70 Brake
 

I am installing a creeper drive and I noticed that the piston for the brake on my 70 does not go straight back, but angles up. Is it supposed to do that, or does that mean it's worn out? This is the tractor my Dad bought new and I know that the rear end has never been apart. I'm thinking about taking it apart for a cleaning and brake service.

Anyone have a pictures that show the brake setup? The ones in the service manual are not the best.

Thanks

You might have to replace clutch/brake return spring.

The clutch return spring is fine. I am looking at the brake rod that pushes against the brake lining retainer inside the reduction housing. It does not push straight back into the housing, it angles up.

Pics wopuld help.

:TTWWP:

Here's what I mean. The part circled in red doesn't seem to be right. It is not straight, it angles up.

70 brake
 

I wonder if the ball is missing , or if the brake pucks are wore out. That piece should be kept level by the ball and adjusting screw. Hope it goes well.Chris

As has already been said, a picture of your tractor of the area in question would be extremely helpful.

I just checked my 102 and the little rod you circled goes straight into the rear end. I would assume the ball is missing.

I went ahead and took it apart tonight. The ball bearing was there, but the brake lining retainer is stuck. It actually broke the end of the adjusting screw.

Looks like I'll be taking the rear end apart for cleaning and new brake linings.

In addition to getting new gaskets for the rear end and the o ring for the brake lining retainer, should I also get a seal for the reduction drive shaft?

reduction pinion shaft
 

I would say if the bearings feel good and the seal's not wet, leave it. Glad you found the brake lever problem. Have fun, Chris

Here's a few pictures of my Creeper installation Mission Creep project.

The rear end opened up. Clean as can be.

The reduction gear. How in the world do I get this off? Everything turns when I try to loosen it.

The brake disc looks ok, but the pads are stuck, probably because the retainer is stuck tight.

reduction gear
 

I think the manual says ; remove gear shifter , lock trans in 2 gears , and remove cap screw . Lift gear up and pull bottom out first. Also the reduction pinion is held in by seal if I remember correctly. Chris

I was able to use a impact gun to bolt out that holds the reduction gear on the one's I took out.

Do they state how to lock the trans in two gears?

If I can locate an impact driver. do I still have to lock the trans in two gears?

Also, does the retainer come out very easily? Mine looks to have a bit of rust on the outside. I was looking at the garden tractor pulling tips website, and read about gluing the brake pucks/pads in place. Is this necessary?

You won't need to lock trans if using impact gun to take cap screw out, but when you retorque upon reassembly it would probably be best. You might be able to wedge a piece of wood against housing and gear upon reassembly, but I don't know if it's acceptable . Your best bet is to read the manual in the tech library. get the shifter off, if you do, gently push 1 shifter fork forward, and the other backward and the trans will be locked up. Good time to check shifter condition also. A good torque wrench is needed. The manual will give you a step by step. You can do it. Have fun, Chris Also , just a dab of grease will hold pucks in place.

You really need to grab the service manual from the tech library. That will answer all of your questions and more.

Got the service manual and removed the reduction gear and housing.
Wanted to know what you guys think of these pictures.

Do the reduction gear and brake disc look ok?

My grandfather silver soldered the shifting forks. I guess it won't be a problem as the repair has lasted 45+ years.

Can't get the brake lining retainer out. How would you guys do it?

The reduction housing has two holes where the lower bolts go through. Anyone seen this before? Might be a casting thing as I found no pieces anywhere and the rear end has never been apart.

Your puck's don't look too bad.You will be able to push out the puck on the top of the pic from the inside.I would not try to remove the inner one as it appears to be in good shape.

Just my 2¢

Anyone know what size of O ring I need for the brake lining retainer? I cannot find anyone that sells them. Also, both the brake pucks measure out to 0.313" thick. Do I need new ones?

Where did you go or what information did you give them?

If you go to Cub Cadet's web site
http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...07=Search&008=
you will find an icon in the middle of the page that says Find a Matching Model. When the new page comes up click on select line under Find Parts by Model. Click on the Garden Tractor folder. The different models folders will up. Click on the model number you are working on. Another screen will open and it will have the list of the different areas of your Cub Cadet. Item #4 is the o-ring. Cub Cadet says the size of the o-ring is 1-3/16 X 1-3/8 X 3/32 . Take those dimensions to an auto parts, dealer that sells tractors or trucks. They should be able to find you the correct o-ring.


You one picture that shows the ball in the brake lining retainer looks to be the wrong size. The wrong size ball will give the problem you are having. Parts lookup says the ball should be a 9/16 diameter ball.

I finally got the ball bearing out. It's 9/16 in diameter, but its pretty rusted.

Those brake pucks are fine...don't bother replacing them.

Ordered the parts. Found o-rings at a hardware store.

On to final cleaning and waiting for the parts

reduction housing
 

I had 1 of those holes in the casting also. I held the bolt in and put a little JB weld in the casting hole, so it wouldn't just squeeze into the bolt hole. Also if you noticed,the 2 lower bolts have a copper washer/gasket. You definitely want to use new ones, to prevent oil leakage. You can get away without patching the hole, I did it for the extra insurance against leakage. Pucks look good, but if you want you can gently chisel them out.Have fun,Chris

How did you keep the JB Weld from sticking to the bolt?

I did it while the reduction housing was separated. Once the JB was spread out on the hole, turn the bolt while pulling it out. Then with a suitable tool or finger ,smooth it out on both sides of hole. I did clean the area the best I could with solvent.I have to wet my fingers sometimes when the JB starts to set up, to smooth it out. Chris

Where did you find the two copper washers?

copper washers
 

I'm sure the cub dealer can get them, but I went to NAPA. They were out of copper ones, but they had some aluminum ones meant for oil pan drain plugs.All he had was metric sizes , were close ,but I had to open up the ID a little to fit. Take the bolt with you. Are you having fun yet, Chris . Also I'm sure you can JB the holes without using the bolt, that's just the way I did it. Have fun

Yeah, NAPA didn't have any copper ones. I'll go back to get the Aluminum ones. Started to JB Weld the holes int he reduction housing, but it started getting real messy and I was concerned about stray bits of epoxy making their way into the works. Do you let it set up a bit before patching the holes? When I tried, it just ran all over the place.

Sorry, I should have said I used JB Steel Stik . The one you slice off what you need, then knead it to a uniform color. Like a putty , use right away.

Sounds like handy stuff. I'll pick some up.

Rebuilt the clutch today and started to button everything up with the new gaskets. Should be together soon.

The JB Stick worked great to seal up the holes in the reduction housing casting.

70
 

Kelpie, good news, looking forward to photos.

So I'm getting it all together now and thought I would ask a dumb question. Can I refill the transaxle through the gearbox before I put the shifter back on?

I assume so. Just wondering.

Yep, that's the fastest way to refill it.

Kelpie's 70
 

So Kelpie, How's it going? All good I hope. From the # of hits on this thread, I'll bet everyone is looking for photos. Chris

Going together slowly in between other things to do. Will post some pictures tonight. I've got the creeper on and painted, and filled in a few holes in the frame. Ready to "un-split" the tractor.

Here's a few pics of the assembly.

I filled in the holes in the reduction housing with JB Steel Stick. Worked out real well.

Everything else went together with no problems. I hope to get it together this weekend.

Great job! Thanks for sharing your pics with us.

So I get the thing together and the driveshaft is off. Looks like the hole that is drilled in the shaft for the pressure plate is off a bit. It has about 1/16" of "play". Looks like I need another driveshaft.