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duckpin 03-16-2016 09:32 PM

Model 1000 information
 
Hi,

I am looking for some advice about a IH CC 1000 that is for sale near me. This one has sat in the same spot for the last couple of years at a small engine repair shop. I've driven past it almost daily and it looks quite forlorn. I always have been interested in IHCs, so I've wondered if it ever would be sold.

I am moving in with my fiancee soon, and her yard takes almost two hours to mow using the push mower (probably about an acre or so in size). So, I thought the time is right to look at a riding mower and I thought about this one. Stopped by to look at it today. The guy said he bought it for $300 "but would sell it for $350." It honestly has not moved in quite a while. A friend who works at the nearby tractor store will be coming by to check it out as well, so that will help. But I still have some questions:

a) I would like to restore it over time. How difficult is it to find replacement parts for the 1000? Where can I find correct paint? Decals?

b) What are some key things to look at while I consider it? What are the rust areas? It seems to have just surface rust right now.

c) Is it unrealistic to think that this could be pressed into service so quickly after it has sat for so long?

d) Is the rear bagger and engine an IH implement? Or is that aftermarket? It is a Briggs and Stratton engine. That system is kind of what got me interested in this one in the first place.

e) What about the lights? I haven't seen a model 1000 with lights like that. The orange ones by the seat would be coming off; I don't think those are original, either.

f) Is there a site that lists the implements available for this model?

I have done some cursory research on this site (very comprehensive, by the way). It has a slot for the creeper but it is not there (which I hear they all had). Is the creeper worth it? It also has a front PTO.

I think that is it for now. Please share with me your experiences with this model, and if it is worth it. I'm kind of new at this, so I'm not really sure if it is something worthwhile. I do love International Harvesters, so if I can rescue this one, I would. Just want to make sure it's fiscally responsible!

Thanks,
-Brian

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1478/...b7847ab4_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/...7b502237_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1550/...b4e32115_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1617/...56f27b47_c.jpg

J-Mech 03-16-2016 09:49 PM

You asked a mouth-full of questions..... but I'll only ask two.

1.) What kind of budget are you willing to work within? Be honest.
2.) What is your ability level? Shoot straight, no BS.


Not all had creepers. They all had a front PTO.

duckpin 03-16-2016 09:56 PM

1) Probably $750 to $1K at the start. As time goes on, that number would go up.

2) This would be my first mower to work on. I restored a 1967 Land Rover, so there is that. I feel I can attempt the majority of things myself (though I have never really worked on engines) and feel comfortable doing most of the work myself.

Yosemite Sam 03-16-2016 10:06 PM

There are tons of parts available for the IH built Cub Cadets although some parts can get expensive (The 1000 is an IH built Cub Cadet).

Cub Cadet 1000's came with a 10 hp Kohler engine, if this one in fact has a B & S engine, I would shy away from it because it is most likely a conglomeration of unknown parts, not to mention that the B & S engines weren't nearly as well built as the Kohler engines.

It is however possible that this is actually a Cub Cadet 1100, they were originally outfitted with a B & S engine. On the down-side, most Cub Cadet enthusiasts don't consider an 1100 to be a real Cub Cadet.

In any event, I wouldn't pay that much for a non running 1000 with a B & S engine or an 1100 (but I'm kind of a cheap-skate).

The bagger attachment is kind of a cool thing though, depending on its condition, it could be worth a couple hundred bucks to the right person.

Stop by and tell the guy, "I'm on my way to the ATM to get some money, you get that thing running and I'll take it when I get back". Then see how much the price drops.


Edit, I misread the original post, I thought you said that the tractor had a B & S engine, My mistake...

Jeff in Pa 03-16-2016 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam (Post 367888)
There are tons of parts available for the IH built Cub Cadets although some parts can get expensive (The 1000 is an IH built Cub Cadet).

