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-   -   1572,1772 Temperature differance (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31076)

drcjv 04-05-2014 08:31 PM

1572,1772 Temperature differance
 
1 Attachment(s)
Any ideas why my 1772 runs about 20 degrees cooler (130) than my 1572 (150). I checked the thermostats both are in and working. I used a laser thermometer and checked all around engine, Thermostat housing and radiator and all are about 20 degrees cooler. I also put a thermometer in radiater with same results.

ACecil 04-05-2014 10:50 PM

Nice set of supers! What's the model of your other super? Sorry, I can't help on the temp question.

J-Mech 04-05-2014 10:53 PM

I'd say calcium and rust buildup inside the cooling system. May even be a difference in the radiator build. If the tractors are only running at 130 and 150 it's nothing to worry about anyway. AFAIC, that's a little cool. I like to see water temps of 175-200 (working temp). Too cool a cylinder will wear funny.

drcjv 04-05-2014 11:21 PM

The other super is a 1872. Still looking for a 2072

ACecil 04-05-2014 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 252743)
The other super is a 1872. Still looking for a 2072

Cool deal, I really like my 1872! :beerchug:

ccpullin 04-06-2014 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 252686)
Any ideas why my 1772 runs about 20 degrees cooler (130) than my 1572 (150). I checked the thermostats both are in and working. I used a laser thermometer and checked all around engine, Thermostat housing and radiator and all are about 20 degrees cooler. I also put a thermometer in radiater with same results.

The temperature of the engine should be what the thermostats are rated at. They should not open allowing coolant to circulate through the radiator until they reach that temperature, just allowing coolant circulate through out the engine until they reach that point. Sounds like both are opening a little soon. If you are using the dash gage as a reference they too could not be reading properly. The engine will run better, cleaner, and have more power when up to recommended temperature.

cubs-n-bxrs 04-06-2014 09:26 AM

Maybe the radiator in the 1772 is in a little better shape than the 1572. My 1572 ran a little on the hot side. I installed a new thermostat and there was no change in temp. I used a radiator flush and refilled. I also added a little Water Wetter to the radiator and that brought the temp guage down considerably.

drcjv 04-06-2014 09:32 AM

What is water wetter?

drcjv 04-06-2014 09:34 AM

What's the best way to flush the radiator?

ken6x6 04-06-2014 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 252809)
What is water wetter?

its an antifreeze additive that suppose to lower the coolant temp by a few degrees

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/re...FSqXOgod2FIAPA

Sam Mac 04-06-2014 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken6x6 (Post 252814)
its an antifreeze additive that suppose to lower the coolant temp by a few degrees

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/re...FSqXOgod2FIAPA

I've used this in my race cars and I have it in my 2182, the 1782 will be getting some also. Great stuff.

ccpullin 04-06-2014 10:28 AM

Charles,

You are not running warm enough! You are not having an overheating problem rather running too cool as the thermostats are opening too soon or are not sealing. Depending on what thermostat is installed in the engine it should be running 170 to 190 degrease when up to operating temperature. Start the engine up cold and as it warms up place your hand around the upper radiator hose (be carefull of the fan). You should NOT feel any heat until the engine gets up to full operating temperature (rated temperature of the thermostat, varies around 170 to 190 degrease) then the thermostat should open and start flowing coolant to the radiator. If you feel the upper radiator hose warming up as the engine is warming up the thermostat is not sealing and need replaced. Products like water wetter are designed to make the engine run cooler. Calcium and rust build up will cause the engine to run hotter as the heat from the engine can not transfer to the coolant, or the coolant can not transfer heat through the radiator tubes for the air passing across it to reduce the temperature. Again, you are not running hot enough or your gauges are not showing accurate. If you were having an overheating issue yes, water wetter, antifreeze, and radiator cap pressure all help. Overheating can be caused by thermostats, belt condition, grass in the radiator fins, water pump impeller, and calcium/rust build up could be issues. Another factor between a 1572 and a 1772 is a larger engine on the 1772 building more heat with the same cooling capacity (radiator size) between the models. Again, you are not running warm enough, if you get it up to recommended temperature it will run better, cleaner and have more power!

drcjv 04-06-2014 02:08 PM

The only thing I can think of doing is change the thermostats but it seems unlikely that both are not working. The 1772 is the one that runs cooler. The service manager at the local dealership told me that there is noway that in 50 degree weather the tractors will get up to temp. This did not sound right to me but these things are supposed to run hot. I don't see what could make the run cooler.

DoubleO7 04-06-2014 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 252852)
The only thing I can think of doing is change the thermostats but it seems unlikely that both are not working. The 1772 is the one that runs cooler. The service manager at the local dealership told me that there is noway that in 50 degree weather the tractors will get up to temp. This did not sound right to me but these things are supposed to run hot. I don't see what could make the run cooler.

