Tell me it isn't the clutch
 

Because the one time I worked on my clutch I swore I'd never do it again. I'm not that good of a mechanic and it was a PIA.

My 108 stopped moving. I was just able to coax it into the garage by holding the clutch pedal at a certain, partially depressed spot. Snow is heavy, I lost my job and have literally NO money for parts and I have no heated space to work on it. So like I said...


...tell me it isn't the clutch. Unless whatever it is is even worse than the clutch...

From here it doesn't look like the clutch.

But, then again, you gave no usable information, no pictures.....:beatdeadhorse:

Read this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=35261

Link to the manual:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

I don't know what more I can say. I was plowing, and it stopped moving. The only way I could budge it back into the garage was by nursing/feathering the clutch pedal at a partially depressed spot and it creeped slowly into the garage, just barely.

I've told you everything I know.

I'd pull the tunnel cover off and check the spiral pins where the driveshaft goes into the rearend.

I'll do that as soon as I stop crying. :crap:

Beat me to it. Had the same issue and it was the rear most spiral pin on my drivshaft

Were you able to coax it into slow motion like I did?

I can't speak to his experience but I can tell you that when you push the clutch down it pushes the driveshaft back against the rearend and that extra bit of friction could be why it moved when you pushed the clutch down a bit. I'd go pull the cover and start the tractor and try to move the tractor, keep a good eye on the shaft going into the trans to see if its spinning, its usually the rear most pin that breaks first and if you replace one you better replace both.

I'm willing to bet it is the rear most Spiro pin also! Good luck with it

I'm a bit confused (not uncommon). But the shaft spins even when its in neutral
so I'm not sure what I'm looking for when its in gear

There should be a coupler at the back of the driveshaft with 2 pins in it, between that coupler and the rearend you should be able to see the shaft that goes into the trans. Start the tractor and put it in gear and let the clutch out, if the driveshaft spins but the shaft going into the trans doesn't then you have a broken pin.

Here's another data point. I can spin the shaft by wrench even when its in gear (engine off). When I rotate it, the collar at the rear pins also spins which seems to indicate (to my feeble mechanical brain) that the pins are good. But I could be way off

I was posting while you were but I think this addressed your point

OK I got it. Its the pins. Not the clutch! yay!!!:beerchug:

The coupler has 2 pins, if the one closest to the trans broke then the coupler will still spin but not the little shaft that goes into the trans. You have to try to drive the tractor to see if its turning, if the trans is in neutral it will spin either way because there no load on it.

anyone know what size they are? I don't want to drive to the hardware store in this mess unless I know they have em

Now that you have it figured out you need to replace them with the proper pins, if you use any old roll pin it will just snap off. They are a spiral pin and I get mine from the cub dealer, others have got them elsewhere but I don't have that info. Most hardware store don't carry the correct pins.

Tim, McMaster-carr got them but I have no part number to share..:Unknown:

I use some TSC roll pin on my Snow thrower, they break easily so I double them with smaller one in the center and this does the job, I didn't replace them yet!

PS: Happy for you it's was just a cheap fix Wayne :ThumbsUp:

snow won't wait for an order from Cub that I can't afford to order anyway. I think I've done this job before with hardware store pins, which is probably why I'm doing it again! But it lasted at least 4-5 years...I'll try the double pin trick if they have the right sizes

Depending on the rear coupler they are 1/4" X 1-1/4" or 1/4" X 1-1/2" SPIRAL pins.

DO NOT put a put a split roll pin in the hole or you will need to replace it again before you get to the end of the driveway.

The bad part about this is going to be getting the old pin out. You must either line the shaft and collar back up and try to drive the pin out (almost impossible to do) or remove the coupler and drive the three pieces out one at a time.

About the easiest thing to do is clean the shaft (just in front of the coupler) of any paint or rust, clean it well with a file or emery cloth.

Then put some kind of support under the shaft or coupler, and knock the good spiral pin out. With a twisting action, slide the coupler forward onto the drive shaft, once the coupler is clear of the rear stub shaft, move it up or to the side and twist it again to get it off the drive shaft. Support the stub shaft on the transmission and knock the broken pin out, then knock the two pieces out of the coupler.

DO NOT BEAT ON THE PINS WITHOUT SUPPORTING THE COUPLER FROM UNDERNEATH!

Good luck.

This is exactly what I did. I was mowing and the tractor just stopped moving forward. I couldn't understand why but wjen I pushed on the clutch to put her in neutral she jerked forward. Trial and error taught that if I keep my foot on the clutch with slight pressure (riding the clutch) I can get it back to the garage. Hope this helps

Those are extra strength 1/4" X 1 1/2" who may work ($5.56 for 10) or is it to much strong compare to steel heat treated one?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a419/=109nlm6

Call in the order Thursday and maybe you'll have the pins for the weekend if not Monday! Tuesday at worst> McMaster Carr is that good! I get all my stuff the next day.

Oooops. Too late! I already plowed the driveway. :biggrin2:


I got it lined up and drove the old one halfway out, then drove the new one in pushing out the other half.


That was timely advice...but a bit too late! :biggrin2: I did see it in time to support it as I drove the new one in though. The old one was also a rolled pin.


Thanks, I'll need it. I did a double roll pin trick as mentioned above, so hopefully I'll get at least another 5 years out of it before I have to do it again the right way.

I may be a little late, but "It isn't the clutch.".:biggrin2:

Glad you are back in action. Wow, as I read the thread, I noticed a lot of great advice from people in the know. Aren't we lucky to have such knowledgeable fellas in the forum.

Happy Cubbin',

Cub Cadet 123

That's why I pay a contribution to this forum!

....So Roland can pay them a cold one...Wen he don't spend all on lotteries! :OhOh:

My wifes parents like to play the poor me game all the time meanwhile they have a stack of $10 and $20 lottery tickets that's about 3ft high and there all losers, I don't know how much wasted money is there but it has to be several thousand dollars.:bash2:

Question... The Mil-Spec slotted pins are rated about the same, and you get twice as many for the same price. Would these work as well, or because the others are spiral wound, they are less prone to failure?

Edit: My bad... I was reading the price backwards... I thought it was 5 for $10 for the spiral rolled... My goof.

Spirol (spiral wound) stronger and take the pulse of the crank better. All other styles don't hold up.

That's awesome! Thanks! :ROTF2:

There is a deep well of knowledge here that never fails to help incompetent "mechanics" such as myself get back on track. :beerchug:

I use a 5/16" socket head capscrew turned down to 1/4" in a drill press leaving some threads just under the head. Tap one side of the coupler hole and no more beating spirol pins. Dave Kamp has a site that outlines the procedure.

spiral pin
 

where is the best place to buy spiral pins for the rear coupler on my 126

McMaster Carr is where I bought my last ones.

I actually asked my local case IH dealer to make up a kit of various sizes for a decent price....probably 30-40 in there....or mcmaster

I was mowing a year or two ago and suddenly it quit going forward (hydro.) I moved the handle and nada. Experience told me it was the pin in the driveshaft. Sure enough....crazy thing doesn't like to move unless the driveshaft is going. Glad you got yours fixed.

Sometimes they don't break, somtimes they just wiggle enough and then get flung out of the hole.

I suggest running a little loop of safety wire through the pin to keep that from happening.

Agony prevention, I call it

I have safety wire on mine, works!