1872 Rebuild & Repower
 

I am stating this thread to document the rebuild repower of my 1872. I bought this tractor with the idea of making it a dedicated snow blower tractor and after reading CRY2872's thread on his 1872 Kohler 28 EFI Repower I decided that I wanted to build this one into my main worker tractor with a Command 28 Hp EFI engine, three point hitch, three valve hydraulics with front and rear remotes and separate valves for three point and belly lift. I plan on painting it 2150 red with a black frame and belly and silver wheels. I am thinking of having custom decals made I think I will badge it as a 2882. I will then dedicate my other 1872 that is powered by a 23 Hp Kohler Command as my snow blower tractor.
Here are some pictures of what I am starting with.

It looks much better in pictures than it really is.
Attachment 73507
Notice the wall switch that was used to engage the pto. Also has new drive shaft with disconnect clutch. Problem is he ran it much to long with bad rag joints and ruined input shaft and coupler on hydro.
Attachment 73508
It does have a new PTO clutch.
Attachment 73509
Dented and cracked seat pan. I will replace with one from parts 782.
Attachment 73510
Mag 18 that is getting replaced with EFI motor. I worked on it today. replaced the coil assy, cleaned the carb, changed the oil and got it running well. The previous owner had it rebuild and he showed me the receipts. I pulled one head and it has been bored oversize and has had the valves and seats ground. I put an oil pressure gauge on it and it carry's 45 PSI at an idle hot and 70 at WOT. I think it will be ok to put in a 782 I have with a blown motor that is to good to part out The 782 will be getting a sickle bar mower and will be a dedicated ditch mower.
Attachment 73511
Pressure washed so I can trial fit engine. Mounting plate from 1864.
Attachment 73512
Missing bolts from rear end and damage to housings. I will replace with a cast iron rear or use rear from 1864 that has the 30mm axles. Either way I will have to swap reduction gears from the super rear end.
Attachment 73513

Attachment 73514
Old and new engines,
Attachment 73515
A second parts 782 I bought last week for sheet metal, dash plastic, grill and seat pan for 1872, and also any thing else I might need such as cast iron rear. Motor is blown and it is not a IHC made tractor. It has a replacement pto clutch and a new driveshaft so I will have some parts on it to use on my sickle bar 782. Will probably use the tires also on it. Tomorrow my grandson will be helping me tear down the parts tractor and also put the Mag 18 in the other 782. Right now I have three cub cadets and my 57 Chevy project in the shop and it is getting crowded. As soon as the two 782's are gone I can start on the 1872.
I welcome any suggestions or constructive comments.
Later
Tom

Looking forward to seeing this come together.

I'm looking forward to following this thread!! Take lots of pictures and keep us posted!! Looks like a great project!! :beerchug:

Great, another build to follow:beerchug: Looking forward to the progress reports...:popcorn::popcorn:

Thanks guys, I will post progress reports as time allows. Won't be long before I have to start spring planting on the farm. I hope to get the engine wired up and running before I start just to check it out in case there is an issue with it as it was a warranty engine that was repaired by a dealer.
Today the grandson and I will do the teardown on the parts 782 and hopefully I can get the Mag 18 running in the other 782, guess I better get off this computer and get busy.
Later
Tom

Good luck, look forward to seeing it come together.

Here is a complete rear and pump out of a 2182.

Cub Cadet super rear end complete - $650 (Statesville)

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/grd/5518236084.html

I checked the phone number and it's being sold by one of our inactive members. Methos AKA Duke Carpenter

Looking forward to your progress and updates!

Sam, thanks for the tip on the rear. Before I buy anything I need to tear down my hydro pump and rear and see if I can salvage or repair it. I also have a Cyclops rear from a 1864 that I can possibly swap my reduction gears into or if my input shaft is salvageable swap my ring and pinion and carrier into a cast iron rear I have. Yesterday the grandson and I tore down the parts 782, I then set the Command engine in the 1872 and put the rear fenders, hood and grill from the 782 on it to see what it will look like red. Think I am going to like it. We then set the Mag 18 in the sickle bar 782 and changed the filter and drained the rear and refilled it with fresh Hytran. Today hope to start it up and if all checks out, replace the sheet metal and drive it out of the shop. This will giver me some working room to work on the 1872. After I get a chance to start the Command and check it out I will then finish dissembling it and prepare the frame for painting. Will post some pictures tonight when we get back in from the shop.
Later
Tom

Tom

If you go that route you will need to swap both the reduction gear and the pump output shaft. The shaft for the super is different between the GT pumps and the SGT pumps.