The service manager is obviously not educated in what a thermostat does.
My guess is both of your thermostats are stuck in the open position.
If there are any installed.
Which is a good thing.
Until the sludge starts to build up in the oil due to the moisture not being evaporated because the engine is not allowed to get up to proper operating temp.
Which on virtually any water cooled engine is just under 210 by a few degrees.
Efficient use of fuel also requires the near boiling point temp.
With a proper temp. and working thermostat, it will throttle the coolant flow to the radiator so that the engine either retains the desired heat or is allowed to radiate the heat via the rad.
Even when it is 40 below zero.
Internal engines might not generate power efficiently but they are very good at converting fuel into heat.

I would say your rad and all else in the cooling system is up to par and it is simply an open stat.
If there is one installed at all.

drcjv 04-06-2014 06:43 PM

Both tractors have thermostats and I took the one out of the 1772 and it was closed when I put it in hot water it opened. Then closed when cooled again. So I am stumped unless I am not taking the temp correctly as I said I used a laser thermometer I put it all around engine and thermo housing highest I got on 1572 was 150 and 130 on 1772. I also put thermometer in radiators and got similar results. How and where do I get a real reading?

kostendorf 04-06-2014 09:26 PM

Let them run with the radiator caps off till you see the fluid start moving indicating the thermostats are open then let them run another 10 minutes to check temp. If they are still low try a new thermostat.

J-Mech 04-07-2014 02:13 AM

You can't check internal water temp with an infrared temp gun. If you are just getting readings with that, it is probably at least 20° different than the water inside the system. You really need to calm down, if you are checking them just sitting there running, they aren't going to get anywhere near 200° unless you load them. I.E. go mow, blow snow, or pull those plows. I mean WORK it. A diesel will not get hot until under load. Diesel cylinder and exhaust temps are much lower than a gas engine. Plus it's what like maybe 50° outside? From what you describe I think they are both working just fine. I wouldn't worry until it's 90° and they won't get up to 200°. Leave them alone, they're fine. (I work on diesels all the time.) If they were mine, and the temp gauge on the dash is just one that says C-H, I'd replace it with one with actual numbers. Then you know what the temp is. :beerchug:

drcjv 04-07-2014 07:27 AM

This is kinda what I thought all along. I did replace the gauge on the 1772 with one with #s That is what got me thinking about this because it only goes up to 130. Neither tractor has done any work and it has been 50 or less out. I will see what happens this weakend when they are pulling the plows.

Thanks to all for the help

J-Mech 04-07-2014 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 252998)
This is kinda what I thought all along. I did replace the gauge on the 1772 with one with #s That is what got me thinking about this because it only goes up to 130. Neither tractor has done any work and it has been 50 or less out. I will see what happens this weakend when they are pulling the plows.

Thanks to all for the help

Where did you put the sensor for the gauge? That may be the reason for the low reading also. :bigthink:

drcjv 04-07-2014 11:22 AM

The new sensor went right where the original sensor was.

J-Mech 04-07-2014 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drcjv (Post 253054)
The new sensor went right where the original sensor was.

Ok, well rule that out.... I'd say it's accurate then. :beerchug:

Oak 04-07-2014 07:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I installed aftermarket gauges on mine and mounted the original under the hood with the hour meter and this is where it runs and the original stays in the normal range also. I used a Fluke IR thermometer and it is right on with what the gauge reads. I ran it pretty hard at tha Bama plowday a few weeks ago and it never got above 170 but it was only 65 or 70 degrees outside.

Cubcrazy 04-07-2014 10:37 PM

That's a good looking gauge setup Todd!:beer2:

J-Mech 04-07-2014 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 253131)
I installed aftermarket gauges on mine and mounted the original under the hood with the hour meter and this is where it runs and the original stays in the normal range also. I used a Fluke IR thermometer and it is right on with what the gauge reads. I ran it pretty hard at tha Bama plowday a few weeks ago and it never got above 170 but it was only 65 or 70 degrees outside.

Nice set up Todd! Let us know this summer if it runs warmer. :bigthink:

Oak 04-07-2014 10:46 PM

Thanks guys. I've not had any of mine overheat yet but then again I have not mowed with one yet. I will this year.

ACecil 04-07-2014 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 253131)
I installed aftermarket gauges on mine and mounted the original under the hood with the hour meter and this is where it runs and the original stays in the normal range also. I used a Fluke IR thermometer and it is right on with what the gauge reads. I ran it pretty hard at tha Bama plowday a few weeks ago and it never got above 170 but it was only 65 or 70 degrees outside.

Very nice, Todd!


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