As I stated, I got a WF front axle complete with spindles and wheels, so I tore that apart and painted it today.
I also painted the transmission and a couple other random odds and ends,
you don't realize how many parts there are to these things till you have to prep and pint them all!!
Also getting the shop warm enough to shoot paint is quite a chore when it's -5 outside.

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I am also in the process of getting the frame ready to paint
I have welded a ground down nut to the rearward side of the axle cradle, and a collar with a set screw to the front.
The Idea is when the bolt is installed you tighten the set screw and it keeps the bolt from moving, forcing the axle to pivot on the bolt rather then the bolt turning in the frame...

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Nice job so far Mike, I like the red and would go with the red/silver wheels.
I like the idea of welding the axle nut and will be doing such to a 70 project that I am currently working on. However I'm thinking that a large lock washer would work in place of the collar on the other side. Opinions anyone?

I personally never saw anything wrong with the original pin design. Pin can't turn, because it's set with a spirol pin. As long as the axle gets greased, it was a good design. Yes, the bolster can spread.... but only after years of use. Even then, I never thought it bad to bend back, or even shim up with washers to fix.

On the bolt deal, welding a nut on and using a lock washer would be fine. Shouldn't back out. Set screw idea looks like a lot of work.... plus, we have all seen how troublesome PTO's can be to remove. I don't care for set screws. All just seems like a lot of work to fix a non major issue to me. :bigthink:

I'm kinda with J-Mech on this. I'd drill out the set screw, drill through the bolt and collar and run a cotter pin through there. so close to the ground and using plain steel components (as opposed to stainless) that set screw is bound to rust in place quickly.

That's not a bad idea actually, I got rid of the old setup cause the pin had seized in the axel causing the cradle to become badly worn. I wanted a way to secure the Bolt/pin so it would remain tight in the frame.

I do like the idea of through pining it though, will probably make future disassembly easier:bigthink:

Only possible issue with using a lock washer is you may crush the cradle against the axle before you crush the washer... a 3/4" lock washer is pretty rugged

you could always try it and see if it would work first.

Some pictures of the bulkhead repair. It was cracked at each corner above the mounting bolts, so I welded it up and ground it back down.
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The cross-member for the clutch arm pivot was also bent and coming apart so in preparation for a heavier spring I decided to cut it out and replace it with a piece of 1/4" bar... much stronger, and looks better (I think).
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And I finally got the frame painted up.
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Use a stover nut on the axle pin, no lock washer needed.

Looks good Mike! Nice clutch crossmember!:biggrin2: You won't ever have trouble with that i don't believe!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

A lock washer might work fine, it will crush before the channel does. Based on my experience squeezing the channel closed with a 3/4 inch bolt, washers and a nut. I'd prefer a big nylock nut or a spirol/cotter pin.