Iron rear for 1872?

[squatch]

My super has leaked from the pump/rear end since I got it. I've replaced the gasket between the 2 way too many times and can't actually find any other places that leak.

So add that to the way I beat up on this thing and I think I'd like to just build up an iron rear and a new pump for it.

With pushing snow and the hills I have more weight back there is a plus.

So what models am I looking at for the rear. I realize I'll have to do a gear swap. I remember that much from an old post here.

Anything else I need to be aware of?

[J-Mech]

Find and fix the leak, put a set of Sam Mac's braces on it and drive it. The weight difference on cast versus aluminum isn't enough to say it's heavier. It's not even enough difference that the operating weight changed. For example, an early 782's operating weight is listed the exact same as a 1711. If it's 12lbs I'd be surprised. No benefit to the mod, unless your going to put a backhoe on it, and need the strength. Waste of time and money IMHO. You must not be fixing the right leak, or there is a larger problem, or you just aren't doing it right. The gasket shouldn't fail that often.

[ACecil]

Squatch, the rear end in my 1872 came from a 149. You can use a NF or WF one. Just swap your pump and innards into the cast iron transmission.

[jmack]

Having recently torn down an aluminum unit, and prepping a cast unit, it's way heavier. I think I have the aluminum case out in the scrap pile somewhere. MattG's write up on his swap says it gained 50 pounds, which I would be inclined to believe, but I don't have anything more precise than that. If I come across it I'll scale both out so we can see exactly what it might be.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by squatch

My super has leaked from the pump/rear end since I got it. I've replaced the gasket between the 2 way too many times and can't actually find any other places that leak.

So add that to the way I beat up on this thing and I think I'd like to just build up an iron rear and a new pump for it.

With pushing snow and the hills I have more weight back there is a plus.

So what models am I looking at for the rear. I realize I'll have to do a gear swap. I remember that much from an old post here.

Anything else I need to be aware of?

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Find and fix the leak, put a set of Sam Mac's braces on it and drive it. The weight difference on cast versus aluminum isn't enough to say it's heavier. It's not even enough difference that the operating weight changed. For example, an early 782's operating weight is listed the exact same as a 1711. If it's 12lbs I'd be surprised. No benefit to the mod, unless your going to put a backhoe on it, and need the strength. Waste of time and money IMHO. You must not be fixing the right leak, or there is a larger problem, or you just aren't doing it right. The gasket shouldn't fail that often.

squatch

Something is wrong if you can't keep the cork gasket in place. If you want to do a cast iron rear go for it but as Jon mentioned the rear end brace is the hot setup to reduce the frame twist that breaks the aluminum rears and it also breaks the front mounts on the cast iron rears, ask me how I know. Xtreme is the place to get a set if you want to go that route. Yes I designed them, I also run them on all my stuff even the cast iron rear in my 149 (custom one of a kind design) anyway I don't have time to deal with the production and Aaron can produce a better quality product that I can so I entered into a deal with him to market them. If you buy a set thanks, I'll make a couple $$, if not I'm not going to starve.

Anyway that said Ken6X6 did a cast rear in one of his Supers, you may want to PM him about it.

[Oak]

Squatch, I'm with the others on the aluminum rears, they shouldn't give the problems your having unless something is broken or cracked.

Here ia a good post that Matt G did in 2010, say what you want about Matt, but he knew his stuff and I wish he would come back but I think he is onto other things now.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4309

[squatch]

Let me rephrase this a bit. Yes I have replaced that gasket several times and it never fixed the leak. Each time I went over both cases with a fine tooth comb and never found a thing. I have used stock gaskets, made my own from different materials, used sealer and not used sealer.

This was obviously going on long before I got the tractor. The level where it stops leaking is marked by the old oil stain on the dipstick. I suspect that somewhere there may be a small crack or something that I can't find. I'm thinking that this opens up when the case gets hot and then leaks.

So I figured if I was going to dig into it again I might as well just replace the rear with a heavier iron one. I'm kinda tired of fussing with this one.

Bottom line is I have never found the exact location of the leak. The mess always seems to originate from between the units. It's not a big enough leak to clean then start and find it. By the time I do look there is a filthy mess.

Just looking at options.

My case bolts to frame are tight and intact.

[Sam Mac]

I wonder if the trunnion shaft seals on your pump are leaking. They were on my 2182 and it looked like it was the cork gasket because of the way it ran down between the pump and the tranny. then the fan blows the oil all over the place.

[squatch]

That's about the only dry place on the case! The level it (oil level) drops to is about at the top of the driven shaft between the pump and axle housing.

[ken6x6]

lets get one thing straight, the weight difference is huge between the two. i was able to carry the aluminum rear with the pump on to my workbench with out to much trouble. i was not able to even pick up the iron rear (with pump). i did weigh the iron rear with pump and it came out to 170lbs. 10lbs more than me.

in my case the iron was a must. i wasn't to comfortable having a 500lb backhoe hanging off the back being supported by aluminum. 500lbs just sitting there is one thing, now add bumps and all the forces a backhoe puts out. that 500lbs gets multiplied big time.

i will say Sam did a great job designing braces for the aluminum rears and i haven,t heard of anyone breaking the ears off with them. so props to him. so you could go that route. but you cant go wrong with the cast for weight, solid reliability, and good ol' IH build iron.