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  #1  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:38 PM
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eastonct124 eastonct124 is offline
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Default Moldboard adjustment questions...

I read a thread this year (at some point) that detailed all the working parts and how to adjust it for the right depth and all.
I picked up a used brinly.....everything was loose, so I tightened it all up, straightened the tabs that hold the adjuster collar (?), and gotit so it looks (sorta) in photos. The only thing it didn't come with was the draw bar, so I used a heavy gauge chain.
It's on my 122 with hydro lift. Questions are as follows:

1: When it is in travel position, it's only a few inches off the ground ( is this right?).
2: when it's high enough to clear, in the down position it doesn't seem like I'm going to get a 10" furrow.

I could use some direction as well as with adjusting the blade and correct position of the disc.

Thanks.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:49 PM
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It should be alot higher off the ground than that with the lift raised all the way.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4692
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:17 PM
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The furrow depth should be half the width of the plow; for a 10" plow, expect a depth of 5", give or take.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:33 PM
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Thanks guys. I failed to mention that I'm breaking new ground...and it's not what you'd call a level surface.
So, between the plow being adjuted wrong, and the tractor doing the ups and downs......I'm not happy. But, doing it with the 1A is tooth jaring and takes too long.
But, it does a nice job.
That manual should help out. Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:58 AM
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eastonct124, This was the first year that I plowed with my 122 rather than my 1282 so I had to make some adjustments to the hitch and plow. Your only going to get about a 6 or 7 inch furrow depth with these plows. Adjust your crank so the point tips down more if your not getting this depth.
Here's what I set mine at:
BOTTOM U BRACKET- Top Hole
LIFT BARS- Second Hole from Bottom
HITCH PIN- Far left hole when standing behind the tractor
With these settings, your plow tip will only be about 3 inches off the ground when fully raised.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:41 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Here is how I set up a plow.
So we are on the same page/name of part here a link to a parts list:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4693

1. Measure the distance between the rear wheels.

2. With that measurement refer to this chart:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4692
and set the yoke assembly (#8) according to the chart.

3. With the tractor and plow on a flat surface lower the plow. Adjust the plow so the rear of the land assembly (#23-24-26 depending on plow width-parts list) so it is roughly an 1 inch off the surface. This is a rough setting. Sleeve hitch setting: lower link-top hole. Llift straps-middle or next lower hole.

4. Now it is time to try your first furrow. Go around 5-6 feet with the plow in the ground and stop. Check the plow to see how it is following the tractor. The plow should be parallel with the tractor. If not adjust one of the bolts in the sleeve hitch so it helps straighten the plow out. Check the land assembly-it should be roughly an inch or less off the bottom of the furrow wall. The first furrow will not be very deep because of the angle on the yoke assembly is designed for a deeper furrow. Keep going 5-6 feet until plow is set or you make it to the end of area to be plowed.

5. The second furrow should be deeper. If your don't have plow set right from first pass keep going 5-6 feet and stop/adjust the plow. You may have to change holes in your lift straps depending on how deep the plow goes.

6. The coulter assembly (12-15) needs set after the plow/tractor is set. I like to have the coulter assembly cut half the plow depth. Make sure the coulter assembly swings out.

This will get your rig able to plow. You may need to do some fine tuning to the tractor/plow rig. The best thing to do is adjust one thing at a time so you know if that adjustment did any good.

Plowing sod is is an adventure by itself. Because of the root system sod have I only plow 3-4 inches deep. I like to plow 4-5 inches deep on soil that has been plow in the past. When the plow is set right the back of the land assembly should be less than 1/2 inch off the bottom of the furrow. I usually plow in second gear with a manual trans Cub. I try to plow around 3 mph.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2010, 09:38 PM
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Dale,
Great instructions - this should be included here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=174

It should be definitely a "sticky" topic.
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:40 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Thanks Terry!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:03 PM
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Thanks Merk
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2010, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
Here is how I set up a plow.
So we are on the same page/name of part here a link to a parts list:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4693

1. Measure the distance between the rear wheels.

2. With that measurement refer to this chart:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4692
and set the yoke assembly (#8) according to the chart.
I have a Simplicity plow which uses a narrow hitch plate (refer to the bottom hitch plate in the image below and item #8 on the above link to the parts). The Simplicity plow only has one hole for the hitch plate. I would like to make it wide so I can get 3 holes in the hitch plate. Does anyone have the distance between holes (see top hitch plate on the image below)?

Also, referring to the chart in the link above, I'm assuming the hole location in reference to the width of the rear tire tread is so that the right rear wheel will be in the furrow just plowed? The narrower the tire tread, the closer you want the plow to the preceding plowed furrow? Correct?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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