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Old 05-19-2012, 10:44 PM
john hall john hall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 271
Default servicing the 2072

I pulled my 2072 in the shop for a good servicing today. Changed the engine oil and filter as well as the hydro filter. Also greased the whole machine and sharpened the blades. I took the advice to check the rear end bolts and found 2 of the ones where the frame bolts to the axle housing were a little loose. I also found 2 of the ones where the bracket that connects the hydro unit to the frame were loose. I checked the fuel pump and found it was loose--this has happened before. When I pulled the sheet metal over the muffler and over the left head to access the pump I decided it was time to pressure wash all the grime off the engine block. One other thing I found was a fair amount of oil in the air filter. Been noticing it for a while, I assume there is just too much blow-by. Hopefully this coming winter I'll have time to pull the engine and rebuild it and (dare I say) repaint the tractor.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:48 PM
Mcamp Mcamp is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 140

John, the oil in the air filter is probably the valve breather assembly, not blow by.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:13 PM
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dsmithjr dsmithjr is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Somerset, Kentucky
Posts: 652

John, I have my 2072 torn down for a rebuild right now. Its a pretty straight forward tear down. Looking forward to seeing your rebuild.
Don Smith
IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch
CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO
Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow
Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators
Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:22 PM
john hall john hall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 271

I wondered about the breather, I'll have to look into it. I need to go ahead and order a service manual for the engine as well.

As far as rebuilding it, we've already taken care of the deck and mule drive. Changed the plates on the side of the transmission that the springs go in and that the linkage hooks to last year. Rebuilt the driveline at the same time. Going to pick up some wheel bearings real soon. I need to replace the ball ends on the steering cylinder, but I want to see if I can get a better deal than the $50 Cadet charges for them. This winter I'll probably rebuild the front axle as well.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:54 AM
123Pokey321 123Pokey321 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 33

Hi John,
I just replaced the ball ends on my power steering cylinder with ones from McMaster Carr. I got the ones with the grease fitting and then added these rod end seals to help keep the dirt and grit out. One thing I found during the install was that the bolt which mounts the cylinder to the tractor frame was a little short after adding the seals so I needed to get a longer bolt. Overall they are working great and the new rod ends eliminated a lot of the slop from the steering.
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:30 PM
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inspectorudy inspectorudy is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 597

Thanks Pokey. I had replaced all of my ball joints when I up graded to power steering but didn't see the seals until you passed the link for them. I too used M-C and was very pleased with there service and quality not to mention their prices compared to the dreaded CC parts prices. I also bought the grease fitting models and have been pleased with the ease of greasing them.
1811 Hydro
"Failing to prepare is preparing to fail".
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:08 PM
john hall john hall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 271

Mcmaster is where I planned on looking for the ball ends, glad to know they carry them. Thanks as well for the heads up on the seals.
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