What a rag
 

Introduction

Thank you for taking the time to look at my thread. This thread originally started as an attempt to fix the clutch on my 1976 1200 but soon turned into an attempt to compile as much information as possible for anyone servicing their Quietline series tractor. Best thing to do is go to the last page and check out the index. That will lead you to a variety of helpful information.

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OK, so here it is, my first International Cub Cadet. It’s a 1200. I never really went looking for one, it was just kind of there, on my way to work one day, so I bought it. From a guy who owns a local small engine repair shop, it was his tractor and he had it for years, or so they say, you know how the story goes…

Sure I got one of those Cub Cadets they sell at Home Depot but that’s a different story.

From what I can see from the serial number it’s a ’76, what a great year!, just like my F250 4 x 4 highboy and my F-600.

And what a great time I’ve been having pushing snow

Until today,

Sudden stop and parts on the ground, one ball bearing and three lock washers. After getting it in the shed and pullin’ off the cover I am suddenly enlightened as to the reason for my new found inability to move in either the forwards or backwards directions. Los jointus de la ragus has shitus las bedus, or for those of you not quite so well versed in Spanglish, the flex disc coupler joint headed south for the winter, which is what I should have done!:bash2: What the heck am I still doing in Massachusetts, and I guess you Midwestern boys aren’t getting’ much better weather, so here we go…

Any help from you all such as part numbers, suppliers etc.. would be greatly appreciated.:beerchug:

Obviously I’ll need a new Rag joint…

It looks to me that there is a bushing of sorts inside the transmission input shaft yoke and if you can see from my picture it looks to have a bit of damage, so if that is a wear item I guess that should be added to the list.

I understand that the ball bearing generally resides inside the previously mentioned bushing to aid with drive shaft centering. Now what about the three lock washers? Did someone install these behind the ball bearing to act as a spacer? As not one of the four bolts that attached the offending flex disc coupler joint to the drive shaft and also to the transmission yoke had become loose to any noticeable degree, ny-locks all intact, I’m thinking that may be just be the case! Look at the number of flat washers stacked on the bolts, they previously resided between the drive shaft and the flex disc coupler joint. Maybe some sort of misalignment, drive shaft to short, engine mounted to far forward, transmission to far back, I don’t know, but whatever the case, if the end of the drive shaft was not seated far enough into the transmission input yoke I’m thinkin’ that may be a contributing factor to my dearly departed rag joints early, and might I say “untimely” demise!

Ok, so looking forward…on the tractor I mean. We can see from the next picture that what I’m calling a friction disc, the thing with three holes that apparently at some time in the recent past was driven in a rotational manner by the three pins that extend from the item commonly know as the three pin driver. As I said, we can see from the picture that said friction disc has suffered greatly from the sudden state of imbalance!

I must apologize, I may have, while acting in a hasty manner, neglected to attach a picture of the stack of washers necessary to gain a true understanding of one of my previous posts, therefore;

Ok, so where was I?

I’m guessing that simply replacing the friction disc may not be considered a thorough job. Truing up or dressing the corresponding surfaces on the clutch and or pressure plates would also be in order would be my guess. Would anyone be able to provide me with what might be considered “ out of service” dimensions for the thickness of the two items that might need to be chucked in the lathe?

So it looks like this is where I am currently at in the parts department:

New rag joint
New ball bushing for transmission input yoke
New friction disc

And as far as my trip to see my good friends at the machine shop;

Turn the pressure plates

Anything else?...

Oh, sorry, wrong picture.

Here is a link to the clutch from Part Tree.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0017500012

I truly appreciate your quick response Mr Sam Mac. And what a reasonable cost of just $50.26! I'm thinking that while I have this all apart, I may consider replacing the through out bearing in the process. I did see in the owners manual that some of the drive shafts had a grease fitting. Does anyone know if that is for the throughout bearing?

I can't say for sure, I've never owned a 1200. I'm sending you a PM for a place with better pricing than Parts Tree.

Did I say throwout bearing?

Heading out to shovel out the mother inlaw, check back in latter, Thanks!

Some good reading for you.

Service manual
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

Clutch rebuild how to
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33653

While you are into it, inspect the 3 pin clutch driver for cracks.
This is what is bolted to the end of the crank w/4 short 1/4" bolts.
They are still available but NOT CHEAP!
If it badly cracked, it will likely soon fail.
You only want to do this once so do it right.