Cub Cadet 1000's came with a 10 hp Kohler engine, if this one in fact has a B & S engine, I would shy away from it because it is most likely a conglomeration of unknown parts, not to mention that the B & S engines weren't nearly as well built as the Kohler engines.

It is however possible that this is actually a Cub Cadet 1100, they were originally outfitted with a B & S engine. On the down-side, most Cub Cadet enthusiasts don't consider an 1100 to be a real Cub Cadet.

In any event, I wouldn't pay that much for a non running 1000 with a B & S engine or an 1100 (but I'm kind of a cheap-skate).

The bagger attachment is kind of a cool thing though, depending on its condition, it could be worth a couple hundred bucks to the right person.

Stop by and tell the guy, "I'm on my way to the ATM to get some money, you get that thing running and I'll take it when I get back". Then see how much the price drops.

The way I read his post, the bagger is powered by a B&S . That's how my Trac vac system is.

duckpin 03-16-2016 10:10 PM

Correct, the bagger motor is a B+S. The engine under the hood is a Kohler 10HP.

Jeff in Pa 03-16-2016 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duckpin (Post 367890)
Correct, the bagger motor is a B+S. The engine under the hood is a Kohler 10HP.

Welcome to OCC Duckpin :beerchug:

Jeff

duckpin 03-16-2016 10:19 PM

Thanks, Jeff!

olds45512 03-16-2016 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 367891)
Welcome to OSS Duckpin :beerchug:

Jeff

What's oss? :bigthink:

J-Mech 03-16-2016 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duckpin (Post 367885)
1) Probably $750 to $1K at the start. As time goes on, that number would go up.

2) This would be my first mower to work on. I restored a 1967 Land Rover, so there is that. I feel I can attempt the majority of things myself (though I have never really worked on engines) and feel comfortable doing most of the work myself.


If it's sat outside that long, you may spend all that money and it still not be usable. That's assuming that you pay the $350 asking price. That leaves $400-$650 to get it running. Mainly because of it's age and the fact it sat so long, I wouldn't assume that the engine is good. You can wrap up $350 in an overhaul depending on machine shop prices. Then there's the clutch and rear end, deck..... on and on. Depending on what's wrong, it's possible to make a usable machine for that price. It's also possible to spend much more before it's good. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just shooting straight.

Like others said, basically all parts are available, even if it's used. All the main components are rebuildable and parts are readily available.

With the Peco vac on it, it may be worth $350, but that's pushing it pretty hard IMHO.

Jeff in Pa 03-16-2016 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 367893)
What's oss? :bigthink:

These 60 hour weeks are messing with my keyboard :bash2:

john hall 03-16-2016 10:54 PM

Check every spindle on the deck for wobble. You'll probably have to get down on the ground and reach under it and grab the blades. How are the belts and the two front idler pulleys? Does the deck show signs of rusting out and how are the gauge wheels? Are the tires holding air and is the seat useable? Turn the steering wheel and watch for lost motion in the front axle, spindles and ball joints. These are some of the more common repairs. Don't forget you'll be needing a $40 battery.

With all the add on lights and the nice vacuum system, someone once appeared to care quite a bit for this machine. My concern is why did a repair shop buy it and not fix it for resell?

Terry C 03-16-2016 10:56 PM

If you can't hear the tractor run there is no way I'd go more than 200, bagger or not. I am of the gather them all crowd but unless you really want that vac I wouldn't give what he wants.

duckpin 03-16-2016 11:11 PM

Thanks, all, for your replies to this point. I am hoping to have some concrete answers once I bring my friend over for his two cents, because he can tell me what the deal is.

J-Mech, you bring up some valid points and I thank you for being a straight shooter. Having never dealt with riding mowers before (apart from my father's), I am not really sure what to find. So this helps. I also have my wedding this summer, which needless to say will be depleting the bank account all on its own. I won't know anything about the engine until we fire it up, and that would be a deal breaker (well, that and if the frame is shot). Until then, game on. If it checked out, my plan would be to carry $275 in bills and say, take this now and I'll take it with me. This repair shop is one of those that has tons of used, broken-down equipment everywhere ... which makes me think he just wanted to flip it.

