1541 Repower

[Frank1541]

My project time line just got moved up. My old Magnum 18 ate the governor gear this week. The Magnums run really smooth at high RPM!! That is what tipped me off to the problem. Too bad, I finally had it dialed in with a #26 carb on it.

I have a Kohler ECH680 on order for it. This is the Cub specific EFI engine, so I will not have to mess with the PTO shaft. I got the EFI engine because I plan on keeping this thing running for at least 10 more years. I do not want to mess with the carb and reformulated gas. Plus it is kind of cool.

The Magnum comes out today and I hope to start the new motor installation next week. I will take pictures along the way and post them along with commentary. I have most of the parts needed to do the switch. I still need the muffler and the modification to it for the oxygen sensor.

I will also be doing any work needed on other parts of the tractor while it is apart. This should be a fun journey.

John

[Sam Mac]

Frank

Sounds like a very cool re-power. On the 1882 that I re-powered with a CH22 I had to get a longer driveshaft and the only place I could find a muffler that would fit was from Cub. The upper heat shield is a NLA item so I had my welder make one and also had him make a spare so I can help you on that item.

[Frank1541]

Sam,

Thanks for the offer. I must have got the last used upper shield when I bought it over the winter. I hope that an 1864 shaft will work. There seems to be several of them around at decent prices. I decided to wait until I have the motor in the tractor, confirm the length and then get one.

John

[Sam Mac]

Frank

The shaft from an 1864 should be what you need. I used one for a 2284 in the 1882. If you can borrow a motor plate for an 1864 you can bolt it to your motor plate and just drill the new bolt holes for the new engine or pick up a used one from Patton. He probably also has a drive shaft. Who are you getting the engine from? Holler if you have any questions.

[Frank1541]

I have the tractor 90% apart. I might as well look at everything now.

How much play is OK for the controls on the hydro? I can wiggle all the plates at least an eighth of an inch side to side. I don't want to spend over a hundred dollars on fixing this if it is not needed.

Should I rebuild the hydro lift cylinder as long as I have everything apart? The lift was acting kind of funny the last time I cut the grass. I do have the hydro lift valve rebuild kit, so I will rebuild that.

[Sam Mac]

One thing I would do while the engine is out is clean and repack the CV joint for the steering and the CV joints for the drive shaft. Not sure if you can rebuild the lift cylinder.

[Frank1541]

I have made some progress on the project. I have removed just about everything from the frame. I figured that I should rebuild everything that needs it. I have new brake pad material on order from McMaster. I will rebuild the older of the two hydro valves and the implement lift. The rebuild kit for the lift is not available, but I figure that the parts are all standard hydro stuff, so I am sure I can get it back together. I have all the CV joints apart, all the parts are OK.

I took the controls apart for the hydro transmission. I got new tie rod ends since both were shot. I am still debating the need to replace the cam pivot bracket. The hole for the cam control plate is pretty worn.

I think I have the wiring harness rebuild complete. The EFI engine needs power while the starter is engaged. The Magnum does not need this. I just installed I diode between the starter line and power line to the engine, similar to a 2182. The newer EFI engines use an engine kill line that stops the engine when grounded. This allowed me to use the magneto kill line as is. I did remove the light switch from the key switch and moved it to and old fashioned push / pull switch which will be mounted where the choke cable was mounted. (No choke on the EFI engine).

I have all the parts I need except the muffler which is on order. I will need to have the oxygen sensor bung welded into it. I am still waiting for the motor itself. I ordered it from OPEengines. Kohler said it would take up to 15 days to produce. They are at 20 days right now. I was told that Kohler has never produced this particular engine before. It was specified for Cub Cadet but never ordered by them. I wish they would hurry up, I am cutting two acres by hand.

I am not sure what to do with the old engine. It was running strong until the governor went. Anyone looking for a rebuild project? I'll probably take it apart for fun and sell the starter, alternator, old PTO and the #26 carb.

I'll post pictures when I start putting it back together.

[Sam Mac]

Sounds like it will be about as close to new as you can get when your done with it. Looking forward to seeing pics of the new engine and the install.

[Frank1541]

Sam,

Do you have any pictures from your engine project that shows how you mounted the battery when you cut the tray? I will finally pick up the engine next late next week and start the rebuild process. Here are some pictures of the beast stripped down. Plus some of the wiring changes. I had to add a diode to the starter to provide power the the EFI circuit while the starter is engaged. Plus a diode on the PTO so the coil does not shoot voltage back down the positive line when the field collapses. Finally I added a diode to the positive side of instrument light number one. This was done on later cyclops cubs, so I decided to do it as long as I had it apart. I took the main voltage supply line from the left side and moved it to the right where it will attach on the new motor. I did this for the oil pressure sensor and magneto kill line as well. Just for fun I replaced the instrument and tail light bulbs with LED's. I have the new brake pads installed, they are 1/4 of an inch.

Diode starter.JPG

PTO Diode.JPG

Wiring Center.JPG

Brakes.JPG

[Sam Mac]

Frank

All I had to do with the Batt support was to shorten it about 3/8". The front of it was just a little too close to the air cleaner. Where did you get the brake pads?