was $47 delivered from DB Electrical---you supply your own dirt and grime.:biggrin2:
Thanks for the hydro bulletin! Printed it out to take to the shop.

I've used a bunch of starters and alternators from DB Electrical.. Automotive and small engine... fast, reasonable and never had an issue with quality... I would highly recommend them. They have all the popular Kohler and Kubota starters in stock!:beerchug:

Update time!
PTO clutch had a small crack in the insulation, so I painted over the area with liquid electrical tape. Cleaned the crank and put it back on (used a dab of never-seize). Now it was time to see if this thing would mow grass. The answer---Yes, sort of. You have to hold the switch all the way up in the spring loaded position, PTO kicks off when it falls back to run position.

So, time to start tracing things--I need help if you guys have any ideas.

Lets start with what I have done. I replaced the key switch, not saying that is the problem, but look at the pic and you will understand. I had already ordered a switch so I put it on. The black wire on the switch had gotten really hot, I had to cut it back and install a splice and new end. The connector has melted obviously, where do you buy those and how do you know what to get?

The PTO clutch itself, this is the non adjustable kind--doesn't have the 3 little bolts and locknuts. If it pulls in nice and crisp and holds to mow, air gap wouldn't be a problem would it? I did see a thread on here where a guy faced a little off one of the shoulders (in a lathe) to close his air gap.

Battery test 14 volts with meter and has no problem holding a charge or whipping the starter.

Safety switches--I think this is where the problem is. To begin, the one for the "clutch" pedal is just laying on the rockshaft wrapped in tape. Looks to have been done quite some time ago. Darn thing has 6 wires going to it, I suppose Cadet has a reason, but that switch was a lot simpler on the old machines. Assuming this is the clutch switch it works/is bypassed because engine cranks up without touching any of the pedals--I'll restore this back to proper safety function later.
Now there are 2 seat switches, a grey and a black. I don't know which one goes on what wires, but the parts book lists one as normally open, the other normally closed. I THINK, they go in a depression/slot at the back of the pan the seat is mounted to. There is a spring loaded plate above that that works the switches. To clarify, the black switch is in that slot, The grey one is not, it was just laying on the fender pan. Either the plastic tab the held the switch in broke, or someone pried this switch out of the slot. I did notice a skinned place on a wire going to the grey switch--maybe it has friends? Oh yeah, the 2 wires going to the black switch show resistance with my meter, the 2 on the grey do not.
Regarding the reverse switch, it appears to work. I disconnected the wires and if you toggle the switch, continuity alternates from one side to the other (there are 3 wires on it). It is adjusted so in neutral, the switch is not tripped--until you push the hydro lever to the reverse side of the slot.

Oh, there is a relay to the left of the battery. When I took it off there was actually a small hole in it and distorted looking plastic, battery acid or got hot? I replaced it (parts house crossed the Bosch number over with no problem). I need a third hand to help activate the seat switches and toggle the PTO to see if it works. I am ASSUMING the PTO will not stay on unless you are in the seat, or do the seat switches just kill the engine making the PTO irrelevant?

My thinking is to go after the seat switches and wiring if the relay didn't fix the problem--do you guys see something I don't?

Also, what in the heck is up with the 2 wires held together with a wire nut? Likewise, look at this splice in a ground wire---runs all the way to the battery?:bigthink:

John,
Wire nut should be a voltage sensor there, you need a wiring diagram,and Sam may have one.
The connector has a part number, it is 729-0126

For the switch connection. Check out electricaldepot.com, Delphi 56 series. I think you want the 5 way female 2973422. Please double check me on that. I went and ordered 5 each of the 5 way, 3 ways, 2 way and 1 way. In both the male and females plus the terminals. The shipping is a set dollar amount so I stocked up.

John, here's the schematic for yours. Looks like the "run" portion of the pto goes through one of the seat switches that provides positive to the reverse relay coil, violet and black wires. . I would do some checks specifically in this area as those connections are sometimes problematic. Remember that some of these switches are n/o and some are n/c but held open or held closed.

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/AR...0-A/0041300044

Oh joy, something else to figure out. Looks like the voltage sensor is still mounted beside the battery and hooked up:bigthink:


Thanks, I'll be looking into those, I seem to be running into more bad wire harness every few months.