John Hall, I did not get down to see under the deck. I really just did a cursory look ... battery is there (dead, obviously), transmission shifts. It seemed like all the parts were there, but I'll find out more in the coming weeks. I forgot to check how big the deck is. Belts were there, too, but that would be the first thing I replace. One last thing is that the tires are bald and would have to be replaced.

Thanks,
Brian

finsruskw 03-17-2016 08:37 AM

Inspect the clutch closely. Lot$ of drive train $$ can be spent there. The 3 pin driver is $125 by itself!! They are notorious for cracking. Look for leaky axle seals. There should be side panels for it somewhere, make sure you get them but it would not be a deal killer for me. Make sure the engine is not stuck and has an air cleaner on it. Check the shift lever to be sure it is not broken at the cone and you can shift through all gears easily. The cone to lever fix is doable but care needs to be taken to get it centered properly before welding. I just repaied on on a 126 and it took 2 tries to get it right.

The 100's are great little tractors. At present, I have a shredder mounted on mine and I also plow with it at plow days. When it's at 100% you're gonna love it!!

You have to love these little tractors. But they can be real money pits! Especially if you are not good with tools and have to rely on someone else for repairs etc.

Good luck!

Sam Mac 03-17-2016 09:00 AM

Brian

Where are you in CT? I used to live in Watertown.

Plenty of Cubs for sale in CT, Just get on Craigs list and type Cub Cadet in the search box.

Bob95065 03-17-2016 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw (Post 367922)
Inspect the clutch closely. Lot$ of drive train $$ can be spent there. The 3 pin driver is $125 by itself!! They are notorious for cracking. Look for leaky axle seals. There should be side panels for it somewhere, make sure you get them but it would not be a deal killer for me. Make sure the engine is not stuck and has an air cleaner on it. Check the shift lever to be sure it is not broken at the cone and you can shift through all gears easily. The cone to lever fix is doable but care needs to be taken to get it centered properly before welding. I just repaied on on a 126 and it took 2 tries to get it right.

The 100's are great little tractors. At present, I have a shredder mounted on mine and I also plow with it at plow days. When it's at 100% you're gonna love it!!

You have to love these little tractors. But they can be real money pits! Especially if you are not good with tools and have to rely on someone else for repairs etc.

Good luck!


I agree. I just put a clutch in my 1000. I know the history of that machine since new and have used it since the mid 1980’s. It doesn’t look expensive until you get into it. It seems like everything casts $50 – Throw out lever, throw out bearing, hanger bracket, etc. It adds up quick. The flex plate looked good thank goodness.

Quietline (1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650) tractors have engines that are rubber-mounted. The rubber fails then the engine moves. This puts stress on the clutch and causes premature failure. This is what takes out the flex plates. Search the board for “cradle mod” and do that first. BTW the rubber isolators aren’t cheap. Last time I checked they were $28 a corner.

I replaced my axle seals and gaskets on my 1000 when I got it back 3 years ago. It wasn’t bad or expensive. Mine had the original gaskets seals from 1977. That’s a good time to put some fresh Hytran in there too.

Others have pointed out that the side panels are missing. The lower grille screen is missing too. No big deal unless you want it original. These parts aren’t hard to find. My 1000 is all original. I like them that way.

My 1000 mowed a 2 acre lawn in suburban South Chicago from 8/77 until 1/14. The engine hasn’t been rebuilt and to the best of my knowledge all that has been done to it is replaced a snapped spoil pin at the back of the main spring on the driveshaft, replaced the brushes in the starter, replaced the coil, replaced the seat, transmission service (gaskets, seals, Hytran), mule drive pulleys, replaced the clutch (driveshaft, T/O bearing, lever, disc, teaser spring, TS cup, all new spoil pins, surfaced the pressure plates, and replaced the spherical bushings). Not bad for 38.5 years of regular service.

