actually just got an idea to sawzall the axle pin flush with the axle, and take it to the hydraulic press to push it out. Then can make and weld on new frame bushings... and turn a new pin (if 1018 steel would be good enough)

Is is advisable not to quench anything in water that has been heated or welded while still hot to the touch.
I'll not go into metallurgy 101 here, it is a 6 year college degree minimum.
What is done is done, the driveshaft can be replaced if it is worn.
Hopefully you did not heat the input shaft.
Stainless is pretty and corrosion free, but soft.
I'd use 5/8" dia. CRS from tractor supply
easy to get and it works just fine.
( it runs about .6235-.624 depending on the supplier) :bigthink:

Is the axle pin straight up down or angled? Maybe even toward the frame?
If you at all use a punch smaller than the pin, you'll lock the pin up tighter than an engine sitting in the open without a rain cap on the exhuast. You will pound like the dickens for a while!
But if its just rusty hit it good hard and drive home with a good pin punch.
Quenching makes it brittle hard martensite.
Agree with ol george. Just get shaft from a machine shop. About 2 bucks a foot. If your lucky they have stress proof 1144.

Cut a grease pocket in your new pin and drill and tap the axle for a grease zerk. Tighten up the "C" channel, replace (if needed) bushings, tie rod and drag link ends, rebuild the steering gear box and you are all set. will drive as new.

I do this to all my cubs, Then they are a joy to drive.

End of issues

The war is over
 

That pin wasnt going to move. Smashing it with a 6lb maul it just laughed. So I cut the ends off inside the channel to get it out, and at that point, I could have went to a hydraulic press, but didnt feel like it so i drilled the center out and attempted heat. No luck. So I drilled it bigger and bigger to get a thin wall, cut that with a jig saw with a metal blade making a slit, and peeled it in with a Snap-On center punch. Very impressed with Snap-On metal quality. The hole has some rust scale with I'll clean up and can enlarge the little slit and add a zerk fitting that should help lubricate the new pin what Finrus said.

Question, can I just use mild steel or cut off a 3/4" bolt for the pin?

Something to consider since you will need the frame bushings...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-A...oAAOSwTxpbz7Vo

Or Jeff in Pa. makes the pin, maybe bushings too.

Jeff does make both as I’ve bought them from him. I may have got the prototype set!

Thanks guys. Is the pin ok to use mild steel like 1018? I have plenty of that and could turn it including a center lube channel. Could also use a 3/4" bolt (cut the head and thread end off and drill for pins) maybe?

You want the pin to be softer than the axle or the frame bushings so it wears, and is a replaceable part. I'd turn a new one, or buy a replacement. I don't think the bolt will have the proper diameter to be a good fit.

thanks sawdust. I only meant to use a bolt as raw stock and turn it down. But i have plenty of cold rolled and will use that.