Discs' or Internal Brakes? How do I Choose?
 

You have 2 QL gear drive tractors setting in front of you.

One with internal brakes, the other with discs.

Which one do you choose? :bigthink:

Each must have their good and bad points.

I am leaning towards the discs because the disc brakes will stop on a grade better if one rear wheel looses traction. (I have hills)

The discs do not require transmission removal to service the brakes.

Am I missing something??

Could discs be added to the internal brake tractor for better braking? (Use both systems)

At my age I like stopping as much as going!! Please help me choose!!

the only thing about disc, or internal for that fact, if the tractor doesn't weigh enough to stop, it will just skid. A legitimate 30 yard skid down a 35 degree slope while trying to disengage the deck isn't that fun. Then I added weights! :biggrin2:

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but discs do give me that "warm, fuzzy feeling" for what it's worth....

The answer is simple, they are both QL's, SCRAP THEM! :biggrin2:


I prefer internal

With the external if they build up a little rust or get to wet it takes a sec for them to grab a hold the first time you go to use them. BTDT:bash2: The internal do not have that problem.

It's a cub save them!:beer2:

I concur with Vince,wet brakes do stop both wheels not just one.

I would think that the differential would allow internal brakes to fail to slow/stop the machine if one rear wheel looses traction.

This is a severe circumstance, one that occurs if you have a loader or if a trailer load of firewood is pushing you down a grade.

Won't the differential will allow the low traction tire to counter-rotate, eliminating the braking effort of the internal brake?

Isn't the internal brake similar to depending on engine braking?

:Huh:

The reason I am asking is that I have never used an internal brake Cub Cadet, but the 448 Case with a band brake I had for a short while was a braking nightmare!!

CADplans: you are right, if you get it on a hill one wheel will spin backwards and the other will just roll, though the discs will stop both it may want to go sideways. Thus, the only real way to stop a cub on a hill is to add more weight to the rear. In this case the discs would still be the better choice if they are adjusted and work even.

Just slam it in reverse and hope for the best.:biggrin2: With the internal brake you can put wheel weights on the inside and outside of the rim. I like the external brakes but then again I'm pretty much all flat where I live.

If you decide to listen to Vince, let me know and I will take care of them for you.:ROTF1::ROTF1::Whistle::Sorry:

I say just change your mindset, live with the mentality "brakes! we don't need no stinking brakes!" :buttrock:

I've yet to use the breaks on any cub I have owned and driven.
But than I always plan out my plan of action ahead of time and have never found myself in need of breaks on any garden tractor or lawn mower.

I would have to go with internal. My 128 and 1812 have discs and they don't stop! I have tighted up the brake on the 128 it stop after 5ft but stops when the tractor goes backward idk y tho. My 73 has prefect brakes it stops as soon as the petal is pressed.

In that case, both your 128 and 1812 need new brake pads and an adjustment. My tractors with external brakes do not have this issue with properly-adjusted, good-condition brakes.

I have played with many cubs with both break set ups. I would hands down choose internal breaks. They always stop my tractors on a dime and require little to no maintenance. external on the other hand dont work as well and cost much more to replace the pads. This is just my opinion to each there own.:beerchug:

With a hydro you don't need no schteenking brakes! :beerchug:

I like the internals over the disc because the internals require little maintenance and the disc's need a lot of maintenance.