How do you adjust brakes on a 129 Hydrostat
 

Hi,

I had noticed of late that I have to really push the pedal all the way down and then still sometimes the tractor doesn't stop right away. I really had trouble going in reverse and stopping on a fairly steep slope the other day.

Having looked in the manual, it said about disconnecting the pin end of the right brake rod and then adjusting the jam nuts on the left wheel, then vice-versa. I couldn't quite see the point of disconnecting at the pin end, and so simply decreased some of the considerable horizontal play that both the brake rods had (not sure if this is normal or not) by tightening up on the jam nuts until the wheel turned harder and thus the brake pedal engaging sooner. Did I do the right thing? I took it out and tested it afterwards and the brakes seem to engage better and without having to press the pedal down quite as far. It did seem like the end nut was a bit loose on both sides and so perhaps they have been vibrating loose and thus reducing the brake efficiency.

Also, should the linkage near the wheel (sorry, don't know the name for it) that actually engages the brake be able to be moved around. Everything back there seems to have so much play - I didn't know if this is normal or not. I'm guessing that, unless the brake is engaged, up until that time the brake rod and linkages that comprise the whole braking system are relatively loose and can move around. I think it was always that way but I'm not sure. And if my jam nuts have not moved from being loose, etc., than perhaps there is something else wrong that I'm not addressing.

Any advice welcome, as I don't want to run out of brakes!

Thanks,
Keith

I don't know what manual you are reading, but attached is what the 1x8/9 Operator's Manual states.

Simply put, loosen the jam nuts on both sides. Tighten the adjusting nut to where you like it. Once you are done, tighten the jam nut against the adjusting nut and you are done.

I think you did it exactly correct. The brake actuator is supposed to be rather loose, as you've noticed. The only caution when adjusting brakes on a hydro is to be sure that the brakes don't engage until the hydro has shifted into neutral via the brake/clutch pedal movement. Hence the instructions for the pedal distances. Sounds like you've fixed it properly.

I'm going to say, that I have never needed a brake on a hydro unless I was locking it for transport on a trailer, or parking on a hill. I don't know why you would use it for anything else. If you are sliding on a hill, you probably need some weight, or ag tires. If you sliding due to traction loss, a brake isn't going to matter. Sounds like you fixed it correctly. :beerchug:

Thanks for the replies
 

Hi,

I appreciate the help. I had read in the manual that the brake should not engage until the pedal is quite close to the stop, and so I did not want to tighten up on the jam nuts too much - just enough that the wheel became hard to turn compared to what it was. I drove it after making the adjustments and found it to be better but probably could have taken it up some more yet. But I was concerned, as was pointed out to me, about the brakes not engaging until the hydro goes back to neutral. I didn't know if maybe the pads need to be replaced since I have never had to make any sort of brake adjustment in the 33 years I've had the tractor! Guess I'll see how things go next time I mow :)

Keith

I gotta agree... It's a Hydro, wadda ya need brakes for?

Unless the tractor has a working N/S switch, I don't know if I ever put my foot on the pedal.

no brake pedal?
 

Hi Yosemite,

LOL...you mean you actually never use the pedal? I can't quite imagine driving it that way.

It's just different than it used to be in the way it brakes, especially when going down an incline in reverse. The only way to get it stopped is to grab the shift and get to forward asap. With the pedal alone, I'd slide right down the hill. So something is still not right. I don't want to overdo it on the jam nuts since the brakes should not engage before a minimum of 3/4 inch from the stop, which is about where I have it now. The best way I can describe it is like when they refer to a car brake pedal as being "spongy". The brake doesn't engage firmly - the pedal still flexes quite a bit. I don't recall it being that way before.

Keith

X2 agreed.

I use the brake pedal some on my hydro tractors, but I'm still pretty new to them (only started using them a year ago--always had a gear tractor), so some of it may be reflex, I'm so used to using the clutch. But I still find it easy to step on the brake to stop the tractor when I need to get off to open a gate or pick up a branch.

I'd continue to take up slack in the brake linkage until the brakes hold the tractor the way you want. As long as it goes into neutral when you press on the brake pedal, it'll be fine.

Sawdustdad,

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of continuing to tighten up on the linkage a bit, but don't want to screw up the hydro. As you said, as long as I'm hitting neutral first, I should be fine.

Is there any chance that the brake lining needs to be replaced? Is there lining to replace on a 129?

