Spiral pin
 

The drift shaft from the engine to the hydro transmission let go at the front end today.

I don't know what was used for a pin from the engine to the shaft. I got this information from a previous post: You're drive line "drive shaft, front and rear shaft bushings and flex discs" might need to be upgraded. Use Spiral pins and not roll pins for retainers in the drive line and other areas that require them.

What size spiral pin should I get, and what about the shaft bushings?? I don't see any bushing, or where one has ever been at the engine end of the shaft.

Need some help here, and thanks.
Dave in SW Missouri

What model tractor?

Like Todd said,need the tractor model number. And we will help you get up and running!

Spiral pin
 

Sorry about that guys, 149 Cub Cadet. K321 engine.

Guess I thought you were mind readers.
Dave in SW Missouri

The front of your driveshaft uses a hardened dowel pin, not a spirol pin. It is 1/4" dia by 1-1/2" long I believe. You don't have bushings. What you read was referring to the Quietline tractors.

here's what one looks like!

a bad one:

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5071ca2.jpg

a good one, installed:

http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/...ps370dd5ef.jpg

I got mine from a local cub dealer, cost $4.

An itty bitty thing like that would cost $4. :bash: Drives me crazy how tiny parts can be so expensive.

Dowel pin
 

Ok guys, thanks for the info on the dowel pin. Next question, the fiber or rubber shock bushing at the rear of the drive shaft at the tranny end shakes pretty bad. It doesn't turn straight, has some wobble. Is this a problem?

Dave

Does the 1211 use the hardened dowel or a spiral pin in the front?

The end of the driveshaft slides into the hydro pump adapter and both pieces wear over time and cause the driveshaft to wobble. Both pieces can be welded up and remachined to fix the wobble. The rubber flex disc gets deformed and should be replaced when the driveshaft is repaired/replaced.

The 1211 uses a coupler,flex disc and ball bushings and spirol pins.

The quietlines used the ball bushings. The 149s never did as far as I know. My '72 149 doesn't.

Here is the Drive Line for the 149 as pictured from the Parts Manual....

Drive line
 

Thanks Roland for that picture. I should have looked in my manual, I usually don't think of that until I have hollered for help.

My flex disc wobbles, perhaps I should look into that. My 149 came minus the tunnel cover, and so far I haven't located one,so I see the wobble.

I had put a spiral pin in the drive shaft at the engine, and after a couple months use (sometimes hard use) it disappeared, left me in the middle of the road. Now it has been replaced with a hard dowel pin.
Dave

The "wobble" in the rear of the Drive Shaft maybe the Item #4 also, being it maybe wore out.

IMO , You would be better off just to swap over to the four flex disc and spirol pins , the same as a QL uses.

You would need a driveshaft , four disc , front coupler and spirol pins. I know that sounds like alot of parts , but it really isn't to bad if you shop Ebay. If you are careful and keep a close watch , you can find good disc and couplers for cheap. Make a new driveshaft and buy some spirol pins and you are good to go. The forum sponsors may be able to fix you up with some good used parts.

I did my 149 like that just for the realiability factor. It seemed like the front pin would wear out , fall out , half slide out , etc ... in the middle of the summer when it would be 100 degrees out.

Just my .02 cents !!!!!!

When you are as far away from the garage/barn as possible.

hello gents, new guy here....just bought a 1250...and not to get hijack thread, but in regards to this, has anyone here tried the coupler style "u-joint" conversion?? instead of these dowels and ragjoints?? they cary them at my local farm and barn store...

Thought about it but the hard part is finding the right size ID for the shafts. Theyre 3/4 inch, right? Would you have a part number of the right size?

I think the coupler is worn on my 127 because it would come out so I put a hose clamp around it to stop it from moving. So far it has worked fine with seemingly no adverse effects.
And I have a solid pin in it.

i do not have a part #, sorry, i can check... but yes they come in 3/4" and i believe even a 5/8" which i think would fit stockers, sounds like drilling a couple holes and lathing some threads off of a bolt {instead of pin} and shortening actual driveshaft isnt too bad..cost is??? well maybe 35-40 bucks a joint or so...make the shaft easy to remove is what interests me the most

IH Cub Cadet drive shafts are 5/8" in diameter.

im not sure why that post went to a different place...i suck at computers...apologies...but i know they have the 3/4" couplers and joints, as well as the couplers for 5/8" shafts for stockers..not sure the part #, i can check, but its about 45-50 bucks a joint at fleet farm..involved; seems drilling a hole in each coupler [opposite threaded hole] and use a lathe to remove some of the thread on a bolt and then cutting down driveshaft to fit...what interests me most is the ability and ease to remove driveshaft

oops...i did it again too....bang my head