cub cadet 149 issues
 

Hello,

I am new to site I need help with my Cub 149 hydrostat. While blowing snow this winter, the shaft from engine to charge pump came off flex coupling and cut open the trans filter, along with some other damage. I replaced the shaft, cooling fan, flex coupling, and drive flange. I filled the hydro w/ fluid. Now it acts like the tractor wants to move but doesn't. Any ideas?

First, welcome to OCC..........:Welcome2:

I would check the Spirol Pin that secures the Drive Flange to the input shaft of the Hydro.

:Welcome2:

As the 149 came with a solid coupling, it sounds like your 149 has been updated at some point to a flex coupling! :bigthink:

Anyway, I have seen some hydraulic systems that are hard to bleed after a filter change, especially if the wrong alternative filter is substituted.

So, my question is,

did the correct filter get installed?? :bigeyes:

Welcome to OCC! Good luck with your 149. They are great tractors. :beerchug:

149's do have a flex coupling at the back, anda solid drive pin like the rest of the n/f's at the front. Is this your setup?

From the Parts Manual......Check that item #36 that secures item #4 to the Hydro Input Shaft is not broken.

Yep,
The 149's came from the factory with the flex coupling or "rag" joints as some call them. Check your relief valves and make sure one of the tabs isn't stuck down.

Yup, this is where I'd start, then the spiral pin in the trans input shaft as Roland suggested.

:Welcome2:

Hi I replaced the drive flange, spiral roll pin, cooling fan,flex coupling and main shaft. when the old one came appart it damaged the filter as well, so i replaced that and filled rear differential with hy-trans fluid to top of plug hole. this 149 has a hydrulic lift and that works just fine. thanks chuck s

brand new spiral roll pin with all the other parts, unloader valves are free the pop right up.

yes i replaced solid pin, shaft cooling fan, flex coupling, spiral roll pin and input drive flange

replaced with cub 923-3014 as shown in parts tree web site. Do you know how to bleed system

I had this very thing happen this past winter while pushing snow, one hole in the rag joint tore out and the drive shaft cut the filter. I was lucky enough to pull up in front of the shop, change the filter, replace the rag joint, fill with fluid and go back to work. That said, I have changed fluid and filters on many tractors, many times and have never had one that didn't "pick up" right away. Guess I've just been lucky.

If this were my 149 and I were having the problem that you describe the first thing that I would do would be...

Pull the tunnel cover off, with a pair of pliers pull the little buttons on the release valves up using a fair amount of force and probably with a twisting motion (if for no other reason than just to be 100% confident in my own mind that they are in fact all the way up).

If that didn't do anything, I would probably...

Lift the rear of the tractor off the ground really high (like maybe a foot or more) make sure it is supported really well, start the engine and move the forward/reverse lever back and forth. Please understand that I have no knowledge of any way to bleed the system and this would be the easiest way I can think of to get the fluid higher and closer to the pump. I also have no evidence to support the theory that this will actually do anything, but I, myself, would have to try it.

My biggest fear here, is that when the filter became damaged, a big glob of oily dirt and/or shards of metal from the filter got inside and was sucked into the pump.

Good Luck