Sam, I was doing some research last night on beefing up a Cub Cadet rear and came across this site. Lots of great tips on parts swapping. Looks like the way to go is cast iron case, two piece carrier with ring and pinion from cast rear, 30 mm axles and bore axle tubes to accept larger axles and seals. I would then swap my SGT pump output shaft and reduction gear and use the hydro pump from the 1864 Cyclops. I have all the parts to do the swap, SGT rear, 1864 Cyclops rear with good hydro pump and large axles and carrier and a 782 cast iron rear, just would have to buy the necessary gaskets,seals and bearings. Boring the axle tubes for the larger bearings will not be an issue for me as I have both a lathe and vertical mill. Since my goal is to just get the frame painted and the motor running before I start spring farming I will do the rear end swap later this summer.
Later.
Tom

http://www.************************.com/transaxl.htm

Tom

The link doesn't work. My guess is you tried to post something from Brian Millers site. Post's from Brian Millers site are not allowed on OCC.

You seem to be convinced that the cast iron rear is the hot setup so be my guest. Me I'm all good with the Aluminum rears with the big tubes, bearings and axles. Stick a set a SGT braces on it and be Happy. But again that's just me.

On the cast iron rear issue I was only trying to add some weight and use parts that I already have here without having to spend extra money. It seemed to be a easy to add about 60 lbs to the rear. I guess the easiest way to go is put my SGT pump output shaft and reduction gear in my Cyclops rear and add a set of braces. If I do this I could sell the cast rear and recoup some of my cost. Thanks for your input and advice it is appreciated.
Tom

Tom

It's been a long day. I'll put together a suggestion on how I would deal with what you have that will give you the best results. It will have to wait till tomorrow.

That said tell me what you intend to do with this tractor so that I can come up with the best recommendation.

Sam, the tractor will be mainly be used as a mower, but I will be installing my three point hitch from my other 1872. I have a 10 inch plow for it for the garden and will be building a 48 inch box scraper with adjustable ripper teeth to grade my very long driveway. I plan on a 3 valve hydraulic set up so I can control the three point separate from the belly lift. It will be fully restored and painted but I plan on working it. I figured with the 28 HP EFI Command motor that I should beef it up. The previous owner took the tunnel cover off of it and I was amazed how much the frame twists with out it bolted in place. No wonder the rear housing is broken. Thanks
Tom

Those braces Sam suggested will take ALL the twist out of the frame.. I noticed my 1782 twisting a lot... all the bolts were in place and tight.. The SGT brace kit was super easy and made it feel like a different tractor!! :beerchug: Just my two cents worth... The thought of a cast rear is nice but I really don't think it's worth the trouble... But at the end of the day it's your project so do as like...

Great project!! It will be a great worker no matter which way you go.!! :American Flag 1:

:IH Trusted Hand:

Tom

Based on what you have for parts to work with, if it was my tractor I would use the rear that you have from the 1864. You will need the reduction gear out of the 1872 and you will also need the pump output shaft from the 1872.

Super reduction gearing 6.8 : 1
Reduction gear 68 Teeth
Pump Shaft 10 Teeth

GT reduction gearing 5.5 : 1
Reduction gear 66 Teeth
Pump Shaft 12 Teeth

So you'll be disassembling 2 pumps and 2 transmissions and making 1 out of the 2.

I'd also pull the axle tubes off the 1864 rear and drill oil return holes at the bottom.

I'd replace every seal and gasket in both the pump and trans.

A set of SGT braces.

I'd replace the drive shaft with one from a 2084 or 2284.

Not sure I'd go for as much engine as you're planning on doing but it would be cool.

Look for a muffler for a 2284 and the heat shields. Heat shields are hard to find. Try the sponsors for the drive shaft, muffler and heat shields.

When it's all done you would end up with basically a 2284 with a steel hood and no tilt steering.

Holler if you have any questions. I have a ton of info on these things. :beerchug:

That sounds like a good plan. I was kind of thinking along the same lines.
As far as the engine, I got it at a good price so I will use it. I think the EFI will be cool. I have the muffler for the Command EFI and need to use it because of the Q2 sensor in it. I built a heat shields for both of my other Command conversions that I done and it they look good almost like the Magnum shield so I will do the same for this one. I have a CV joint drive shaft in my other 1872 that I will swap into this tractor and use the one from this one in the snow blower 1872 because it has the easy start disconnect and it is new. I have the complete tower and power steering unit from the 1864 and have entertained thoughts of trying to adapt the tilt wheel to the 1872. I can cut up a spare 782 tower I have and see if I can make the tilt wheel work with it. Also been wondering how it would look with the Cyclops fenders and adjustable seat. Guess I could mock it up before I paint it. better stop thinking and just get busy.
Thanks for the tips.
Later :beerchug:
Tom

When I did my cast rear, I picked up a cast rear from a 12xx or 14xx I believe. Swapped the internals/axles/hydro pump from the 1872 rear in to the cast one. No need to bore the axle tubes since the axle diameter is the same at the bearing surface. Pretty easy swap as long as you keep all the SGT internals together. Setting backlash, ect. was the hardest part.

