I’ll try and get everyone in one post here,

Yes Sam that is a good thought, thanks for the link. I actually already had it only the picture quality was very poor that’s why I referred to the schemat.., sorry, picture on Partstree, Thanks again.

Thanks Mike, I appreciate your input.

And J-Mech, thank you too. And don’t worry, being the father of 3 boys more often than not I too adopt the “Do it my way or Die!”, attitude.

And sawdustdad, I have been considering that, that’s why I purchased two rag joints, just in case. My concern is that it might force the end of the drive shaft “out” of the ball bushing.

Darkminion, thanks, the ball bearing is in place.

OK, so that’s done. Looks like I’ll be taking this apart soon. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
:Thanks:

Admit it, you just wanted to use that handy dandy spring compressor again!

Yeah red, I kinda thought I'd be back into it. How about your's, did you end up replacing that lever arm?

As long as we are adding up everyone's 2 cents worth I'll ad this...

The throw out bearing only goes on ONE WAY, period. If you look at it, it should be obvious which is the correct way.

Also, from the pictures you posted, it appears the pins on your drive plate are all the same length and you are missing the anti rattle spring. One of the pins should be longer than the other 2, this is the one that retains the anti-rattle spring. It goes on the pin before the clutch disc and keeps it from flopping around on the pins when the clutch is disengaged thus hogging out the holes.

Excess operation of the tractor, such as when using a shredder with the brake pedal depressed and the clutch dis-engaged, will likely lead to premature T/O bearing failure, kinda like when you got hollered at by Dad or the driver training instructor for riding the clutch when learning to drive, LOL BTDT bout 60 years ago!! Mis-adjusted clutch (no free play) will result in the same malady. At $50 a pop, Ya don't want to wreck that bearing. My 126 still has an original IH bearing in use.

I just happen to have my 126 ready to install and available for some pictures.
However, it is a NF and the driver is somewhat different than yours but otherwise pretty much the same, the NF does not utilize the teaser spring cup.

I am going to, with two back to back snow events and now a week of rain I haven't worked in three weeks so clutch is on hold for a few weeks. Wife OKed the parts purchase but I don't really need it at this time so I can wait. I was going to reuse the disc but just going to replace it all and fix it right the first time. Thanks J-Mech for making me fix it right!! :bash2:

That's a great looking clutch finsruskw , and thanks for your 2 cents, I appreciate it. And you're right, it is obvious how the t/o bearing goes, when I was assembling it I looked at it and said "dang! that release arm shouldn't be acting on that face of the bearing, it should be on the other side, with the metal casing!", but allas, I refered back to the schemat.., sorry, picture and disposed of better judgement! And so it goes... Thanks for your help.

The dimples on the fork should contact the outside race of the bearing, no matter which way the bearing is installed. Yes, the bearing only goes in one way, but the dimples should contact the outside race either way.

When rebuilding a clutch I will not use the anti rattle springs.

Heck those pics are the first anti rattle springs/clips I've ever seen! My 1200 has never had them as long as I can remember.

My 128 has all three anti=rattle springs and the clutch with metal in the middle.
Friction part is not worn, just funky from sitting in contact with PP. Getting a new disc anyway but not sure about springs.

id install those anti rattle springs right into the garbage can.:biggrin2: they dont do anything but break and make more noise.

So, I finally got around to putting my clutch back together. A big thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction, especially to Sam Mac for sending me the link to the service manual, twice. Maybe if I had paid more attention the first time I ….. well anyway, thanks again.

Here was the problem causing the play in the release arm;

And my solution, a piece of 3/8” ID tubing to make some “bushings”, and a ”sleeve”, some spatter, uh, I mean welding, and a longer bolt.

And I really liked Sawdustdad’s suggestion of using 2 rag joints, so I filled the existing spirol pin hole for the driveshaft output yoke with a section of rod and a little weld and drilled a new hole further forward on the shaft and, 2 rag joints.

So today I decided to service the rear end on the 1200. I drained the fluid and cleaned out the innerds. My mityvac brake bleeder worked real well to suck up all the remaining fluid that didn’t seem to want to drain out. After everything was cleaned up and threaded holes chased out I used red lock tite to install 5 studs that I made out of 3/8” hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts. I replaced one of the axle tube outer bearing (part # 941-0363) and seal (part # 921-0187) and installed a new cover gasket (part # 350837-R3). Then I went out and picked up a 5 gallon bucket of hytran equivalent (meets or exceeds International B-6 Specification) from Napa to fill the gear box;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4673

Gave the 1450 the same treatment, replaced the hydro filter (Stens part # 120-265), and sent the hydro relief valves out to be rebuilt;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...459#post339459

I mounted my hitch;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...511#post319511

I built a lawn rake. Thanks Jason for the great idea!

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...422#post302422

..and I built a 3 point York rake;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...170#post426170

Think it's time for a break...:bigthink:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...966#post320966

c
 

Hi, good job on the clutch. Lots of little worn areas add up to a lot. I see you have better pin and pilot bearing engagement now. Nice rake, i need to make one for a walnut picker-upper. Mike:biggrin2:

So just a few things;

Installed the seat, gas tank and rear lift from my parts tractor.

