advice with a 1650
 

Good morning everybody!!! I need some friendly advice today. I have the chance to add a 1979 1650 to my collection. The engine runs fairly well although it leaks a little oil, the hydro runs fine. The tin is in good shape although its missing the side panels ( which to me seems like no big deal). It has a 44" deck on it now but I am hoping that one of my 50C decks might fit it.
The only reason that I am fearful of buying it is the quietline factor, meaning the iso mounts. Are these a BAD thing? Are there any horror stories related to them breaking down and being hard to replace? How can I tell if they need replacing? I think that its a good deal ($275) but am I leary of those type engine of mounts. Well, that's it. Have a great day!!!:beerchug:

:IH Trusted Hand:

They aren't difficult to replace, but they are expensive. If the tractor hasn't been maintained, it'll take a lot of $$$ to make things right. I'm guessing the oil leak is probably related to bad mounts. It costs about $100 for the mounts, $50-$100 to fix the parts of the driveshaft that got torn up by the engine floating around in there, and probably some other things. The 50C deck will fit with a change of drive pulley. I would get a set of side panels for it. The tractor is designed with them in place, and may not cool properly without them.

Try to wiggle the motor side by side forcefully. If you get any movement, they need replacing. If there's an oil leak and the mounts are covered in oil, they need replacing. Fix the oil leak at the same time, or the new mounts will go bad very quickly.

Thanks very much for the reply Matt. I going to try and get a visit in to see the tractor tomorrow or Friday and I will do what you mentioned. I will reply with what I've discovered. :beerchug:

side panels are a dime a dozen and for that price I would buy sight unseen, those 1650s are tanks and well worth the investment. 275 + 100 + 100 and you still come in well under what they are worth and trust me, it will be money well spent. good luck

Thanks for the advice Tubby. I tried to get a hold of the guy earlier but couldn't. I will try again tomorrow.

Hey papaglide, tell ya what I'm gonna do. I just started vacation, so if you let me know where in NY you are I'll give up some time workin round the house, drive up and check out that machine for you. Wouldn't want you to get stuck with it. I'll even bring a trailer so if need be I can take er home to do a thorough inspection. Then, if I can remember where you're at I'll bring it back, maybe. Such a deal.
Heck, like the guys say, for that price you can't lose.
Mike C

PapaGlide: I strongly recommend the procedure found in the link..
Myron B
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html

advice with a 1650
 

You guys know that I'm a newbie. Having said that, I have a really silly question...

Is it possible to just get rid of the quiet line feature, and put it together like other tractors?

Not really...it's called "buy a different tractor"...:BlahBlah:

Well the end of this story goes like this: I finally got hold of the seller this morning by phone and he said, "I'm sorry Mike, but I sold that tractor Friday morning..." I guess that my snail like, precautionary purchasing methods don't work too well. Like my Dad used to say " dammit, S@#T or get off the pot!!!"

I think It's mine?
 

Hey Papaglide,I believe I purchased the 1650 you were looking at,mine has the oil leak and it was $275.I bought this to use my snowthrower from my 1450 on it so the leak really didn't bother me since I wouldn't use it that much(Plus it is great for parts).My question is if it is the mounts that are bad why does the oil come out and where would it be comming from on the engine?

cub14501650 I really don't know. That's why I hesitated so much, I am a novice with the repair on these things. Matt G. is really proficient at fixin these tractors as are some of the other fellas around. I hope that it is a good tractor for you. BTW, where abouts are you located, I'm up a little north of Lockport.

Cub 1650 & Papaglide...Bad motor mounts can cause the bolts to eat through the threaded holes in the aluminum pan or just wear a hole in the pan from vibration and L - e - a - k !! This is particulparly true on the QLs where the owner has allowed the mounts and Iso-Bars to really deteriorate!! New motor mounts and a replacement pan usually solves it.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

Papaglide,I am in Amherst(The tractor was in Ransomville)..Like I said I am going to only use it to snowblow,so I won't use it that much and my attachment off my 1450 fits perfectly.Plus the guy gave it to me for $260 so even for parts it was a great deal and the guy I bought it from was really nice.Mbounds,it seems like the leak is comming from the top of the engine,I have read that some Cubs have trouble with the seal around the PTO,I thought this was the case when I first bought it but although I haven't tinkered at all with it yet it looks like the oil is dripping above the PTO(But it could be possibly getting flung up by the rotation of the PTO shaft?

It wouldn't be too difficult to take the PTO clutch off and see. You want to fix that oil leak ASAP, as the leaking oil turns the iso-mounts into blobs of soft rubber.

OK thanks,but if it isn't the PTO then that would only leave the headgasket possibly leaking then?...But it also seems to leak when the tractor is at rest so I don't know if the oil level would even reach the PTO seal..

It's probably not the head gasket. If it's blowing that much oil out of the head gasket, you've got much more serious problems. Plus, it would be coming out of the muffler box, and most likely wouldn't be in the area you're describing. It could also be the governor shaft nut, breather, oil pan, or a number of other things.

Well thanks,I will have to pull it apart,I don't think it is the head gasket either,But if I put oil in it and not run it it will leak...So the probably does rule it out..

