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  #1  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:54 PM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Location: Butler, PA.
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Default 1862 Foot Control

Foot Control Pedal on one of my 1862s.

1Foot Pedal.jpg

If the tractor wants to creep in neutral (brake pedal depressed), fix that problem prior to starting this project.

The hydro control cross shaft needs to come out. It’s much easier to get out if the handle is removed first. Plus the rivet holes are used to mount a bracket.

2 Cross shaft.jpg

Drill a ¼ inch hole as shown 1 inch above the existing hole on the other end of the cross shaft.

2a 100_1364.jpg

Cross shaft with bracket attached.

3 Cross shaft with bracket.jpg

Cross shaft re-installed. A grease fitting was added to help keep the original Hydro control linkage working smoothly. Less work for the return to neutral (RTN) spring to do.

4 Hydro Handel Extension Bracket.jpg

Outer bushing (1/2 inch bronze ID) for the foot pedal.

4a Outer Bushing for Foot Pedal.jpg

Inner bushing installed in the lift cylinder bracket.

4b Inner bushing.jpg

Pedal assembly.

4c Pedal.jpg

Collars position the pedal in the frame. The one on the right gets a bracket welded to it.

4d Foot pedal shaft.jpg

Pieces needed, less foot pedal.

5 Pieces used less Foot Pedal 100_1169.jpg

Inside collar with bracket welded on.

6 1862 EC_1300.jpg

Adjustable rod, transfers foot pedal motion to the cross shaft.

8 Hydro Lever Bracket and Adj Rod to Foot control bracket.jpg

Damper attached to bracket on foot pedal shaft.

9 Dampner 1862 EC _1302.jpg

Other end of the damper attached to the battery tray.

9a Dampner 1862 EC_1314.jpg

Cub Cadet 2185 RTN device and bracket.

11 2185 RTN and Bracket 100_1069.jpg

RTN bracket cut to fit under battery tray.

12 Neutral Bracket cut away 100_1147.jpg

Bracket attached to the left side of the tower, under the battery tray.

13 Neutral Bracket 100_1175.jpg

The opening for the hydro linkage to pass through the tower needs to be enlarged to clear the RTN heim joint. (Not necessary on my 1864.)

14 Clearancing Dash Panel 100_1132.jpg

RTN adjusting rod attached to the cross shaft. With the tractor in neutral (brake depressed) this rod should be adjusted so that the RTN is also in the neutral position as shown.

15 RTN adjustable link attached to cross shaft.jpg

Shows why the opening needed enlarged.

16 Hydrostat and RTN linkage.jpg

Ready to operate.

I have an 1864 I picked up last fall; I may try to figure out a way to change where the pedal assembly comes through the frame. Drilling a ¾ inch hole through the lift cylinder bracket is a pain.
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:29 PM
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gt383mag gt383mag is offline
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very cool setup thanks for sharing
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2015, 10:45 PM
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Shrewcub Shrewcub is offline
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Thanks for sharing, Ike! Excellent write-up again.
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  #4  
Old 02-26-2015, 09:41 AM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Your welcome guys.

Hope it is helpful.

Take care,

Ike
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2015, 09:52 AM
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garrynok garrynok is offline
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As others have said, great write up and documentation! Thanks for sharing.

Curious about the damper, what did it come off of and does it make a lot of difference?

I've got a 782 I want to convert this spring. You've given me lots of ideas between this write up and the one on your 1811. When I had my 782 apart I drilled the rivets out of the shift arm and made a bracket. I'm leaning on using a foot bracket like on your 1811, surface mounting a return to neutral just behind the rear fender, then a rod from the rtn, under the driveshaft cover to the bracket on the shift arm. I made a mockup while I had it apart. I just don't want to use a damper unless I have to.

Thanks again for the ideas!
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2015, 10:21 AM
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PGHsteelworker PGHsteelworker is offline
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I have to agree with everyone, nice job and write up.
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2015, 01:04 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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What they all said. I'd like to come up with a way to do that on a Super. Big problem is the extra brake peddles in the way.
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2015, 04:50 PM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garrynok View Post
As others have said, great write up and documentation! Thanks for sharing.

Curious about the damper, what did it come off of and does it make a lot of difference?

I've got a 782 I want to convert this spring. You've given me lots of ideas between this write up and the one on your 1811. When I had my 782 apart I drilled the rivets out of the shift arm and made a bracket. I'm leaning on using a foot bracket like on your 1811, surface mounting a return to neutral just behind the rear fender, then a rod from the rtn, under the driveshaft cover to the bracket on the shift arm. I made a mockup while I had it apart. I just don't want to use a damper unless I have to.

Thanks again for the ideas!
Garry,

The damper came off a 2185. I also got one off Rich Patton a few years ago. They are on most Tractors with a foot control. If you have smooth ground you may get away without one. Snug up the friction control a little. If your ground is on the rough side it can get your foot bouncing, resulting in a jerky ride.

I put a foot control on a 782 a few years ago with a pedal like on the 1862. Instead of a cable like on the 1811 ( https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=37377) I ran a shaft from the pedal behind the steering box, put a bracket on the end of the shaft with a rod up to a bracket on the shift arm similar to the one on the 1811.

3 Cross Shaft.jpg

4 Bracket on orig hand control shaft.jpg
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2015, 04:55 PM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGHsteelworker View Post
I have to agree with everyone, nice job and write up.
Thank you,

Ike
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  #10  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:03 PM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
What they all said. I'd like to come up with a way to do that on a Super. Big problem is the extra brake peddles in the way.
Sam,

Never had a super, so I don't know if the differential braking would be a big deal to me or not. My loss from what everyone has to say the supers are great.

Take care,

Ike
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