1450 Power Steering on a Budget

[Rescue11]

After a long list of issues, with my 1450, I have pulled the engine to replace the motor mounts, have the head heli coiled and rebuild the steering box. After looking at the rebuild kits, I determined that 125.00 could be better put to use for power steering. Using my 1864 and DX 22e has spoiled me, not that I need it by any means, but its an excuse to play with metal, hydraulics, and my cub.

I wanted to make this project as affordable and quick as possible. I'm going to try and keep it around 250.00 for the actual parts, but who knows, it could cost a thousand before its all said and done. Here are a list of objectives.

1. Fully functioning and tighter steering (end stop to end stop)
2. Does not interfere with attachments, i.e. mower, snow blower, saddle tanks.
3. Factory appeal, does not take away from looks of tractor
4. Wallet friendly

So far I am 1/3 through the project. The first hurdle was location of the steering cylinder (A QL hyd. lift cylinder). After pondering I located it between the frame rails under the tractor at approximately the same angle as the drag link from the axle to the steering box. I am mounting the cylinder ridged to the frame, and using an inline ball joint to attach the cylinder rod to the drag link.

I built the main cylinder bracket at an angle that catches both the RH frame rail and the 3/4" rod under the foot rests. I have ample room for hyd. filter replacement and room for the cooling fan (getting replaced). Only concern is the sub frame leveling arm from mower deck interfering with the bracket. Ill cross that bridge later.

Next I built an adapter plate for the 1/2" tie rod end that mounts to the spindle bracket. This little adapter merely places the tie rod in the same height position in relation to the axle as the smaller 3/8" tie rod end. It uses the existing tie rod 3/8" hole plus one additional 3/8" hole. Depending on how it all works out I may have to gusset the spindle bracket.

I hate drilling holes in original Cub iron, but I have only drilled 2, and do not plan to drill any more, let alone ones inhibiting future replacement of the original controls.

Currently I am waiting on the power steering column, and inline ball joint to show up before it can advance. To date, I have spent $198.25 on parts, and used scrap pieces of steel laying around the shop. The lift cylinder was one I had, and I'm using the original front axle, spindles, etc...

[Rescue11]

just realized this needs to be under customized cub cadets. sorry to the people

[ACecil]

Looking forward to seeing you finish this project.

[yeeter]

Will be watching with great interest. Thanks for sharing the progress.

[Rescue11]

The power steering column showed up today. Its slightly different from what I thought it would be. Im thinking that i will have to marry it with the old cub column shaft to get the right height and placement. Will have updates as i go.

[snoel]

I like the approach. Keep it looking factory, and utilize as many "leftovers" as possible, to keep the cost reasonable.

[Rescue11]

Had a chance to work on the cub today. Removed the steering wheel, which was a challenge. Got the old column out and hydraulic spool valve removed. Set the new psc and started figuring out how to mount the psc and dual scv to the tractor. The new psc sits out a little further towards the engine forcing the scv out. Im going to have to extend the scv lever arms so they will match up like they should. The way it worked out, the steering wheel is extended about an inch which makes it more comfortable when sitting in the seat.

Pictures later since i cannot up load from my phone

[Rescue11]

As promised, here are some pictures, starting with the Steering wheel removal process. I checked out a few ways to remove it, I wasn't having much luck, so I added my own spin to it. Notice the Come-along attached to the piece of 10 AWG THHN that I delicately wrapped around the steering wheel. I tried the air chisel and leg lift, but no luck. I came up with this idea.

Reason for the rear end up in the air is to some what make up for the angle that the column protrudes through the dash. I wanted fairly even pressure on the wheel while I tried to free it. I tried the chisel again, no luck. Went to Lewis Imp and got a nut and bolt. With enough tension on the steering wheel from the come-along to raise the front wheels COMPLETELY off the ground, a few good whacks with the hammer and off she came!

DISCLAIMER. The steering wheel I have is cracked and I have no use for the column. That being said, I was not going to be upset if either one were broke due to my removal methods!

[ACecil]

Thanks for the update and pics.

[yeeter]

The one attempt I made at a steering wheel removal, was not successful.

But I didnt try this method.