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#1
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I'm trying to redo some of the PO's handy work. Where can I get just the factory style connectors and terminals? Nothing major is wrong with my wiring just a couple of hokie splices that I would like to put the factory style terminals back on it. From what I gather they are Molex connectors. I know I can by replacement harnesses off ebay but I only need to fix a couple random spots.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. |
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#2
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You may be able to buy single quantities at NAPA.
They are called Packard 56 style connectors. You will need an UNINSULATED style terminal crimper to do the brass terminals properly. The best deal I have found on a ratcheting terminal crimper for Packard 56 crimps costs about $30. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Cavity-Pac...d717c7&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Gauge-Pac...8e05d7&vxp=mtr For top notch quality wire - use marine (tinned) wire. I have used Greg's Marine for years and the wire and color selection have always been first rate. http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-AWG-Tinne...item51a184be9e
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If you do not learn something new every day ... you are not paying attention ! |
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#3
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save_old_iron,
That is fantastic! Exactly what i needed! Thanks for taking the time for such a great reply. Now I just have to find a crimper that will do both male and female terminals. My terminals are plain brass. I'm assuming the ebay terminals are just coated brass
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. |
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#4
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Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#5
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Here is an additional source for the Packard Series 56 style connectors.... http://crimpsupply.com/packard-delph...Fa5DMgodWhwA-w
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#6
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Quote:
Brass is the base material the terminals are stamped from. The tin plated brass are a more durable connection, but about 2 times the price of brass. If you just need a few simple wires made up, I have wire and terminals laying around after a project that required I redo a few wiring harnesses. I would be happy to zip together a few assemblies and save you the investing more $$ then the repairs are worth (the crimpers are going to be the high ticker item here). Of course, if you think you will someday redo the entire harness or have other tractors to repair and wish to learn this phase of the hobby, follow the links I gave.
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If you do not learn something new every day ... you are not paying attention ! |
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#7
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Here is another link showing the "jaw" profile you will require for the uninsulated terminals. This is not a unique crimper but is it not to common to find them at the automotive parts stores. What you see in the stores is usually for the connectors already covered in a nylon or PVC jacket.
http://vespasmallframeforum.proboards.com/thread/12399 Note the "m" shape of one of the jaws and the shallow "U" shape of the opposing jaw. The "u" shape cradles the bottom of the terminal while the "m" shape bends the two ears of the terminal into a nice symmetrical crimp around the conductors of the wire. Without this symmetry, the terminals can sometimes have a hard time fitting properly in the plastic connector shells. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RATCHETING-C...item58a0902783 will get you a tool that will work for around $30. It pains me to say this but if must have a made in USA version, prepare to spend 4 to 5 times that money. If you choose to go the route of redoing the whole harness, consider removing the old harness and "stretching it out" on a spare piece of plywood. Ends of the cables can be secured by any convenient fasteners while you measure and substitute new wiring for the old onto the plywood template. You can then bind up all the wires in the proper places and have a brand new custom fit replacement harness for the tractor
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If you do not learn something new every day ... you are not paying attention ! |
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#8
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Here is another source
www.delcity.net I have been buying all my wire and electrical supplies from for years Their catalog is fantastic at over 300 pages and the shipping is lightning fast. Dave S |
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#9
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Iron, thanks for the offer. the work i need to do is on my main harness. i have an original thats had alot of "repairs" done to it too. i think i will just get a harness for that one! so on some of these forums ive been looking at wiring on are saying alot of crimpers have problems doing the male terminal. it is thicker and sometimes has guide wings in the back that i guess the crimper gets in the way. looking at all this stuff i have really messed up some crimps when i was a teenager! some of these tools have like 5 cavities and the delphi tool has like only 2. they both roughly have the same range. alot of the old gm forums swear by the delphi tool. that thing is like $100. i see some tools do both crimps at the same time. i think i may like to do them separate as i see alot of variance in insulation thickness. what gauge is the majority of the wires on these cubs?
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. |
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#10
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I like that harness board, very good idea
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