Got my spring assist (part # PN/ IH-548380-R91)[/COLOR] painted and installed.

Picked up some wheel weights from a guy in town and added them to the rears.

Installed the headlights that I bought on ebay. (In retrospect I think I would rather have bought the grommets and bulbs from here http://ccspecialties.org/lights.html and taken a dremel cutoff wheel to my original screen).

Installed a back work light that I got from Amazon;

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H1598600...or+work+lights

And will be controlling both headlights and taillight with this switch;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXQM3/...=IIG8NFD7AYYXD

Headlights will be on position 1 and headlights and taillight will be on position 2.

I think it might be time for some new front tires...

Finished installing and wiring my lights and horn. Used this horn that I picked up locally;

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/w...rm=wolo+305-2t

Picked up power off of the starter relay B+ terminal and ran it through this circuit breaker;

http://www.wiringproducts.com/10-amp...ght-angle.html

With this cover;

http://www.wiringproducts.com/standa...ot-yellow.html

And this horn button;

http://www.wiringproducts.com/heavy-...on-switch.html

Power distribution through this fuse block;

http://www.wiringproducts.com/6-circ...use-block.html

and tied in a pig tail for one of these trickle chargers;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00726MXOQ/...I3VJX7YBUVB1JG

Also, added an additional B- cable to one of the starter to engine block mounting bolts.

Cleaned up the battery terminals and applied a light coating of petroleum jelly;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...462#post343462

While I was on a roll I figured I might as well pull those rear reflectors, drill out the fenders and add some

Grote LED tail lights (part # 47732) from here;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBWNIG/...I26DEE6C1F7ELO

Pictures of the lights on...

Picture of the horn honking...

Picture of me out of gas... just before I pushed it back up the hill.

Looks great!

Thanks Brian, the horn sounds great, hit it twice and it sounds just like the Roadrunner.

So… I got my points saver installed, and my new coil and spark plug wire.
Thanks Dave!

http://www.kirkengines.com/#Products

Update:10-05-2015, 07:17 AM;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...703#post347703

And my new air filter;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YN64/...I2I1TGULO39UE0

and installed a new spark plug, (gap .035 inches);

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F0K0FK/...=IRTZPYUOSFQHJ

and points;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015MLULK/...I33EIKVQFGFNEL

Set the timing like this ( turned out to be .018 gap at the points);

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/to...tic_timing.pdf

And installed a new points cover gasket and grommet that I picked up from our sponsor here;

https://www.facebook.com/CubCadetand...9696141763776/

:beerchug:

And,… following the thread in the tech section on how to destroy a perfectly good muffler,…

I cleaned out my muffler.

Why would you do that? .......... :Unknown:

Just bored I guess.

You tore that apart intentionally??????? Never been that bored

Me neither......

From Dave Kirk's Killer Kohler Part 2

http://www.kirkengines.com/downloads...hlerPartII.pdf

"The standard muffler used is a three-chambered affair, housed in a 12 inch long by 5 inch
diameter can. While effective at reducing noise, it is somewhat restrictive to gas flow as
compared to a straight through glass pack. Searching several catalogs yielded nothing in
a high performance muffler in this size and configuration. A serviceable, used, standard
muffler was thus obtained and the end cap removed by grinding away the crimp. The
internal baffles and central tube were then removed by chisel and hammer, carefully
breaking through the spot welds. After removal, an empty can remained. A ¼ inch thick
sheet of muffler fiberglass wool was carefully measured and cut to line the inside of the
can diameter. A matching sheet of perforated steel was cut and placed inside of the
fiberglass wool. The perforated sheet was tack welded on the seam such that it forms a
rigid cylinder to tightly hold the fiberglass against the outer can walls. The end cap was
welded back on and the muffler painted with high temperature “barbeque black” paint. It
looked totally stock from outward appearances.
I reassembled it to the engine, eagerly anticipating the sound to be pleasingly noisier. To
my amazement, the muffler was actually quieter than stock! But it did have a nice, deep,
healthy sound, especially when the engine was carrying a heavy load. I had to slightly
richen the high-speed needle setting on the carburetor – a positive sign indicating that
airflow had been increased by this modification. Instead of the exhaust flow having a
tortuous and restrictive path to the outlet, it now exits into a large volume plenum with
pressure waves muted by the absorption properties of the wool. The engine now felt
stronger than ever with a baritone authority to its voice."

Thanks to Dave Kirk.

Got all my stuff together for my spindle upgrade;

All ready to be welded.:beerchug:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...587#post344587

And painted. I used the ol' "glop it on till it starts to run, then you're dun" technique.:biggrin2:

And got a couple of new rims. From here;

http://www.cedarrapidstire.com/produ...-75-0815293266

Thanks to these guys for the idea and parts links;

http://www.pf-engineering.com/spindle-upgrade