I've been thinking....
 

I've been thinking bout why my cub won't run recently, and I wonder if I screwed up big time. I had the engine apart during winter and got a new rod and decided to replace the piston as well. I didn't think about this before, but I never honed out the cylinder before I put in the new piston and rod and rings in.:bash2::bash2: So I'm not sure if this could be why it won't start and it's only been burping and farting. I still have lots to learn about this stuff. Don't mind my stupidity. :bash2:. Anyone got any suggestions or knowledge to share?

Is there any chance you had the cam gear timing incorrect when you reassembled the engine?(did you take it apart that far? ) Are your valves adjusted to the correct clearances? are they sticking open? Were the valves lapped in or at least cleaned well with a wire brush?

And is the tank topped off with fresh gas and do you have a nice clean spark plug, not a fouled one from too much fuel?

All of the above are just shots in the dark, but worth considering anyway.

EDIT: Did you make certain the ring gaps were offset from each other ? Lining them up would also be a reason for poor compression... Also not honing can cause poor compression and will cause oil smoking..You might want to pull the engine and get the cylinder honed before the season kicks off.

When I had the head off when I first got it the valves didn't stick but I didn't check for clearance and I'm pretty sure but not positive that I cleaned the valves. I guess it's time to tear her back down again. I didn't go as far as disassembling the timing gears and such. I just took out the connecting rod and piston. Everything else was in good shape. I totally forgot about honing til my uncle talked to me about him honing something else I can't recall. Well, at this point might as well strip her down and start restoring her. I'm going to create a different thread in the restoration section for tips and stuff. My last attempt at restoring a tractor went over poorly. :BangPC::bash2: But there's always a second chance, and I have a sand blaster this time.:biggrin2.gif:

sounds like you and me are in the same boat. "Merkel" would know all this secret stuff. my k161 broke hims little arm and scraped up the piston. so later on i will get it re-built. thats the beauty of these old tractors....you can fix anything. so in the mean time, i had another motor on the shelf and in no time flat i was back in the saddle again. these are addicting....when i needs me a part, i sometimes and up with a whole nother parts tractor to boot! good luck with your project. there are a few ideas to choose from as you decide how long you want it to be down! but for starters i would be doing my home work on every thing about it and what this site and folks have shared with us.! thanks, John.:bigthink:

I wish I could plop an engine right in there. Better yet I wish I had a few running spares on the shelf lol. But I unfortunately only have that one 12hp kohler sitting in my cub. My other Kohler's a 17 twin. Imagine that in there. Off topic but yesterday while driving I saw a gray painted cub and it had a twin cylinder engine in it. Poor thing just sits there.

It's not rocket science. So, don't get all bent out of shape trying to figure it out.
The quickest, easiest, and it just so happens....THE RIGHT way to figure it out is to pop it out....
Yeah, spend the whopping 1/2 hour to take it out, bolt it down on a wooden bench (I use lag screws), and take it apart, down to where you previously took it apart.
Lay the parts out, as you take it apart.
Then check it, and reassemble, one piece at a time, checking all your clearances.
I always check, double check, then triple before buttoning up.
While on the bench, use jumper cables and start it up.
Do your timing, and even adjust the carb.
shut it down, restart it. Get the bugs out n the bench.

It's also imperative that you follow the service manual closely when disassembling and reassembling the engine to help ensure that you don't mess something up.

if learning something were EAZY, we would not need teachers. pretty clear and cut-dry? i'am sorry to have given you a answer to my problem. we simply dont know what we dont know. i'am confident one ih cc owner to another, you will soon figure out this delima with the respective sugestions and advice from folks here at this cool site to lend a helping hand. i'd walk through heck on sunday to get to the core of the matter! i'am happy to help, at least then we know some things that dont fit.:BB&YS

:American Flag 1:btw: your motor is way out of timeing. plane and simple. as i learn, parts just dont break and simply bolt back togeather.

Thanks for you feedback everyone. eastonct124 I'm gonna try out your idea by tearing it down and put it back together the right way and then start it on a bench. I'm going to make sure to be more careful this time so I won't have to do this again. The thing is, I still need a manual....... shame on me. Will a 125 manual work? I have one for the 125 I could use.

Yes, any 12X manual will do, as far as the engine disassembly/reassembly goes.
And pay attention to detail....it's the little things that matter with engines.
My time is valuable to me, so I refuse to do things twice...and as far as I'm concerned, an engine should not need to be taken apart more than once in a lifeime....well, depending on use.
Example: my cub was well used when I go it, so if it lasted 42 years without needing disassembly, then when I rebuild it, I shouldn't see it needing rebuilding until I'm 73....another 42 years.

You can also download the engine manuals for FREE from www.kohlerengines.com .

The motor HAS to be connected to a motor stand or the tractor frame before I will start it. Motors will move around on a workbench when they are running. Try catching a running motor as it falls off your workbench. Hopefully the hot muffler, gas or a rotating shaft doesn't hurt you.

The only "secret stuff" I do/use is read the manual and have the proper tools and gauges to do the job. I spend most time measuring, cleaning and measuring. You notice I mention measuring twice. If I don't understand something I will ask someone. I used to teach a class on small motors. The first thing my students learned was:
To Me there is no such thing as a dumb question-the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

Get a correct Kohler manual if you are working on a Kohler motor.
Get a correct Cub Cadet manual if you are doing work to your Cub.

Ok, I downloaded the manual to research it. BUT, I found out something bad this weekend that I didn't notice before. I set the engine on the workbench on its side under the light, and as I was inspecting the block, something bad struck me. On the bottom of the cylinder there is a 1 1/2 inch by 1 inch of the cylinder missing at the very bottom. Could this be why Cub won't run?

Can you post a picture of the suspect area?

Mine had a chunk missing too. I've rebuilt it, but I still haven't started it yet (waiting to finish up the rest of the tractor now that warm weather's here).

If you do use it, be sure to round off the sharp edges with a die grinder.

Here's a link to what mine looked like: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1749

Doublecheck your link there...I got a list of forum posts..

As long as the missing chunk is down below where the piston normally rides it won't hurt.. If it is where the rings hit, it is junk, if it is where the skirt rides, it is a judgement call.

Hmmm thanks Rhoderman for the thread. I feel relieved now too lol. It isn't as wide as that but maybe as tall. I'll try to get a pic of it. So I'm going to continue to get that cylinder in it honed. My uncle could probably do it for $5 for me. Mine also threw a rod. When I first opened up the engine and took off the oil pan when I suspected a blown rod it was way worse than blown. It was BLOWN. So I will get that grinded down also. Thanks Rhoderman again. Made me feel better bout the engine lol.

Fixed the link. Don't know how I skrewed that up... Thanks for pointing it out though!