The 1000 is now living an easy life at the north end of Monterey Bay in Northern California with a 1450. It mows the lawn (really cuts weeds) this time of year and drags a box scraper. Its biggest job is to remind me of years gone by and people missed.

duckpin 03-17-2016 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 367925)
Brian

Where are you in CT? I used to live in Watertown.

Plenty of Cubs for sale in CT, Just get on Craigs list and type Cub Cadet in the search box.

I live in Old Lyme. The tractor is in North Franklin, where I was born and raised.

I'll know more once we try to get it running. How much compression should the engine have?

My goal would be to have this back into original condition —*so long as everything checks out. I'll keep the board posted as to what I find. I'm sure I'll have more questions if/when that happens. Thanks!

sawdustdad 03-17-2016 10:35 PM

I restored a 1000 a couple years ago. Here's the thread so you can see what you might run into:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...to_threadtools

It started out in similar condition to the one you are looking at, didn't run, was well used. I spent a lot restoring it, but I added a creeper, tires, etc. Probably put $3000 into it. Rebuilt the engine, repainted, replaced nearly all wear parts throughout. It's basically in new condition now. You won't need to go overboard like this, perhaps, but as I take things apart, I can't seem to put worn stuff back and wind up replacing more than really needed to get a functional tractor.

Good luck with your project. It's one of my favorite tractors (after my 108) and it is by far the quietest of all the tractors I've worked on. With a 42 or 44 inch mower deck, it would make quick work of your yard. I cut an acre an hour with the 108 and a 42 inch deck.

bocephus1991 03-17-2016 10:58 PM

It's not worth $350 in my opinion. If you could get it for $200 or less maybe. But I wouldn't expect to use it anytime soon. I see lots of work there. You want something to mow with I'd look elsewhere. Like was said lots other Cubs for sale. Get one of those, and if you want one to tinker with and restore get this one.

SS5150 03-18-2016 12:28 AM

Not to discourage you but I don't see it being worth the money or easy enough to get running and usuable quickly.

With the budget you mentioned you should be able to get a turn key worker.....and if you're really good still have some money left to pick this one up cheap and fix it as time and money allow. I'd only be in for this for $100 but I'm not a quietline guy.

Bob95065 03-18-2016 12:32 AM

I forgot to say: Check the muffler and box around it for damage. The box is notorious for breaking particularly the aluminum casting that bolts to the engine. Kirk Engines sells a "muffler crutch" that supports the casting so it doesn't break.

I forgot to say that once I got everything fixed on my 1000 it is one fine machine. There is no way I could buy something new that compares in quality to for what I have in it.

Bob

twoton 03-18-2016 08:40 PM

Hey duckpin, welcome to OCC! Like Sam said, there's a lot of Cubs down there in CT. I recently picked up a good running 1200 with mower deck, front blade and tire chains for 650. A great 1450 with mower deck, front blade and a virtually unused #2 tiller and tire chains for not much more and a 1650 with duel hydraulics, double wheel weights, a front blade and tire chains for the same 650. All run great. It's more fun to tinker with something that's in decent shape to start with. I'd keep looking.

Congratulations on your pending nuptials!:beerchug:

duckpin 03-19-2016 02:09 AM

One thing that I have come to appreciate about this forum is that you guys (and gals?) tell it like it is. It is either "stay away" or "be sure to look for X and X." That is a big help, especially since there may be other forums where 100 percent of the posters would just say, "get it at any cost." Instead of typing out 18 or so usernames, I will just say thanks to all of you for what you've written so far. I am grateful.

I guess I have a soft spot for the forgotten and neglected — the aforementioned Land Rover that I restored had one rusted-out frame boxed around another really rusted out frame, to go along with 296,000 miles, but a year later it had a new frame and I drove it to an all-British car show — and so having driven past this particular Cub for a few years, it's grown on me. It already is a step ahead of everyone else because it's an International Harvester. I still plan to have my friend look at it, and if it seems like something worth saving, maybe I'll offer $175 or $200 instead.

