More on the 982
 

So, as I was tuning up the Onan, I noticed some oil/sludge build up on the undercarriage at the front of the tractor. As I investigated further - removed hood, lights, grill, and engine shrouds - I found a good deal of sludge build up on the outside of the front of the engine and a lot of oil soaked grass on the frame rails. Then I removed the mufflers and cleaned off a good deal of the build up. No puddles on the ground, so I'm thinking that this didn't build up over nite. Anyway, I fired her up, no mufflers, and took a close look at the bearing gasket area, the front seal area and the cam plug. I was expecting to have oil slung on me from the crank, but that didn't happen. I did notice some oil starting to seep a little on the left side of the bearing plate. I need some more cleaner to get it really cleaned up, so I finished up for the nite. But, not before I noticed that drive shaft couplers at the front of the engine are ragged and need replaced. (I was assessing the work I'll have to do if I need to pull the engine)

So, I think my next potential tasks will be: (Hopefully not removing the engine)

1) Finish cleaning and then assess where the leak is coming from

2) Remove PTO (any hints/tricks are appreciated!)

3) Potentially replace front seal and/or bearing plate gasket.

4) Replace front rag joints

5) Reassemble.

I think if I need to pull the engine, I'll tear her down and prep for paint.

I would not paint that tractor if it were mine...it's only original once, and yours looks really nice from the pictures you've put on here....

Just to mention that it's not hard to pull the engine on one of these. Or at least not hard enough to justify a complete tear down. All you have to do to pull the engine is disconnect the wiring ( don't forget the starter wire), disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the carb cables, disconnect the driveshaft, and then it's just 6 bolts. Problably takes no more that 20 to 30 minutes tops. I have a 782 completely tore down and it probably took me 3 hours it get it apart.

AJ

OK! Just got back from the shop. Matt, I may just do the non-restoration! Your info was spot on. I removed the 3 nuts/springs and then 4 allen screws. Everything slid right off with no issue. Then I removed the engine bolts and disonnected the drive shaft. My local dealer had rag joints for the same price as the net, so I picked two up tonite and installed them. Cleaned up all the crud on the engine mounting plate and on the engine. After I got it all cleaned up and the new rag joints in, I re-connected the motor to the drive shaft and torqued the mounting bolts. Then I fired her up! Started without an issue and then I checked the front of the engine again for leaks. I don't think it's the front seal. I think it's the bearing plate gasket. I placed an order (jacks small engine) for a bunch of parts and hopefully they will be here next week. If I have to remove the bearing plate, I'll replace the crank seal also. I ordered the seal, bearing gasket, points, condensor, plug wires, points gasket, points plunger, and few other items.

I took pics, but I didn't get a chance to down load. I'll post them when I'm done. Thanks again for the info!

some pics

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/091.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/092.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/093.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/097.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/DSCN1550.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/DSCN1551.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/DSCN1552.jpg

I'd think it was the shaft seal. How can oil get onto the plate in the pic below if it's the plate seal? I think oil is walking down the shaft and getting flung off right behind the PTO.

The shaft seal is an easy change with a hook type seal yanker. I'd change it first, clean it all up and run it. If it still leaks, I was wrong. :beerchug:

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3.../ShaftSeal.jpg

I think i'd try the shaft seal too since it is currently accessible.

You better get your camera charged up for next week's operation on the front of that engine! :WWP::WWP::WWP:

If you have not dug into this yet-

The pressurized oil journal is about at the 11 oclock position on the bearing plate and this is where it is leaking from. I replaced both the plate and shaft seal on mine last summer. You don't have to pull the motor but do remove your key and be careful not to scar the bearing with you remove the plate. Easy to do and the cost is around $38 IIRR.

Scott

Scott - I believe you are right on. I fired up the tractor on Saturday, just to see how she'd do in 12 degree weather.:biggrin2.gif:, and she turned a little slow, but she caught and ran solid. Then I got my light out and ear muffs on (loud with no mufflers). I could see the oil seeping right at 11:00 as you said. Enough to create a drip down that made it to the base of the engine. I have a bunch of parts coming including a seal and bearing plate gasket, so they'll both get replaced.

Yesterday I spent a few hours in the shop removing the bearing plate and cleaning off the old gasket material. What a pain, having to make sure nothing gets on the crank journal or in the motor. I was hoping I could see a connecting rod, but no luck. Parts should be here today, and I'll try to fire up the camera for MH and post a few pics. Hopefully this will be the end for a while, and not just the beginning of a bigger project!