Well, I tried to print it yesterday but couldn't read it. Today I saved it to my computer as a picture and now I printed it out full size and it is much more legible. Depending on how crazy I get trying to get the rest of the electrical working (4 more dash lights unhooked/not working) I'll need it for sure. Not to mention sorting out the "wire nut".:bash2:

The PTO is working now! Turns out it was the relay. I picked one up last night and stuck it in, but got the same results. I realized this morning that I failed to trip either seat switch.:bash2: The way I have wires and switches dangling everywhere, this is a 2 man job. Got my dad to work the seat switches. We tried various combinations and found the BLACK seat switch controls what happens with the PTO. Don't know what the grey one does but it doesn't have any effect on the PTO. To prove it was the relay I put the old one back in, problem was back. Put the new one back on, problem gone again. Hopefully about 15 minutes of tidying up some switches and I should be ready to test mow.

Good work, John. :beerchug: Electrical is a night mare on these Supers.

You are 100% correct. I used to think people were just complaining. They weren't. I'm on my second rewire, wasn't worth the time to try and save it.
I don't know who CCC was buying connectors and components from but they are terrible.

I've been lucky on the 1782.. I had several electrical issues to sort out but they weren't hard and fortunately nobody else had butchered anything.. 3 years in and I haven't had any more issues. Good luck John! You will have a nice unit in the end! you won't regret it!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Well I got the safety switches back under the seat where they belong. Put the PTO switch back in the dash---I was getting desperate so I pulled it out the other day. Also got the new key switch in place. Time to mow! Found out real quick there ain't nothing wrong with the reverse switch, also found out how often you actually back up in a small/restricted area. Also found out you better not lean too far forward or the seat switch trips the PTO real easy. Anyway, enough talk about safety witches.
This thing is a real beast! I have no idea what shape the blades are in but it doesn't even think about backing down. Never even bothered to check the level on the deck--cuts very level. I did find the steering must be addressed very soon--almost impossible to hold a straight line mowing. Looks like slop in the axle as well as in the joints on the steering cylinder. Throttle lever keep slipping down, I assume there is a friction disc somewhere. Engine ran pretty good, may have loaded up a time or two when idling/not mowing. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, plan on replacing the lines at some point, the ones on it appear rather old--as in original. I did manage to throw the deck belt, don't ask cause I don't know. Maybe its stiff from sitting, seems to flap around a bit. Put it back on and mowed another 1/2 hr, no problems. That low fuel light trips at nothing. I mean a gallon of gas in the tank and it enjoys coming on every time you lean the machine 10 degrees:bash2:

Probably need to go ahead and change hydro filter. Seems a touch bit flaky sometimes. Probably wait for a fluid change this winter--maybe trunion springs too, who knows maybe axle seals/gaskets/drain holes--you guys know the drill

Oh yeah, the deck height indicator doesn't seem to be working. Got to pull that plastic tunnel cover off and have a look--that thing is a pain to get out of there!

My grill is busted where it bolts on. I imagine I should go ahead and buy one while it is still available.

Are the adjustable seats on these pretty trouble free? For some reason the adjustment lever is held in place by a very heavy cable tie.

So, whats this gizmo on the screw you turn to adjust the mule drive belt. It looks awfully similar to a pic of my missing battery hold down that I saw in the parts book.:bigthink:

Yeah John... i'm pretty sure somebody put your batt hold down clip under your mule drive adjustment!!:beerchug::beerchug: not quite sure how that happened! :bigthink:I don't think the adj seats give any trouble.. I have two that don't.. the safety switches on both my "plastic" tractors are very sensitive though.. wife and kid run them occasionally so I haven't tried to modify or disconnect them..

I was and still am a die hard IH man.. swore I'd never own a CCC machine.. But I sure do like my 1782 and 2182!! I think you are well on the way to being converted!!:biggrin2::biggrin2: I put several IH emblems on the 1782.. Looks legit... and they do have a lot of IH heritage under that plastic!!:beerchug:

Good to hear you got it up and running/mowing John.:beerchug:
Don't know anything about all those switches, that's a good reason for me to stay with the IH and "older" CCC tractors.:ThumbsUp:

:bigthink: Sure is a battery hold down for a cyclops. Wonder what you find under there? Maybe the hole wore threw? There should be a built in "collar" on the pulley adjusting rod. The collar keeps its position on the outside of the mule drive. Share pictures if you ever tear into to it.

