Hardware Guide?
 

I must have miss placed the bolts that I need to re-attach the tunnel cover to my 108. Anyone know the size I should go and buy?

On another note, has anyone put together a hardware guide for replacing all the hardware on a tractor? Is this something we might all work together and create as a loving family :bigthink: Maybe something like this....

Item --- Size --- Model(s)

I'm sure most of these parts are the same across a lot of tractors so we could put something together that could help all of us out.

Gene,
the parts books specify the hardware needed.

I always run a tap into the holes (cover and frame) then install 1/4X20 bolts.

THAT will hold them!! :bigeyes:

I got tired of dealing with rusty oversized holes. :bigthink:

The tunnel cover bolts are a odd size. They are #12-24 x 3/8".

Locally they are a tad hard to find. So.....I got upset with this whole fiasco, and I drilled & tapped mine for 1/4-20 x 1/2". Problem solved. A whole lot easier to find. Stainless Steel Hex or Phillips head suit me well.

I replaced every bolt, washer and lock washer with stainless, Unless you "know a guy" I wouldn't go that route but it sure does look good...

The little man on the tractor likes company, many little men and tractors

Good deal guys, and thank you!

Hmmm this explains why the 1/4-20 bolts I tried to put in didn't work, thanks for the good post!

So is that what you guys do with most of the bolts on these tractor's? Drill and tap as many of the ones you can to 1/4x20? That really does make a lot of sense. How much of the tractor can you convert over and are there many areas that still need strange sizes?

Ive been thinking of doing this exact thing when I tear down the 1200 to give it a freshen up

Be sure to use plenty of anti-sieze on SS fasteners that you install with a wrench.
Screwdriver tights might not, but wrench driven SS fasteners are easy to gall the fastener together with the nut.
Then you have to twist them off or drill them out.
And stainless is not fun to drill.

What Roland said the 12/24's are a bear to find unless you get to a good Hardware store. Ran into the same issue some were there and some were missing tap to 1/4x20 and no worries!

NO!
The guys are only talking about the tunnel cover bolts. :bash2: Not ALL of the bolts.

The parts book gives the size of all the fasteners.

^^^^^^ICYMI

NOT all the bolts.

JUST the tunnel cover, and thanks for posting this.

I thought I was going nuts (no pun) trying to secure my T.C.

Tap and upsize sounds like a great solution.

:beerchug:

Heading to hardware store tomorrow.

TSC sells them. They are #12 screws as Roland states. They don't have the exact length as my local one only has one length and i seem to be the only guy that buys them, they are in the drawers that all big box stores have but my Local lowes and hd only go up to #10's. 1/4 x 20 in the tunnel cover seems too big to me but to each his own. Those #12s are also used in clutch covers, small rear side panels on the 108, and some engine sheet metal too. Might as well get the right stuff Gene. Dash panel uses 10 x 32s, etc. I like getting stainless there for some bling, but again, up to the owner. Try to find the right diameter truss head screws for the step plates too, everything can be found with some research.

Gene when you come I will give you some,see you thurs

Yes, I'm coming over for sure tomorrow. Just checked out my schedule and tomorrow looks good. Thanks!

1/4" is just the next size bigger from #12. It's the only choice you have (when the holes strip)....... unless you go metric. :biggrin2:

I see that now. Weird because the #12s I have come with a 5/16 head on them where the 1/4s are 7/16. Guess I never paid attention to the thread diameter

Yeah, that is odd. Usually a #12 has a larger head. (3/8") :Huh:

Just curious, what type of head and what color were the factory screws? Is it the 3/8" hex mentioned above?

I'm thinking of getting these to make cover removal quick and easy. Opinions? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-24-Screws...item35dbd79862

First of all...... how often do you take the tunnel cover off that it needs to be easier? Secondly, you don't want a Philips head screw when you can use a hex headed bolt. Trust me on this one. Third, why on earth would you order 50 screws off ebay when you can go to a hardware store and buy 4? :bigeyes:

I look in there quite often to be sure things look legit (OCD) and don't have any bolts in it right now. A hardware store is more than $7.90 in gas away lol.

In my honest opinion I would not* use a screw driver stule head. I would stick with a regular bolt head. Ever try and remove the footpaths screws /bolts from something like a well used quietline.....

+1 on this. Stainless is relatively soft (tough, but soft) so galls more easily. Plus, the stainless is not nearly as strong as a hardened bolt, so careful using them in areas where you need high strength.

Im replacing many of mine with stainless in areas where its just holding things together. Bought an assortment online at a decent price and filling in the specialty sizes via mcmaster or amazon. Some of the stainless are 18-8 (or something else) which is cheaper and more workable, but does corrode, or you can go 316 or 304 and improve the corrosion resistance (at a price)

Any tips on how to drill out the ones closet to the tractor tower? Kind of tight to get my drill in there. Have not looked if going under the tractor is an option.