Kohler oil?

[cmatthew]

The manual says to use quality detergent oil. This 12hp Kohler has no filter, and I was under the assumption that detergent oil along with keeping the sludge build-up off the engine inside surfaces, it also kept this sludge and dirt suspended for better pick up by the filter. Wouldnt it be better to use non-detergent oil which allows the sludge to fall to the pan? I could be way off base here!!

[CADplans]

This debate is as old as the dirt in the oil!!

You are correct in your assumption about oil.

The guy that thinks the opposite must be correct also, as the discussion will go both directions.

Personally, I use 30WT HD Rotella, and change it at 10 hours.

I change it at 15-20 hrs with a filter.

Oil is cheap, engines ain't.

[Vince_o]

CAD's right about the debate. And while I'm hear, I'll pick fords too.

We used up till this year nothing but Kohler oil in the shop. The oil for small engines is designed for a higher temp. In other words has more zink in it to cool the cylinder walls. If you look in the book it does say detergent oil.

I know that the Kohler Mag and K series oil should be run in those engine, OR EQUIVALENT. As far as the commands with hydro lifters, 10-30.


The 30 wt for cars won't hold up as well in the air cooled engines. The air cooled engines will run about 300 deg at a plow day or running over about 85 to 90% duty mowing.

[cmatthew]

k, so for the few years i have had it, i have run 30wt non-detergent that i was getting at the car parts house. i have decided to start using 30wt detergent oil for small engines. what are your thoughts? i have heard some say that it will start to bust up all that sludge and and send it through the bearings and what not, and ruin it. i also heard this is BS. ????

[Vince_o]

I use a magnetic oil plug from Kirk Engines. Really works great! I have them in all my engines and I even use one in my Volvo car. I don't get much fines off the car, guessing cause it has a filter on it, but you get a good bit in the cub engines. I don't get much off the mag 18 I just built, here again filter? Don't know.

I'm running Cub Cadet low ash oil in my 106. In my welder, I have Kohler 10 30 and in my mag 18' and 20's I have Kawasaki 30, my flat head Briggs and Tecumseh's the same 30 wt I'm a believer that oil is oil, its what they add to it that makes the difference. And no I don't use Hytran in my hydros, not to get off the subject, just sayin that its the same oil, all in the additives.

Another way to look a it. Diesel fuel. We now have high sulfur, helps cool the cylinder walls, regular diesel, for use on road before 2011 trucks, and ultra low sulfur for new ones. Lower sulfur more additives to try and cool the cylinder walls. If you have a mechanical engine in an old farm tractor, I wouldn't use it.

[Matt G.]

If you're that concerned about sludge, drop the oil pan and clean out any sludge that may be there. No more sludge...

[cmatthew]

this will soon be done. pulling the engine. 10 over piston, rings, and bore. possibly a new crank shaft and connecting rod. from the knock i am hearing at TDC. dont know if this thing has balancing gears. they will go if it does. among many other things once she is torn apart.

[ole 147]

I didn't see any remarks on the LA in the mix, or did I miss something.
So we are to use 30 wt high detergent low ash oil, that is made for air cooled engines.

[ole 147]

Just because you believe it, is not a sure thing to be fact.

Originally Posted by Vince_o

I use a magnetic oil plug from Kirk Engines. Really works great! I have them in all my engines and I even use one in my Volvo car. I don't get much fines off the car, guessing cause it has a filter on it, but you get a good bit in the cub engines. I don't get much off the mag 18 I just built, here again filter? Don't know.

I'm running Cub Cadet low ash oil in my 106. In my welder, I have Kohler 10 30 and in my mag 18' and 20's I have Kawasaki 30, my flat head Briggs and Tecumseh's the same 30 wt I'm a believer that oil is oil, its what they add to it that makes the difference. And no I don't use Hytran in my hydros, not to get off the subject, just sayin that its the same oil, all in the additives.

Another way to look a it. Diesel fuel. We now have high sulfur, helps cool the cylinder walls, regular diesel, for use on road before 2011 trucks, and ultra low sulfur for new ones. Lower sulfur more additives to try and cool the cylinder walls. If you have a mechanical engine in an old farm tractor, I wouldn't use it.

[CC129]

When I owned an air cooled VW , it was recommended to run detergent oil 30 wt.
I was also told not to mix the two; don't use detergent one oil change and ND the next. Once you choose one, stay with it. When you do a switch; do a oil change in half the time you normally would.
With that said, I'm running ND wolfs head in mine because it's cheaper than the rest.
oil isn't cheap, Engines are not cheap either but oil here is 5 bucks a quart! that isn't cheap to me. Definitely not cheap enough to do a change every 10 hours of engine use.
yes I am cheap or frugal whatever you decide. (of course my engine is tired and needs rebuilt so putting good expensive oil in it for it to burn up isn't going to happen either)