Pics!
 

Here are a few pics. I was going to do a little work tonite, but a crappy day at work and that normally needs to unnecessary frustration and mistakes.

UPS guy was good to me!
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/010-2.jpg

Bearing Plate
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/011-3.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/012-3.jpg

Naked!
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/015-2.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...tors/016-1.jpg

Journals
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/018.jpg

Hopefully a better mental state later this week and I'll get the old seal off, get everything assembly clean and get her buttoned back up.

In the last pic, is that spring around the crank an inner part of the seal that I need to remove before reassembly?

Any thoughts on some assembly lube on the main bearing for startup?

Yes that spring was part of the old seal and needs to come off.

I just oiled up the bearing before I slipped it back on. One thing you can do is disconnect the coil and turn it over for about 10 seconds and this will return the oil to the journal and bearing, it's not a new bearing so I would not worry about bearing lube. A smear of 90 wt won't hurt either.

It's your choice but I did not trust the little O-ring on the gasket, I used a very light film of #2 on the entire gasket.

Scott

:GoodLuck::Pray::WWP: Thanks for the pictures man! Hope the reassembly goes well, can't wait to see the step by step! I know what you mean with a crappy day at work. I tried to lay some hardwood flooring tonight....that didn't last too long. Whooped from working with the boss today - just the two of us for the entire week. :bash2: Definately time for a few :beerchug::beer2: by the end of the week!!

Was checking my 982 over tonight before closing up the garage....can't wait to get out and work on it when the warmer weather comes in a couple months. If anything like last year it will be the nicest weather in April than it will be all summer. Think me and the boss will have to chat about holidays!:BB&YS:

:biggrin2.gif:

Worse than before the fix!!!!
 

I got some time to get my Onan back together. This morning I popped out the old seal, cleaned up the bearing surfaces for the gasket and put it back together. I used some permatex gasket sealer and let it sit (assembled) for a few hours. Finished throwing snow with my other tractor and decided to fire up the 982. Well, much to my dismay, it's leaking worse now from the same spot.:bash2: It's definity the oil galley, but now what? Any help would definitely be appreciated. On a good note, the seal seems to be working fine!

Finally finished!
 

I ordered another bearing plate gasket and installed it with Permatex #2 instead of #3 like I used the first time:bash: It worked great....until I noticed that oil was puking out of the seal. It didn't seat properly when I reinstalled the bearing plate. Ordered a new one, and removed the old one carefully with out removing the bearing plate. Got the new seal installed last nite and fired her up with no leaks:beerchug: After that I installed a new set of plug wires, PTO (and adjusted), engine shroud, hood, grill, & side panels. All the lights work and it looks pretty good. She starts on the first turn of the key and no leaks front or back. Next I'm going to do a little work on the deck and get a new set of front tires and she should be 100%.

Gave all the tractors a wash today. I like the 982, but I wanted to get a tiller and blower for it and sell my JD that has those attachments. I guess the only tiller is shaft driven off the rear PTO, which I understand both are hard to come by and relatively expensive.:bash2: But she's running great and not leaking any fluids. I'll give her a workout this spring, and then decide what I'm going to do with her.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/047.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/048.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/049.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...actors/052.jpg

Awesome 982! I want one so bad. Even more now after getting the 682.

Glad it worked out for ya.

:)

Scott

Really looks sharp!

Bob

That's a great looking 982, toyman! :beerchug:

toyman, there is a Cat 0 tiller available that has the self powered engine that mounts on the tiller.

Look'n sweet toyman! I am jellous...wish it was nice weather here that I could get my 982 and cleaned up....yours looks great! Wish I had set of dual brake pedals for mine.....still working that and many other things!! Glad to hear its running good now with no leaks.:beer2:

Thanks guys! I'm pretty fired up since I found a 450 blower from a member of another board. Should seal the deal this week and pick it up at a plow day close to me towards the end of April. Seems pretty complete and in good condition. I plan on putting the blower on the 1862 (power steering) and have a line on a #2 tiller that I'm thinking I can use on the 982 with a little work. (Theres another thread in attachments)

That sure is a beautiful original 982. I'm glad ya listened to Matt about painting it. I would sure like to find one as nice. It is hard to beleive the older style tillers weren't made for these tractors....Is it a case of no rear lift or ??