Well,I quickly poked my head under the tractor today(I removed the yellow mower mount) and it looks like oil is dripping from a large yellow plate under the engine.If I can remove the plate(I think it was bolted under the frame) and if it is the oil pan,would it be easy to spot the leak?Also,can I remove the pan without removing the engine?I know I will need to remove the engine to replace the mounts but I would like to see the leak in the mean time.Thanks

Nope, the oil pan connects the engine to the tractor. It's easier to replace the mounts by removing the engine, anyway.

Matt...Thanks for the info,I finnally got to actually getting dirty and taking the pannel off the bottom of the frame and upon further inspection I have a leak in my oil pan(Thanks!).It was really deceiving to actually tell where the leak was comming from because the oil was leaking on the mount for the mower deck and the belt was indeed picking up oil from the flat brace on the deck and throwing it up around the PTO and the front of the engine.I called around and found a used pan and mounts pretty cheap,as long as these weren't leaking do you think used is an ok idea?

Get new mounts or you'll probably be in there again. I'd add the cross brace between the framerails, as well.

Uuuuhhhh Matt: "Between the frame rails"??? Don't 'cha mean "between the Iso-Bars" ??

Cub 1650: Look for the correct fix on page 3 of the Technical info the the Tractors and scan down about middle of the page and click on "Quietline Motor Modification" for a detailed explanation of this QL engine mount upgrade. Like Matt said...it is strongly recommended that you do this. Use the removed pan as a template...

Myron B

That's what I meant. These 15-hour days are killing me...

While you're doing the craddle mod, you might want to think about pulling the engine on your 1450 and doing the mod to that one too. It seems to really help on these a bunch. You do it to your 1450 and you'll think you have a new tractor.

AJ

OK I have the mounts and the pan,is there a gasket that I need to place between the engine and the pan?(Or a gasket out of a tube?)....Just asking before I pull the engine this weekend..Thanks!

Yep, there's a gasket in there...any good Cub Cadet dealer should be able to get you one.

The 1650 I picked up earlier this year had exactly the condition described by MBounds: oil leak caused by mounting bolt wearing through the aluminum pan, caused by bad ISO mounts. I replaced the pan with a cast iron one, modified the engine cradle, and installed new ISO rubber. Plan on making these modifications to your QL. BTW I'm about 50 miles east of cub14501650.

You forgot to tell us how all that worked out.:biggrin2.gif:

Ok MPF8055 where did you get a cast iron pan?I was thinking the same thing,why don't they make a stronger aftermarket pan?(How much?)..Also,say you didn't replace the Isomounts and used metal spacers in it's place,other than doing obvious damage again to the flimsy oil pan,would that lead to other problems?Provided you mounted the engine exactly the same place as with the iso mounts.I know there would be alot more vibration..

It's not that the oil pan is flimsy or anything...it'll be fine if everything is taken care of and maintained, but that rarely happens to these. The iron pan is a bit more tolerant than the aluminum one. The iron pans were used on earlier 12 and 14 hp engines.

I located the cast iron pan and ISO rubber at Patton Acres, one of the forum sponsors. As for the overall project, I'm still preparing some sheet metal for painting. The white has been shot on the hood, side panels, front end and plow blade. The yellow is on the frame but not the body pan. The rotted battery tray needs to be cut-out and replace with stainless. The motor is finished, and the gaskets replaced in the hydro pump. Decals are on their way from Maple-Hunter. Still need to get tires all around. The original Firestones look OK but don't grab worth a darn.

What type of spray gun did you use? Did you use IH paint? Post some pix if you get a chance. I'm thinking of painting my 149, and I would appreciate the gun model and your experience with it. Any other opinions on relatively inexpensive spray guns ($100 approx)welcome too! Thanks, Marty

I used paint purchased from my local CC dealer, and thinned it with xylenes. I tried mineral spirits, but found that it didn't mix well and had to be made very thin. The xylenes (available at Lowes and other places) thins the paint well at around 30% solvent/70% paint. You may need to go thinner with different equipment. My gun was an HVLP purchased at harbor freight (p/n 43430). Here's a link to some info: http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com...Pspraygun.html

It worked real well, but you have to go slow and not let the paint build up too much or it will sag. The finish was smooth and glossy whereas the mineral spirits made it tough to get a gloss finish.

Are there instructions somewhere for posting pictures? I'd be happy to put some up here.

Hardener is also a must in my opinion. The paint will be very shiny and will develop resistance to gas eventually. Otherwise, fresh paint is lifted by gas or even gas fumes. Let the paint cure for a month if you can. Even paint with hardener in it will take awhile to develop gas resistance.

Thanks for the info MFP8055. searched 43430 on harbor freight, turned up this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66222 If that's it, for $60 looks like a bargain. I can't get any pictures to load the large version, they just hang when I click the thumbnails, so can't help with pix, but thanks for offering.

motor mounts
 

you can get upper mounts after market 20.00 for 4

That's the one mirt54. be sure to get a water filter in your air line too. Some folks take the regulator and water filter together and make a belt clip for the them. Then a short line from the belt to the gun. I reduces the size of the gun (no reg) and put the strain of dragging the hose on the belt. I haven't done this this, but will. Haven't tried the hardener either, but it sounds like a good idea.

The cast iron pan shows up on Ebay quite often..it is the stock pan on earlier tractors.

Thanks
 

Thanks MFP8055 for all the info!