But if not ... if any of you have a comparable IH CC with the Peco vacuum (I really would like to have that implement), keep me in mind. In the meantime, I'll update this thread when there is more to share.

Thanks!
Brian

Bob95065 03-19-2016 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duckpin (Post 368141)
One thing that I have come to appreciate about this forum is that you guys (and gals?) tell it like it is. It is either "stay away" or "be sure to look for X and X." That is a big help, especially since there may be other forums where 100 percent of the posters would just say, "get it at any cost." Instead of typing out 18 or so usernames, I will just say thanks to all of you for what you've written so far. I am grateful.

I guess I have a soft spot for the forgotten and neglected — the aforementioned Land Rover that I restored had one rusted-out frame boxed around another really rusted out frame, to go along with 296,000 miles, but a year later it had a new frame and I drove it to an all-British car show — and so having driven past this particular Cub for a few years, it's grown on me. It already is a step ahead of everyone else because it's an International Harvester. I still plan to have my friend look at it, and if it seems like something worth saving, maybe I'll offer $175 or $200 instead.

But if not ... if any of you have a comparable IH CC with the Peco vacuum (I really would like to have that implement), keep me in mind. In the meantime, I'll update this thread when there is more to share.

Thanks!
Brian

I hear what you are saying. The 1450 I bought was a total basket case. It feels like I replaced everything but the frame and transmission which I still had to fix. I bought a big box of used parts from a member here and he told me, "I've parted out better tractors." CCs are rare here and I hated to scrap it. I have a soft heart for these old workhorses.

Our house is in the mountains above Santa Cruz, CA on 2 acres. Really I don't *need* a garden tractor but it is nice to have. I have a 1000 and a 1450.

Once the rain stops in the spring I may mow grass once or twice. It won't grow much until the rain starts in the fall. That being said if I wasn't at work right now I would be on my 1450 tilling a garden for my wife.

I also have a 1964 BSA motorcycle and a collection of old chainsaws. I like keeping old machines running and using them. Sites like this are encouraging in the days of throw-away machinery and people that don't know how to turn a wrench. I'll always have dirt under my nails.

Nailhead 03-19-2016 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duckpin (Post 368015)
I live in Old Lyme. The tractor is in North Franklin, where I was born and raised.

I'll know more once we try to get it running. How much compression should the engine have?

My goal would be to have this back into original condition —*so long as everything checks out. I'll keep the board posted as to what I find. I'm sure I'll have more questions if/when that happens. Thanks!

The reason I have my Cub Cadet are the memories of mowing my grandfather's meadow with his CC when I was in junior high in the '70's. My stepgrandfather used to give my sister & myself rides through the woods in the little wagon behind the CC he had when we were toddlers.

That meadow, and those woods are in Old Lyme. Ironic.

EDIT: Welcome aboard.

duckpin 03-28-2016 12:15 AM

Just an update on this. Brought a friend along from the local tractor shop and he was in agreement with most on here, that it probably was going to cost a lot more than my budget. We took a closer look at the mower deck and he was concerned about what shape the bearings would be in (there were no belts, and the blades were tough to move). Considering it hasn't moved in at least five years, there was no way to know about brakes, etc. I was going to try to get it started, but I think at this point I will look for something else.

Thanks to all who contributed. The search for an IH CC with a Peco vacuum resumes ...

twoton 03-28-2016 07:37 PM

hey duckpin, check this one out! Not to far from you.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/grd/5512552566.html

duckpin 03-30-2016 12:02 AM

Sweet! Thanks for sharing that. Looks much better than the original one I checked out.

iseeit2 06-07-2016 07:47 PM

Is there a Leaf Bagger that fits on a ih 1000 and where can I get one:bigthink::bash2:


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