Good prices are the best prices. You'll love the EFI. I think the EFI setup I sent you mentioned it, but don't forget to wire in a MIL (malfunction indicator light) for trouble codes. My kit came with an LED which I install in an existing hole on the dash. Good luck!

My engine came with the MIL that I will install in the existing choke cable hole. I have the engine setting in the frame using a 1864 mounting plate and have the clamping diodes and a electric fuel pump so I should be able to start it up to check oil pressure etc. If it checks out ok I can notify the seller and then I will finish tearing the tractor down so I can paint the frame. I just wanted to be sure the engine is ok as it was a warranty job and he repaired it but never started it.
Later
Tom

Where is the best place to buy the Kohler EFI engines? Been thinking about taking the 18hp one in my 1872 & put it in my 682, & put a 23 EFI back in.

I bought my ECH680 from Opeengines.com
Great people to work with.

I got mine through SEW. It was a warehouse left over deal. They seem to pop up every once in a while.

Mine came from a Craiglist ad. A small dealer bought two of these engines as warranty take outs. They had been damaged by someone overtightening drive belts on a wood chipper and burning out the PTO end main bearing. Engine had 7 hr's running time before it went down. He replaced the crankshaft and closure plate. Before I found it I checked and SEW had some EFI take outs for sale.

Finally got some time to work on the 1872 EFI project. I mounted the JD triple hyd valve so I could check for clearance to the fuel tank and also installed the drive shaft so I can get the electric fuel pump mounted to the rear of the firewall under the tank and not have it interfere with the drive shaft. Looks like it will all clear ok. I think I will put a guard under the pump just in case the driveshaft would lose a rag joint. I also decided to remove the Hydrostat pump to see if I can fix the input shaft leak. If I can I will repair the damaged axle housings by tig welding the broken bolt boss area. If needed I can use my mill to face them off. This will allow me to keep the existing rear end and not have to swap a bunch of parts with my spare cyclops rear. Tomorrow I hope to get the fuel system finished up and then run the wiring needed to run the computer for the EFI. I hope to get it running by the weekend. If it all checks out I will then install the 3 point hitch from my other 1872 and get the rear hyd cylinder mounted up. Since it keeps raining and I cannot farm I might as well work on this project. I will post some progress pictures tomorrow.
Later
Tom

Well we got all of our spring work finished and I had a chance to work on the 1872 rebuild. I installed the engine so I could test fire it to check it out. It started up on the second turn and sat there and idled perfectly. it carries 50 lbs oil pressure and sounds great. It is very quiet so it will be a good mowing tractor. I mounted the EFI computer and the associated fuses and relay to the firewall and wired it enough to start it. Made a bracket for the electric fuel pump on the firewall under the tank and then added a return line to the tank. My next project is to remove the rear end and see if I can save it. If the input shaft on the hydro is not scored or damaged I will repair the hydro with new seals and a input bearing and see if I can tig weld the damaged rear axle housing. I would rather repair what I have than swap a bunch of parts to make the Cyclops rear I have work in the super. Here are some progress pictures.
Enjoy.

Puel pump mounting
Attachment 75325
Return line fitting installed and pressure regulator
Attachment 75326
3 spool JD hydro valve mounted
Attachment 75327
Hydro valve levers
Attachment 75328
Right side engine view with computer and wiring
Attachment 75329
Left side engine with fuel filter. The filter is from Kohler and is rated for EFI fuel pressure. I plan on building a mounting bracket for it on the fuel tank mount strap.
Attachment 75330

Great job! Thanks for the update pics.

It's gonna be awesome!!:beerchug:

Thanks guys. If it all works out the way I vision it, it should be a really great running/driving grass killer when done. Today I hope to get the rear end removed and tore down to see if I can save it.

Oh it will be! Looking good!:beerchug:

Today I removed the rear end and tore the hydro down to check out why it was leaking from the input shaft. The previous owned had ran it with a bad rag joint and because it was wobbling it ruined the input shaft where the needle bearing rides on it I think he must have drove it until it finally ruined the drive shaft as it came with a new one installed.. I then decided to dissemble my Cyclops rear and do some parts swapping between it and the Super rear. I will swap the hydro output gear and reduction gear from the Super into the Cyclops rear. Should be a good beefy rear end when done as it will then have the larger axles in. I will need to order some new axle bearings and seals for the Cyclops rear tomorrow. Will get some pictures when it is all tore down. I did get a couple of hours on the number 1 1872 mowing this afternoon.

