Clutch Problem on my QL 1000
 

My Quiet Line 1000 has a problem with the clutch. When I push the clutch in, it shifts into gear fine, but the drive shaft locks up....very suddenly. I can still drive the tractor, but it is not right and I don't want to make a bad situation worse.

Is it the throw out bearing? The clutch plates look fine and it disengages fine.

Ideas on a fix? Help?

More than likely the front and or rear drive shaft bushings are worn out allowing the drive shaft to wobble. Only way to know for sure is to pull the shaft and check the bushings.

thanks for reply

I thought about disconnecting at the transmission and then at the engine e an dpulling the whole thing out. then maybe take the whole assembly to my local dealer for parts/repair.

its spring loaded and thts intimidating to me.

I have a 1000, also. I'm trying to imagine what you mean by "the drive shaft locks up"

Can you give us some more information? Does the tractor not move or does it move when you put it in gear? If the shaft is locked up, it sounds like the tractor would not move. But you say you don't want to use it which sounds like it does move.

Does the engine continue to run but the drive shaft doesn't turn?

I suspect there is a rag joint or spirol pin issue... have you looked at the drive shaft to determine what is going on?

sounds like the throw out bearing is froze and it locks up the drive shaft when the clutch is disengaged.

I think it IS the throwout bearing. If I can remove the whole clutch/driveshaft assembly, I will replace the whole thing with a drop in from

If I can get it out as an assembly, I will replace the entire assembly with a drop in from Zach Kerber. I don't have the tools to compress the spring myself. I talked to my dealer, he said $50 for the bearing and $75 labor. Might as well replace the soft plate too while its apart.

SO I will try to remove whole assembly and contact Zach Kerber.

Luke....with the clutch released, you should be able to spin the TOB by hand if the clutch is adjusted correctly, (has the correct amount of free play) I'd check that first.

The TOB only comes into play when the clutch is depressed.
If it spins, it is ok. The drive shaft may be binding on either end due to bad roller bushings, couplers, worn and collapsed ISO mounts or warped and stretched rag joints, or...a combo of all of the above.

The service manual covers disassembly of the clutch with the use of a vise.
I do it all the time, no fancy special tools req'd except maybe a soft drift or hardwood block and a punch to remove the spirol pin.

Fix it right the first time with the correct needed parts and you will never look back.

Good Luck

Waiting for the storm to break now, so fire away....

Thank you finsrusku

I am going up to farm property now and bring home tractor. You mention some very important observations.

I noticed my engine is vibrating more lately.

When clutch is released, all is normal. With clutch pedal depressed, shifts into and out of gear very well. BUT the driveshaft is locked when pedal is fully
depressed.

I will have more to report in about 5 hours. I still may mow with it just a little.

The drive shaft is supposed to stop turning when you depress the clutch. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to shift....

When the clutch pedal depressed, the drive shaft LOCKS UP and the rear tires LOCK UP.

That's because the clutch pedal is also the brake. It's supposed to do that...

Are you expecting it to shift like a car? You must come to a compete stop to change gears.

How does the clutch work as a brake, too? Can I adjust that back out so it works and shifts as it did the last time I used it? Without the "braking" feature on the driveshaft?

This problem appeared a day after hard mowing.

Ok, listen.... The driveshaft isn't supposed to LOCK UP, but it is supposed to stop turning. It should not grind when you go to put it in gear, and if the gears won't just slide in, you may have to let out on the clutch a little then depress it again to get it into gear. This is all very normal.

The brake is tied to the clutch pedal through a system of linkage. You can see it if you lay down and look up under the machine in the middle.

GO HERE: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644
Download that manual and read up on how to adjust the clutch and the brake. Look over all the parts and then come back WITH SOME PICS if you find anything wrong. We are all just guessing until you look at it and see if there is anything indeed wrong, and what that may be. You are going to have to go look.

Thank you, my driveshaft and entire drivetrain locks up when the pedal is pushed PAST the clutch disengage point.

Now read: my brakes are completely non functional and disconnected on the tractor.

Something is not right as it does not working like my other QL 1000 and my
other QL 1200.

I will try to the clutch in the opposite direction when you lose brake/clutch pedal.

motor mounts shot and binding things up because the driveline is out of alignment ?

I think you are exactly right. I mow/disc/drag harrow some VERY rough ground.

My wife mowed some real easy grass by our barn today and I told her to mow in 1st and stay off the clutch. It went ok.

Looks like an engine dismount in August.

you need to do it much sooner than august, if you run it with bad mounts you can break the 3 pin driver and its very expensive.

Mystery solved. I ran the mower for a couple of hours this morning. At first it ran great, just as it always had, no lock up or binding.

Then I hit some roots pretty hard with the blades. And suddenly it started again. Push the clutch in and the tractor comes to a screeching halt. Wheels and drivetrain lock up.

After careful examination, I found the throw out bearing severely worn, missing the cap and some balls too. So when I push the clutch in, puts the driveshaft in a bind and total lock up.

I need throw out bearing bad. And what a good time to do a complete update on the whole clutch system. I talked to Zach Kerber and will take his advice on various parts to buy.

Thanks to all for replys!