Lot of progress on the "plastic one" today. Removed the battery hold down from the mule drive belt tensioner. Don't ask cause we still don't know--both the hold down and the tensioner rod appear to be fine. I don't know how it got where it did or why, I'll just chalk it up to crazy PO mods. Anyway, the world is a safer place with the hold down now actually holding down the battery.

Changed the hydro filter. Moved the cable to the implement height indicator to a different hole--now it works.
Replaced the PTO switch. Confession time--do yourself a favor and don't open one of them up with the intention of trying to put it back together. Lets just say that switch is just mechanical inside with lots of little springs and steel balls. Must be one impressive assembly line jig at the factory.:bash2:
I sprung for a new grill. Glad I did--this one was not only broke off at the mounts, but the pcs that remained on the mower were broken into several smaller pcs. This would have been a gluing nightmare, and then it would have been too weak to last. Had a couple old pillows that dad uses on some of the farm tractors so he sits a little higher (bad knee). Used a couple of them to create a bed to lay the hood and grill on so as not to scratch them up. Put in 2 new headlights while I was at it. The hood and grill would shut, but hang for about 2 inches in the center so I had to "fit" them with a file. I removed the majority of the material using the end of the file as a scraper along the small stepped area of the grill where the hood lays in. Also dressed up from the inside where the hood lays on the grill It had been trimmed before, maybe it was from trimming "flash" at the factory? Anyway, 20 minutes of tweaking and it all works as it should and looks fine.:beerchug:
Long story short, I got to talking to Sam about bumpers, he put me in touch with Randy who promptly had a bumper sitting on my doorstep before I got the grill mounted. We installed the bumper, pretty simple other than a little slotting to get the holes lined up just right. The fab work on the bumper is REALLY NICE and won't take anything other than a brief going over (and that is optional) before it is painted. I'll worry about paint this winter. THANKS AGAIN, RANDY!:beerchug:
Also got the small dash insert that goes over the bulbs. Yeah I know, only 2 of mine work, but it looks much better with it! And if I get really bored this winter and decide to study the schematic a LOT..........:BlahBlah:

So it was quitting time, but the blades need sharpening so I took care of that--lets say the PO had some serious rocks in his yard.:bigeyes: Afterwards dad took it for a spin, its a little early for his opinion on it, but I doubt it will beat his opinon of the 2072. That's fine by me.

So, a couple quick questions. Anybody got a pic handy of what I am missing on the deck stop? Parts book shows springs, roll pins, nuts, and a clevis pin. I'm sure I can make it, just trying to do it the easy way--copy someone else.:biggrin2:

Also--noise. Are these engines louder than Magnums and Onan's--if not,, maybe the guts of my muffler are burnt out? Also, this is the loudest deck we have--way louder than Habans, 50c, 44. Yes it has been greased. Is it loud by nature of its design or do I have bearigns going out?

Oh yeah, think the shutoff on the carb is bad/tampered with. Yesterday was the first time we ran it with the hood and sideshields. When dad cut it off, it tried to "diesel" for a couple seconds.:bigthink:

My command ch20 in my 2084 requires to be running at least half throttle or more on shutdown to prevent backfiring and dieseling.

Thanks to OCC member Sorner, I got the part needed to hook the deck/implement stop rod back up. For whatever reason Cadet figured the rod needed to have a LH threaded nut for a jam instead of using a lock nut. This is a 1/4 thread while the rest of the rod was 3/8 (I think). Anyway, some unsuspecting fellow twisted that end of the shaft off trying to remove the nut--hard to fault whomever it was.
Anyhow, got the stop set and tweaked on the deck to level a tad better. Really got to dig into that over the winter as some of the leveling bolts appear severely worn. Certainly got to work on the gauge wheels--LOTS of wear.
Just a quick question, are the front gauge wheels on the deck supposed to be offset like this? One is VERY close to a tire.:bigthink:

I think I remember there is a fore/aft mounting for that deck. Super to the rear, GT to the front. The arms that hold the casters are supposed to point straight ahead on the right side as yours do. Left side should be angled outboard. If the tires don't rub, you should be okay.

Your earlier question about deck noise. You shouldn't hear any bearing noise at all. Just wind noise.