Keith

I may be wrong or wronger, but I adjust mine to grip ASAP if the peddle is pushed since I NEVER use it unless its a total panic situation (see my recent thread about my hydro handle going around like a roulette wheel... cub vs. TJ/house/whatever damage, TJ/house/whatever wins every time if I get a choice). I'm not outrunning neutral, but mine are adjusted CLOSE. If you mess it up you'll know right away because the hydro will whine with the brake depressed or the pads will drag. Put the rear up on a jack and spin the wheels by hand to make sure the pads are free.

Yes, its totally possible your linings are toast and that they need replaced, but you should be able to adjust them all the way down to nearly (or all the way... never tried) metal on metal if you want. There are procedures to replace the linings, but sadly you can't just buy new pads like you can for a car. NLA.

As plenty of others have said, you should practically NEVER need to use the brakes on hydro tractor. If it's not stopping under reverse load, it ain't gonna stop anyhow because you're out of traction. I experience this every single time I mow my hill and duals aren't practical for the rest of my property so we go down fast and up slower. :)

Me too.

As soon as you place the Hydro lever in neutral......you WILL stop.

Actually, pads ARE available, though pricey! I've bought several sets over the past couple years. ccspecialties.org or one of the other sponsors will have them, or you can go to partstree.com and order them for a few dollars more.

Yeah, I don't know that I ever do use the pedal.

On some of my older Narrow Frame tractors the pedals are EXTREMELY difficult to push down if the lever is in the forward position, and they are a PITA to fix, so I don't mess with them unless I have the dash apart for some reason.

I don't know if that's the reason for not using the pedal or not, but in any event, my hand is always on the lever anyway. I would bet that 9 out of 10 times, if I'm going to stop (for whatever reason), the next step is reverse anyway. There is no reason to step on the pedal then let off, then pull the lever backward.'' It's all one motion with little or no pause in the middle.

I guess some could say that I'm hard on my hydro transmissions and I may be... But, I have yet to break one. I have yet to replace brake pads either...

:Morning: Brake lining is available from McMaster-Carr. :American Flag 1:

One reason the IH Engineers developed a internal and or external brake system can be found in the manual:

Blue Ribbon Service Manual International Cub Cadet Tractors Models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, & 1650 GSS-1464 W/ Revision 2 September, 1979

Aside from a safety parking brake, or engine failure on a down-hill slope, the following paragraph under the Check Valve Service chapter located on page 2-40 states this:

NOTE: Late production tractors are equipped with self-unloading check valves in the hydrostatic transmission. The tractors so equipped cab be identified by the absence of a release lever on the right side of the frame cover. These check valves will dump automatically when the engine is shut off. This will allow the tractor to be rolled.

CAUTION: Any time the engine is shut off the brake pedal should be locked to prevent the tractor from rolling.

Makes perfect sense why IH done what they did! Especially if the model 129 in topic discussion was up-graded to the self-unloading check valves. My personal opinion for my early 1450, is to go with the self-unloading check valves once the current manual check valves can no longer be operational. I find it very difficult to push the 690 pound beast with one arm, and hold the dump lever with the other arm when something prevents the tractor from self operation.

Hope this helps!

:American Flag 1:

What happens if I would adjust the jam bolts so that the pedal starts engaging before the shift lever comes back to N? Right now I am probably just slightly above the recommended maximum distance from the pedal stop, but the shift lever is still coming back to N. Is it bad for the transmission if the brakes engage much sooner? Or is the concern simply that the tractor would keep moving since the lever would still be partially in either F or R?

You don't want the brakes fighting the hydro. Adjust as the book specifies.

On another note..... your still using your foot to stop the tractor? ....... :bash2:

There's a lever on the dash....... The pedal is a brake not a clutch.

I know I look at most things differently from other people but I don't understand anyone's obsession with brakes on a hydro...

If the brakes are engaged before the transmission is disengaged, the transmission will continue to force the tractor in the direction it's moving with the brakes trying to hold it back.

Would probably not really do any damage to the transmission (only because they are so tough) but this isn't a good situation for any part of your tractor, when the brakes start to drag the transmission down this will begin to slow the engine until the governor starts to correct the engine speed... Hard on the brakes, hard on the transmission, hard on the gears, hard on the drive shaft and connections and hard on the engine.

I just don't see anything good coming from this situation.

You would be better off not using the brakes at all.

In PA and VA, you need the brake for parking. I don't envy you flatlanders at all! :biggrin2: :beerchug: