Replacing flex discs on 982
 

Hello all. I'm a new member and this is my first post. I'm having a problem replacing the flex discs on the drive line. Mainly I can't figure out how to remove the drive shaft without shifting or (most likely from what I can see) removing the engine. The shaft extends into both the transmission and the engine couplers. There dose not seem to be enough play to move the shaft either way to effect removal. One good point about this is that if the discs were to experience catastrophic failure the shaft can't whip around destroying other components. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I am looking for a chassis service manual for the 982.

:Welcome2:

The easiest way is to unbolt the engine and slide it forward. Just remove the grille, remove the 6 bolts holding the engine down and them slide it forward. It should take anymore than 10 minutes.

AJ

Nice to see a fellow Canadian! :CanadianFlag::Welcome2:

I have swapped out drive shafts a dozen times without moving the motor. Pins are easily driven out of the shaft and couplers moved in on the shaft so the shaft can be removed.

Before anyone calls me an idiot for suggesting this method I will refer you for the MANUAL as the manual describes this method. (Yes I have been called an idiot for this suggestion)

You will need a good pin punch, not a standard flat punch.

Scott

The manual assumes you have a tractor that never spent a day of its life out in the elements. I don't like to hammer on things on the driveshaft unnecessarily since it isn't good for the bearings in the pump. I've done it both ways and found it easier to unbolt the engine and slide it forward than mess with the spirol pins unless the spirol pins are shot.

If it was me changing the discs, since you're going to have things apart anyway, i'd replaced all the spirol pins with new ones. I'd also take a look at the bushings on each end. If you need to change the discs because they're shot, most likely the bushings need replaced.

Our approach may be different.

Once I take a drive shaft out for the first time it goes back in as new. If the shaft is good (no wear) then it gets wire wheeled and painted, pins get wire wheeled and a good coat of anti-sieze prior to instalation, bushings get replaced, rags replaced, bolts replaced. I've yet to have one that I did not take back out for some reason or another and once replaced it's a breeze to remove with everything clean and rust free and anti-sieze on the pins.

Scott

Hey guys, this new member with the 982 lives in the same town I go to school in. I've seen his 982... Really nice tractor, but it needs some TLC, and he is doing VERY well at repairing it. I agree on sliding the engine forward. I had to do tat to me 782. It is not hard :)

:Welcome2::Cub2:

Sounds like this calls for some more input on the person posing the questions....:BB&YS::High5::WWP::WWP::WWP:

Matt is correct.

From my line of work, I have been to numerous service schools and the instructors tell ya how easy it is to take something apart. Of course their judgment is based upon working in a 70° Lab with new equipment. Working on a job site and after several years of use, is a WHOLE different situation.

Scott points out all the extras he does and that is commendable I do the same. BUT....the extras that Scott does was NOT done on the assembly line at the factory.

I would suggest, that the extras that Scott has pointed out, be done. You never know when something has to come apart for another reason. Easy serviceability just makes good sense to me.

I have learned a long time ago, that the design of a product was made by the Marketing Dept. The Marketing Dept tells the Engineers to make something to fit a certain price. I am sure we all have seen something and wondered if "they" would have spent another $.50 something would have been better. Just look at the L & G tractors of today. Now ya know.:biggrin2.gif:

The bottom line here is, there are a couple of different ways to get a drive shaft out depending upon the circumstances and the tools one has at hand.

:ThumbsUp: