I have worked on this 122 everyday since the day after I got it home I have checked everything that I can think of with the exception of the ignition switch.
Today I have 12 hours under over in it. Still don't know what is wrong with it.
I purchased it as a running machine, I'm not good at locating trouble.
Right now I have well over 50 hrs on it still as puzzled as the day it wouldn't start.
It don't click it is as dead as something sucked the life right out of it. It has no response at all when I turn the key.

Have you tried using a jumper cable and jumping from the batter to the starter to see if it will turn over. If so, then you probably have a bad ignition switch or solenoid. The fact you aren't even hearing the solenoid click makes me think your switch is bad or needs cleaned real good or that the solenoid is bad.

Use a jump pack or battery charger and place the pos on the A terminal ,the one with the 2wires and the ground to the bolt on the s/ g
Does it turn over?
Try this with the key on now and see if it starts up.
If it starts remove the cables from the charger,jump pack and it should still run.Let us know the outcome.
Keep us posted

Do you have a test light? This is the simplest way I know to check electrical issues?

The 122 has pretty simple wiring compared to the later models. You're not getting any good help because you're being so vague as to what you have and haven't tried. I can't imagine what you've spent 50 hours checking.

Here is the wiring diagram from the tech library:
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...ts/WD1x2_3.jpg

About all you've given us to go on is that the battery seems to be good. I'm guessing you are getting nowhere because you have no multimeter, so therefore, the amount of troubleshooting you can do is extremely limited. Digital multimeters are like $3 at Harbor Freight, so there's no excuse; go get one and start checking things out.

There's two ways you can do this: check for continuity with the battery removed, or check for voltage with the battery installed. Since all of the wiring is behind the battery on a 122, the former is considerably easier. Put your new multimeter on the 10 ohm setting; when you touch the meter leads together, the resistance goes from infinity to ~1 ohm, give or take, depending on the meter. This is basically the internal resistance of the meter. So when checking for continuity, you have it if the resistance is near 1 ohm, and you don't if it stays at infinity.

If you haven't already, make sure the ground cable from the battery to the frame is good and is making contact...use the meter to check continuity from the - terminal of the battery to some bare metal on the engine. Now, make sure there is continuity between the + battery cable end and the large terminal it connects to on the solenoid as shown in the diagram. If that checks out, then remove the nut that holds the ignition switch in the dash and bring it out in the open where you can get at it. Remove the switch from the harness and clean it, then check it as follows: (Note to Roland...the original diagrams usually have a table listing what ignition switch terminals have continuity in each position...that would be good to have on your colorful diagrams)

Off position: No terminals connected
On position: B and I terminals connected
Start position: B, I, and S terminals all connected

Particularly for your case, if there is no continuity between the B and S terminal in the start position, that is likely your problem.

If the switch is good, check the wiring. With the safety switch connected and the clutch pedal locked down, check for continuity between the small terminal on the solenoid and the wire in the ignition switch connector that goes to the "S" terminal on the ignition switch. If there is continuity there, that circuit isn't the problem. If there isn't, one of those two wires, the safety switch, or some connection in there is the problem. Next check the wire from the "A" terminal of the S/G to the other large terminal of the solenoid. If that's ok, then I'd be pretty suspicious of the solenoid. Make sure there is continuity (there may be a small but finite resistance) between the case of the solenoid and the small terminal that the wire from the ignition switch connects to. Also make sure the solenoid is grounding to the chassis.

This isn't a very complete set of instructions because like I've already said, you haven't given us much to work with. Try this and let us know how far you get. We will be able to help you more easily with more specific information.

Didn't mean to sound heartless! But I've been where you are, and it's frustrating at times, but you can't just throw in the towel.
You'll get it figured out with these guys in your corner, if you don't get it today, come back tomorrow and things will look a whole lot better.

I did a little brain storming while looking at the wiring diagram. You have nothing when you turn the switch so as far as I can see your problem is narrowed down to 1 the ignition switch or 2 the solonoid or 3 the safety switch. Anything else would allow the starter to turn over but it would not start. Of course a broken wire between any of those components would have the same effect. To my knowledge there is no fuze in the tractor electrical system but there is one in the light curcuit.

I feel your pain, I have a 125 that has been a pita to get wired too. I tried making my own harness no luck, bought a new one and it was the wrong one:bash2:. Finally took the new one removed the stuff that didn't match soldered it back together and after a total of probably 20 hours of dinkin around the runs like a charm.

stick with it you will get there.

:biggrin2:Mark this day in your calender!

Last night we finally got the starter to spin, but It wouldn't start. :BangPC:
I put the charger on the battery, and retired for the night.:bigthink:

Today in the snow I finally got it started.

This was only after cleaning every electrical terminal. and I mean every.
Replaced terminal ends. added where there wasn't any.

I used electrial cleaner on every connection.
Removed ignition switch cleaned and replace even though it was not a cub cadet switch.:Unknown:
All this was done without using a multi-meter.
I have multi-meters but I have no idea on how to use them.:biggrin2:

The only thing that was changed was very hogged up terminal ends.
All connections were cleaned.

Good job, way to stick with it, you should play around with your multi-meter they're pretty neat. :Detective1:
"A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down"