An backfire through the intake, or carb can also point to a lean fuel condition.......

I don't believe the ACR is the issue. Once the engine is running the ACR is taken out of the picture because of centrifigul force on the spring and weights. As Roland stated I would try closing up the point gap to.018 or less. If the engine has a lot of mileage on it the point push rod could have significant wear on it or the lobe on the cam could have a groove worn it which will throw the timing off quite a bit. :bigthink:

hey jonathan it wont even start. as soon as it hits compression stroke it pops back

guys yall are a big help but no matter what i do its all still not right.../like i said the PO had the exhaust valve set really tight and the intake in specs...but im gonna try more on this either today or tomorrow

Brandon, try pulling off the spark plug wire so it wont have ignition and crank the engine (with a strong Battery). Does it crank at a nice even pace or does it turn and balk, turn and balk. If its the latter then I agree that something is amok with the ACR (ACR not slightly opening the exhaust valve). If that is the case you might as well go ahead and take care of that first because all the rest is a waste of time until that is right (imo).

I've gotten into the habit of taking a piece of paper and running it through the points while they are closed. seams like they get a little oil residue on them during manufacturing that cause's problems.
few other things to check
sure you have the correct coil?
condenser hooked to the neg side of the coil?
wire on the neg side of the coil goes to the points?
ignition switch is good?
plug wire good? fits snug at the coil and plug?

Ironman it does it with the plug wire off, turns over and stops on compression stroke everytime

Dvogtvpe...everything checks out good but im really leaning toward the acr

Brandon, I've bee down that road with the ACR, and mine popped back through the carb also, although if mine got through the compression stroke enough to start, it ran fine. Here is what I did........on your cam gear there are weights and a very fine hairlike spring. For starting the weights allow the exhaust valve to remain partially open to reduce compression so the starter doesn't have to fight it. As the engine starts rpm's build and centrifical force pivots the weights away from opening the exhaust valve. The before mentioned hairlike spring pulls the weights into position when the engine is not running so that the weights can do their job for starting. It is possible that the spring could be broken, weak, or out of position on the weights. You can view the cam gear, the weights, and the spring by taking the cam gear cover off of the side of the engine, just below the carb. It is very tight quarters, but my spring was out of place and I was able to get it back where it belongs with a wire hook. If you are that lucky that you have same problem and result, then I think you would have to go back and recheck the valve settings again. See this... http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinec...79.pdf#page=95

I had a spring off also. S/G wouldn't push it past the compression stroke. Hooked the spring back up and was good to go. IIRC I had to remove the oil pan and go through the bottom.

take the head off and check it. then you'll know. instructions are in the manual and it tells you how to adjust it