Good luck!

Will do Mr finsruskw, I'll go out and check it out right now.

What do you think, looks pretty darn good to me, no cracks, and the (what looks like brass) bushing in the center is also in good shape.

Someone has been into the 3 pin driver before you, I see 1 bolt that is different than the other 3. Ball bushing is showing some wear, you may want to replace it while your in the neighborhood. Disk looks OK from what I can see but look for cracks up close. Again I'm not the QL guy, others know them better than I.
Edit:Check how a 5/8" shaft fits in the ball bushing, if it's sloppy change it.

A bit of parts on a 40 y.o International made classic>anything new made at Home Cheapo/big box stores IMO.

Thanks Sam Mac for the link to that great tutorial and a big thanks to Merk for putting that together. After reading the tutorial I was already decided on replacing the bushing in the 3 pin driver, looking closer at the pins and taking a better look at the drive shaft ends too, thanks.

One thing that I’m curious about is from the manual, pg 2 – 21, where it says
“NOTE: On these models one of the pins is longer than the other two. This longer pin should have the drive disc spring installed on it as shown.” Well, the picture in the downloaded manual is not to clear and I have no spring! Anybody have a better picture of this?

How many rag joints or flex couplers did it have in it? My me 79 1200 has two in there. If it didn't the drive shaft will move to much and the pilot bearing may come out of the 3 pin driver. Ask me how I know? It happened to mine. No the rear shouldn't have washers of any kind behind the ball bearing.

So Mr bocephus1991, I’m looking at the parts breakdown here;

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0017500012

and I’m only seeing one flex coupling disc show, as mine had, are you saying I should purchase two of these items, number 722-3000, and sandwich them together?

OK, you went and did it. Now that I know you are pretty handy with pics I am in the need of a pic of a Highboy :biggrin2: Don't be stingy, I know this is a 1200 clutch/rag joint thread but dang it I want some Highboy!!!!!

Well there you go!

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...717#post339717

Nice truck, but can I hire your boy? I could keep him busy a long time!!:biggrin2: :beerchug:

I'm glad to see someone get some use out of my clutch rebuild.

The longer pin is for using what IH called anti rattle spring. They were suppose to help keep the clutch quiet. I don't used them when I rebuild a clutch.
Pins aren't that expensive.

One other area I would check is the driveshaft. The area where the throw out bearing goes usually has some wear in the that area.

I usually take .010 to .025 off each clutch plate when I true them in a lathe. I try not to take anymore off than I have to.

Thanks again Mr Merk, advice well taken.

OK, gotta go watch Street Outlaws.

All of can say is my 1200 had two flex couplers. I know they were in there since I was a kid. I looked it up and should have been one, but I put two back in. I tried it with one and had a lot of horizontal movement of the drive shaft. And it pulled the pilot bearing out. I got it slid back in and I put the other flex coupler in. It's a sob to get two in there.No problem since. That's how it was when dad bought it in 81 it had two in there. It may have to do with it being a pulling tractor before he bought it. Id say it puts more pressure on the clutch disc.The IH mechanic/ salesman bought it cause it was the highest hp gear drive IH had for his son to pull with. His son mowed with it some but lost interest and he sold it to my dad, then my dad gave it to me in 98.

Brian, It's nice to know the history of your machine. I'll probably order 2 just in case, see how it works. Thanks for your help.

Great pic, thanks. That pic has several of my favorite things, truck, gun, dead varmit, happy boy growing up the right way, trees and no houses close. It only needed a cub, pretty girl and maybe a 1256 to be complete! :biggrin2:

My 1000 had one rag joint, I went back with two.

That's a great picture sawdustdad, hoping to find a creeper gear for mine too, would like to put a snow thrower on it in the future. As the rag joint was definitely the weak link in my setup, two sandwiched together would seem to solve that problem. I'm just worried, it seemed as if the rag joint failed as a result of the end of the drive shaft not being seated fully in the ball bushing, I would think 1/2" would be good. If I made a custom shaft I could accommodate both, double rag and fully seated. I'll probably order 2 and make that decision latter, thanks.

OK, so here we go, disassemble the drive shaft;

Looks good, checked it with the calipers and all checks out,

Throw out bearing and spacer look good, I'll replace both springs;

The clutch disc and pressure plate look good, won't have to do much but touch them on the lathe. Just a few burrs here on the back that I'll dress up with a file.