Not much progress on the 1872 lately. Had to get the combine ready for wheat harvest and then cut the wheat. Finished up early this week and then had to do some repairs on the mower deck on 1872#1 so I can mow grass, It was getting very noisy. Will finish them up today and then try to finish up the rebuild of the rear end. I did get a chance to het the hydro reassembled using the best parts of the one from the 1864 and the 1872 units. Have a good one.
Tom

Hard to believe it has been over five months since I posted any progress on the 1872 rebuild. I finally got some time to devote to it. I bought a pair of 26X12X12 tru powers and some 10-1/2 inch wide rims. Also a set of 18X8.50X8 V61's for the front. Got the rear rims welded together and sandblasted the fronts. Painted them right before supper today. Also got the three point sandblasted and painted. I have it set up with its own lift cyl. I am planning on using the rear fuel tank and fenders from the 1864 I parted so I will have the low fuel fill. I might see if I can also make the tilt steering from the 1864 work on it. When I am done I will have the tractor that should have been built instead of the plastic cyclops. I plan on painting it red like the 82 series with custom decals for it. I forgot to bring in my camera so I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

Time for some pictures of the progress on the 1872.
Rear end ready for assy.
Attachment 81036
Rear end assembled, rebuilt hydro attached ready to install. I used the 1864 rear end with the super reduction gears installed, the hydro is a combination of the best parts of the super and the 1864. I installed all new seals, wheel bearings and gaskets and drilled the oil drainback holes in the center section. To get the correct back lash and preload on the ring gear I had to remove one shim from the carrier bearings and shift some shims around. The doner 1864 was bought new by my uncle and as far as I know it had never been worked on so it was set up wrong from the factory. Must have been a Friday afternoon build!
Attachment 81038
Three point with reworked lift cyl mount and painted. Lift cyl is installed to the right side mounting plate behind back plate I will now have split lift hydraulics.

Attachment 81040 Attachment 81041
26X12X12 trupowers, 18x8.50x8 V61's. Rim's sandblasted & epoxy primered.
Attachment 81042 Attachment 81043
Rims painted with IH 935 white with Valspar hardener.
Attachment 81044
Mocked up with new tires and Cyclops fenders and seat pan.This will allow me to use the rear fuel tank, gettin to old to lift them five gal gas cans to the front tank.
Attachment 81045

I tried to see if I could use the tilt steering from the 1864 but with my three spool hydraulic valve and the fact that the dash plastic from the 1864 is wider and shaped different than the 1872 sheet metal makes it impractical. My next project is to rework the firewall taking the offset out of it and then make a battery box mount under the hood like used on a 782D. I also need to move my electric fuel pump and inlet fuel filter back under the rear fender pan so it does not have to suck fuel a long distance. Hope to get this done before Saturday evening. I have an old tilt,telescope GM column I may see if I can shorten and adapt to the cub dash. this will put the tilt mechanism above the dash. I have a spare tower and a broken dash face plate I can cut up to see if it will work. Have a good one
Tom

Very nice work Fred!! I like the way this one is headed!!:beerchug:

I know how it is when you have to shove a project in the corner!! Feels good to be able to get it back out after a long slumber!!:biggrin2:

Im interested to see how the dash and steering work out! Keep us posted!!:beerchug::beerchug:

I did make some progress on the project but no pictures. I modified the firewall to take the old fuel tank step out of it then trimmed the height down to match, this will also eliminate the air cleaner clearance issue when installing a command engine in a 82 style tractor. I will be putting my battery under the hood on the right side and that will leave a space on the left for a small tool box. I started routing my hyd lines for the triple valves and also redid the control levers for the valve stack. I had originally had just used some tubing that slipped together to make them but the fit up was poor and they had a lot of play in them so I turned down a piece of tubing the get a good fit up and now they work very well. I also started blasting some of the Cyclops parts I am using like the tunnel cover and fuel tank/fender support and the powder coat on them is almost impossible to remove as it it very rubbery. I tried to sand down the spots where the powder coat had flaked off and it does not sand well. MTD used a very tough powder coat but their surface prep leaves a lot to be desired. Applied properly powder coat should not flake off. In my last job I managed a powder coat line and and we had to pass military requirements Our powder did not flake off. Today I hope to finish the hyd lines and move my electric fuel pump and pressure regulator back to the fender support and get the fuel lines ran. If all goes well I should be able to start it up and tesst out my rebuilt hydro and rear end by the weekend. Next I have to build a new wiring harness for it.
Later, Tom

Looking real nice! Keep at it!

Yesterday my sign maker called me to let me know he had the drawings done on my custom decals for my 1872 project. I used the ideas that bocephus1991 had but made mine slightly narrower and left off the hydro lettering. I think they are going to look great so I also had him make a second set for my other 1872 with the 23 hp Command engine swap. I will then have a 2872 and a 2372 when both are painted red. Should have the decals later tomorrow. I may have to get the hood painted so I can see what they will really look like.
Later,
Tom

:popcorn:.