I am with you truckntran.....its kinda weird they (IH) didn't make a specific tiller to fit onto a "super" garden tractor. I mean they built an ox of a tractor, meant to be used on large acerage lawns and for those who have orchards and vegtable gardens (I guess they were called market gardens??). Ummmm, don't ya think these people would have a use for a tiller?? I mean the ones meant to run off a pto seem to be scarce as hen's teeth - right? I have never heard of one for sale or seen a picture of one since I got involved in this addiction!

I would have to say that someone earlier in another thread posted a thought of lengtheing the arms or something along that line to get the tiller lower into the ground due to tire height. Since I have never been up close to a tiller like these (only been exposed to Farm King rear tine tillers that are run off 540pto) I think it would work .... it seems to make sense in my pea brain? Heck....if you got right down to it, you could put a shorter set of ag tires on just to till with. I can't see that it would screw up the drive train or anything. You would just feel like your always driving up hill when using the tiller.:biggrin2.gif:

They did make a shaft driven tiller, but you need the rear pto and 3 pt hitch, which are pretty tough to find and expensive. I think Scott Murphy has one on his super. I read thru a thread on a #2 tiller by Wild Bill. It shows that there are 2 holes on the gear box mount about an inch apart. I looks like there is enough room to drill another hole about another inch lower. Doing the math, the 26-12-12 tires will be approximately 3" taller than the 23-10.5-12's, so the axle height on the super should only be approximately 1.5" higher. Mathematically it looks like an extra hole an inch lower may do the trick. The other obstacle is the cast lift arm. There isn't a part number called out for the 982, and it seems there are 2 (or more) different ones for the wide frames. One has the bar that goes thru it the other mounts with frankenstein bolts. I think the 982 takes the frankenstein bolts, but I'm still researching right now. Oh and the last thing is the lift bar that goes from the hydraulic lift to the cast lift arm, since the Supers were used for the Cat 0 3 pts. The #2 tiller is pretty complete and I know I'm going to be kicking myself if I miss it.

I would have to agree....grab it if you can! Bring it home and set it up to the rear of 982...see if you think you can modify things to work on 982. If you don't think you can....sell it! At least you won't miss out on the chance a good tiller.....especially if you can make it work.:bash2::bash2:

I have a 3 point pto driven tiller for my 982.:beerchug: It's in PA and I will pick it up this spring.

SURE!!!...throw some more salt in that wound!! Nice guy Oak....:BB&YS::biggrin2. Maybe toyman and me will get to it before you since we are closer to Pensylvannia than you are Georgia boy!! gif:

The WF/82 series upper 3-point casting is the same, regardless of whether it uses frankenstein bolts or has the bushings in the frame. You will need to make something that bolts on either side of the frame at the rear to hold the cast piece.

Matt is correct. The 982 frame is notched out where the frankenstein bolts would go. They did theis to clearance the 3 point rockshaft I think. The setup for the 1x6 1x7 will work on a 982. You need both the bracket and the nf yoke to make it work. As far as the rest of it, I have no clue what it would take to get the tiller on it. I've never owned a tiller so I can't help.

AJ

Thanks for the info! I think I'll contact the guy and see if I can take a look on Saturday. Maybe on my way of getting the green out of the garage.

Oak - did you find that tiller in PA or just have it stored there?? I keep a pretty close eye on the PA craigslist and ebay and haven't seen one of those come up recently!

Toyman, my dad got the 982 with a deck and the tiller at a cub dealer in the Johnstown area about 8 to 10 years ago. I'm like you. I search daily for cub stuff but, here in Georgia it's hard to find anything. I think they also made a bush hog type mower for the back but I never seen one. What other implements were built for these tractors?

Oak: IH Listed the following for the 982:

1) Mower Decks (Mine has a 60' deck)
2) Front Blade (for snow or dirt) A 54" available.
3) 48" rear PTO shaft driven Tiller ( a real heavy duty tiller!!)
4) Snow Thrower (optional elec chute control available)
5) Sweepers
6) #2 & #4 trailers
7) Any 3d party 3-point Category O implement (plows, discs, harrows, cultivators, etc.)

Myron B

Myron my also list includeds A 40" pto tiller, a 42" pto tiller, and the 42" L42 rear pto mower.